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One step closer to being a Hatteras owner

  • Thread starter Thread starter Modman
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Modman

Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2011
Messages
30
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
52' CONVERTIBLE (1983 - 1990)
After searching, researching, and asking all you experts here for advice, I finally have a Hatteras under contract and just had the surveys (both hull and engine) done.

The boat is a 1989 52C. Survey went really well. Biggest item found was a slightly leaking AC raw water intake hose and a couple of light fixtures that we could not get to work. Most of the major systems had been updated (pumps, batt charger, H/W heater). All systems, both old and new, operated fine. When the boat was hauled the Surveyor was amazed to find only about 6 dime sized blisters.

Engines checked out good with a couple of oil leaks to watch but nothing major. 8V92TA's both ran up to 2600 rpm no load and about 2350 WOT underway. Little bit of smoke on throttle up for about a second or two but cleared right away. Engine guy thinks there is too much oil in the engines and although the oil looks new, suggested I change the oil just to make sure. Also, the fuel in the Dahl filters looked cloudy. There were various opinions of all on board on what to do about it. This varied from "just use it up, the engines are running great" to "pump into a bunch of 5 gallon containers and burn it your home furnace" to "you can use it but make sure you have a lot spare filters until you get new fuel in there".

So I guess my first two questions are:
1. What is the proper amount of Oil these take with a filter change?
2. I forgot to get the exact fuel filter model but they are dual DAHL assemblies, model 200 I think. Can anyone who has a similar arrangement confirm that and also let me know what the proper replacement cartridge P/N is?

So overall the boat surveyed real well.

For anyone interested, I used some recommendations that you all gave me and used Phil Gaudreau for the survey and Jim Mango to look at the engines. Both great. Highly recommended.



boat.webp
 
Congratulations and welcome. That's a great looking boat. I'd strongly suggest having the front of the house painted back to white. That black mask will get hot enough to burn you and the amount of heat it will draw to the cabin is huge. The cloudy fuel can be from several things. If you can burn it off before refueling that would be good but make sure you monitor your filters. You'll know pretty quickly if your fouling the filters. If you start to see smoke while running and or start losing RPMs then your probably fouling the filters. Cloudy fuel can be from too much additive so try not to treat it unless you know what the cause is. Is it cloudy after running or does the fuel look cloudy all the time? If the oil is clean and was recently changed, you can just draw some out if you are overfilled. Not sure what the capacity is since they do vary based on the installation and accessories. Should be around 6 gls but others with the same boat should be able to give you a better answer.
 
Beautiful boat--congratulations!

DAN
 
The surveyor and I were thinking the same thing about the black paint on the front. Although it did not look bad, it was getting hot even in the partial sun and you could see where the heat hat cracked the gelcoat over the years. It's on the list.
 
What speeds did you get at cruise and WOT?
 
Cruised at 19.5 knots at about 1925 rpm
WOT was 25.9 at 2325rpm (might have been 24.9...too many numbers in my head right now).
 
We just closed on a 91' 52 convertible our survey numbers were the same. We are going to change the Dahl filters to Racor or Fleetguard style spin on filters. Regarding your existing fuel you could get the fuel filtered and polished. Congrats on your boat it really looks good.
 
Congratulations and welcome to the club.

If the Dahls are Model 200s the filter P/N is 201.
 
I see three choices for filter elements. 2, 10, and 30 microns. Which flavor?
 
Unless you have fuel issues the 2s are the most common. I'd try them first, if you find them getting restricted too soon switch to the 10s. Offhand I don't know anybody that uses the 30s.
 
Does anyone think 2600rpm no load is a touch to high? 2400 is I think the most I got out of my 892's. 2350 with load.

Chris
Superior Nights
 
Does anyone think 2600rpm no load is a touch to high? 2400 is I think the most I got out of my 892's. 2350 with load.

Chris
Superior Nights
I believe 2500 is factory spec. I've also heard they should be 200 over full load rpm. I was told +/-50rpms is fine. My 6V92TAs hit 2500 when tested after the rebuild. My 12V92TAs hit 2510 and 2525 when we surveyed them. After the starboard engine had a new governor installed she hit 2520 no load.
 
Depending on how the RPM was determined, it could easily be 50-100 RPM error at max speed. If it was an oem-type tachometer or any typical replacement, including a digital tach, I wouldn't consider it "accurate" unless it was calibrated/checked against a photo-tach.
 
I would hope the surveyor used a photo tach. You should have observed readings from your tachs and the actual photo tach readings.
 
I was looking at the tach on the helm. I think later we determined it was off by about 60RPM. That would make it 2540 as best we could determine.
 
oh..and they did photo tach it. I just don't have a copy of the report yet.
 

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