Oil Cooler Line

[dottieshusband]

I'm waiting on parts on the genny project and using the down time to replace a leaking transmission oil cooler line. I've got MG514c's going to 12v71ti's. I need to crack this fitting, but I'm unfamiliar with it. The nuts are 1.5 inches and the wrenches are 24 inches.. so I can do so damage easily. Anybody separate this fitting before? Insight is appreciated.

 

[JoshuaHall]

It looks like a standard flare fitting, with a swivel type female, connected to a flare to npt adapter. Put a back up on the hex of the adapter. The hose will come off to reveal the male side of that flare to pipe thread adapter.

 

[rustybucket]

Although I don't like using channel locks for hose fittings sometimes that is all you can get in there with. Also on some of them a crows foot will work.

Once you break it free it will almost come out the rest of the way with fingers. Sometimes you need something big for the initial break and something smaller to actually unthread it.

JoshuaHall is right, get something on the close nipple and then the flare female swivel.

 

[dottieshusband]

So, hold fast the painted nut on the right, and unscrew the stainless fitting to it's left?

 

[rsmith]

I'm waiting on parts on the genny project and using the down time to replace a leaking transmission oil cooler line. I've got MG514c's going to 12v71ti's. I need to crack this fitting, but I'm unfamiliar with it. The nuts are 1.5 inches and the wrenches are 24 inches.. so I can do so damage easily. Anybody separate this fitting before? Insight is appreciated.

You sure it’s 1-1/2? Doesn’t look that big. As already stated it’s a STD hydraulic fitting. Nobody doe it but you should hold the back nut and loosen the front swivel nut to keep from scoring the flare on the stationary fitting.

 

[rsmith]

So, hold fast the painted nut on the right, and unscrew the stainless fitting to it's left?

That not the pic of what you have

 

[oscarvan]

Let me try to assist.....

Hold A turn B. If C wants to turn, hold that too.

THIS WAS EDITED.... Although my initial answer (Hold C turn B) works, it was pointed out to me that the above is more correct....

 

[bigbill]

best i can tell, oscar is correct. the nut to the far left is to screw the fitting into the hose

 

[scottinsydney]

Hi Paul,

Are you going to replace all four (i think) hoses? Every time I view my engines and gears I look at these old hoses. The physically most difficult to replace would be the gearbox sump hose, which will require the oil to be drained.

 

[dottieshusband]

Thanks for the marked pic. It's definitely 1 1/2 inch. With a wrench this big, it's easy to torque something to death. I thought it was a mandrel type, like my fuel lines, but hadn't seen a swivel on any of the boat lines till now. The line is leaking at the cuff, not much, but time to go.

 

[dottieshusband]

Hi Paul,

Are you going to replace all four (i think) hoses? Every time I view my engines and gears I look at these old hoses. The physically most difficult to replace would be the gearbox sump hose, which will require the oil to be drained.

Just replacing the leaking hose. I don't have a sump hose, and use a dipstick draw to change oil... 6+ gallons.

 

[rsmith]

Let me try to assist.....

If I'm correct it's HOLD-C, TURN-B

B will swivel in A

If not, the pic will let someone set me straight.

Technically you should hold A so the hose doesn’t twist and the flare isn’t scored. According to Parker most leaks are caused by improper tightening of the fittings. The flares should be drawn together with no turning or twisting as it’s drawn up which would cause scores on the mating flares.

 

[oscarvan]

Technically you should hold A so the hose doesn’t twist and the flare isn’t scored. According to Parker most leaks are caused by improper tightening of the fittings. The flares should be drawn together with no turning or twisting as it’s drawn up which would cause scores on the mating flares.

OK, I can buy that. If you hold A and turn B (Can't turn C) you indeed will keep the hose from twisting.

But the flare WILL be moving against its seat (A and B will be rotating in relation to each other, don't see any other way to do it as you certainly aren't turning C) ...... So I'm not understanding the "flare isn't scored" part....

 

[Boatsb]

A is the male fitting, B is the female. They need to be unthreaded from each other. B should turn freely at the joint with C. C may need to be held to get the rotation from the hose. Paint and rust can lock that joint up.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

That big stuff can take more than enough torque to un-score itself. Never had one fail over decades of farm, hvy equipment or boat hose changes.

 

[oscarvan]

That big stuff can take more than enough torque to un-score itself. Never had one fail over decades of farm, hvy equipment or boat hose changes.

Don't disagree with that, my results are the same... but always willing to learn more background. Aside from that, this is not a high pressure application like a hydraulic system.

 

[Dazed338]

Technically you should hold A so the hose doesn’t twist and the flare isn’t scored. According to Parker most leaks are caused by improper tightening of the fittings. The flares should be drawn together with no turning or twisting as it’s drawn up which would cause scores on the mating flares.

Paint might be what holds it, Add to the Hold A, loosen B, you might have to hold C if it wants to turn. Think old GM fuel filters at the carb, more often then not the filter turns 1st, twisting a steel line. Like others said once broken loose should be able to finish by hand.

 

[rsmith]

OK, I can buy that. If you hold A and turn B (Can't turn C) you indeed will keep the hose from twisting.

But the flare WILL be moving against its seat (A and B will be rotating in relation to each other, don't see any other way to do it as you certainly aren't turning C) ...... So I'm not understanding the "flare isn't scored" part....

A and C are the mating surfaces that make the seal C is just the nut that puts pressure on the flares.

 

[oscarvan]

A and C are the mating surfaces that make the seal C is just the nut that puts pressure on the flares.

Doh! I knew that. Always weird talking about it on line versus having it in your hands. Thanks for clearing that up.