oil change unit

[nyrussell]

Hi All,

Looking for an oil change unit as the PO removed the old one and never bothered to replace it.

Thanks in advance,

Noel

 

[SKYCHENEY]

You are probably 12v, but I noticed a 32v oil change pump on Ebay tonight. Maybe someone could use it.

 

[nyrussell]

yes, i am 12 volt

Noel

 

[Liquid Asset]

Sky, do you have an auction #, I am looking for a pump.

 

[Capt K]

Years ago, I bought a Jabsco 12v pump and wired it with alligator clips. I use two hoses with regular hose fittings and drain the oil into 5 gal pails for disposal. I keep the whole thing in a milk crate and only bring it onboard when needed. My oil pans are fitted with hoses to draw from.

Less convenient than a built in system, but much less expensive and not bad for the limited use it gets.

K

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Yeah-- my 32V reverso needs a jabsco impeller thats no longer available.There are 3 on my boat- oil change and 2 Fuel transfer pumps. I plan on putting a hydraulic pump and 110V motor in its place for some real humpity pumpity. I have an unused aux fuel wing tank (150 gallon) that I will use for bulk storage and call a waste oil truck when its full. NO MORE MESS !! ws

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Sky, do you have an auction #, I am looking for a pump.

I don't have the auction #, but I found it by doing a search for either "32 volt" or "32v". I'm not sure which one since I periodically search both. You just never know what you might find there.

 

[Jaxfishgyd]

I have the 12v Jabsco pump that came with a 5 gal bucket... It's a total PIA as you cannot get all the oil out. But I gave up on the "draining all the oil out" routine and instead of changing every 100 hrs I now do it every 50-60 hrs. I get just get out what I can.(I figure I get just over half of it) I do change filters ever second time as they too are a MAJOR PIA what with being mounted sideways...

 

[Fanfare]

When I re-engined around 1993 and went from naturals to turbos I installed a device called a pre-luber. It's a 12v pump with a timer that comes on with the ignition, pressurizes the oil system and turbos to 40 psi and cuts off. At shut-down the timer can be set for varying times (I use about one minute) to come on at ignition shut-down to pressurise the turbos as they spool down. There is one unit on each engine, and I even put one on the generator which does not have a turbo. Why?--because it also functions as a oil change pump. And I figure it can only help to have all the bearings fully charged at startup. I have to change the generator oil more that the engine oil. 100 hours comes up faster when running 24 hrs a day, plus the Detroits contain much more oil volume as a buffer than my old Onan. I have had pretty good luck with the Preluber. One motor burned out after about four years and I had to buy another, but no other problems. It does not add oil into the system as some other devices are said to do, still have to do this manually, but getting the old oil out is usually the big (and messy) problem.

Preluber included a quick-disconnect fitting for dumping the old oil. I decided to use this only on the generator and not on the main engines. Putting anything like this fitting in an oil line is a weak link that could fail. The Detroits are just too expensive for this. Nor do they have the low oil pressure stop switch that the generator has. I have to unbolt a fitting on each of these for changing the oil. Again, I only have to do this once a season for the mains versus weekly on the generator.

I found lots of info by googling "preluber" so give it a try.

 

[rmaher]

I'm considering putting a brass tee at the block inlet for the oil pressure sender/hobbs switch, adding a ball valve and using the existing oil change pump on my 43MY to prelube the engines. Anyone have any thoughts on the pros or cons to this?

Rob

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Pre-lube is a great idea. Use the onboard DC pump for that. For changing, I just bought a 110vac 1/2hp (1750rpm) motor with a hydraulic "gear" pump attached. I changed the Allison MH20s 40w oil (cold) in about 10 minutes. Anything dockside, I recomend using shorepower. The gear type pumps cannot be beat. It was $35 on ebay. It uses 3/8 tubing in and 1/4 out. Nylon tubing is rigid so it wont collapse. The dipstick tube unscrews (1/2 pipe) with a 1-1/16 wrench and you can douche the heck out of the sump. VOILA!! Next project is to tie all ports to the unit for filling, draining, and PRIMING. Those reverso pumps are toys!! ws sorry, no pics

 

[yachtsmanbill]

OOH OOH -- forget the brass Ts and brass piping !! ABSOLUTELY prone to cracking from vibration. ALWAYS us steel on diesel engines for fuel and lube oil!!
Look at the OEM stuff. ws

 

[REBrueckner]

You can make a "built in" oil changer via a 12 volt reversible vane pump from many marine suppliers and some 1/2" copper tubing/elbows and valves from Home cheapo for the manifold. Just mount it all on a square of painted plywood at 1/3 the cost of a manufacted change pump. I installed a five gallon pail benath my engine room floor. The month before an oil change I let my engine oil go down a few quarts to a gallon...so one engine of oil fits in a 5 gal pail.

Defender Industries (online) sells the preluber and I once got a quote from them for JUST the pump...no bells,whistles,timers,etc...it was a lot less expensive. This could be especially useful for those who cruise year round or have many annual starts. You don't really need it for engine shut down unless you go from cruise to off immediately....entering harbors, slips, anchoring,etc is plenty of time for the turbo to stop...

I have four inlets, valve selected: one for each main, one for the genny, and a length of hose for when I do the transmissions...they have big oil fills so a hose fits in easily...An engine empties in a minute or two...A hose loop (up)near the genny prevents an oil loss just in case the hose thru the engine room is cut or leaks.