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No zincs on NL Genny?

  • Thread starter Thread starter MikeP
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MikeP

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Today was my NL M844K 16KW generator "clean the heat exchanger"/change the oil/change the coolant day. Since I have never cleaned the HE or changed the coolant since we bought the boat, I decided it was overdue. NL says the HE should be cleaned annually and we have owned the boat 6 years...;) There was no indication temperature-wise of any sort of problem. I pulled it and found it wasn't noticeably clogged at all but I rodded it and soaked it in vinegar anyway. Not sure why the main eng HEs seem to get clogged much faster...

But what I find interesting is that there are no zincs on the genny and no mention of them in the NL marine service manual. Apparently, NL does not think they are necessary.
 
I don't put any pencil zincs in anything that I own. they cause more problems than they prevent.

Most of my customers still want the pencils, so I put them in their boats. They guarantee heat exchanger cleanings!
 
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Well, I agree and I don't put them in the mains either but according to Hatt/DD (around year 2000), they are supposed to be there. Just wonder why NL didn't think so. To me it indicates that they (NL) might have been ahead of the "common knowledge" re zincs in engines.

Re the main engs - I have gone from two zincs in the HE, none in the RW pump; to one zinc in the output side of the HE, none in the RW pump; to none anywhere in the engine; to back to one in the output side of the HE; to (currently) none in the engine at all.
 
I know the expurts will howl...... But in 36 years of working on marine engines everyday, I have never seen an exchanger fail that could be definatively blamed on electrolysis.

I also noticed that the cooling systems without zincs stayed MUCH cleaner.

The Onan MDL3 AND MDL4's have no zincs and I have a number of 20+ year old MDL's that run cool as new and have NEVER had the exchanger cores cleaned.

The gear coolers on the 3208's always plug up with that white calcium crap. I noticed some older 3208 gear coolers stayed clean. The difference was the clean coolers did not have a place for a zinc.

I see aftercooler cores beat to hell from zinc pieces being hammered by the force of the water against the tubes.

I made up my mind years ago about not using pencils.
YMMV
 
MikeP: "Re the main engs - I have gone from two zincs in the HE, none in the RW pump; to one zinc in the output side of the HE, none in the RW pump; to none anywhere in the engine; to back to one in the output side of the HE; to (currently) none in the engine at all..."

The theory is simple (but not necessarily conclusive): different metals in engine cooling systems would typically corrode via galvanic corrosion. But since the most active metal would seem to be the heavy, massive heat exchanger...with a great deal of mass compared with the less active heat exchanger....and copper [piping....maybe it could "corrode" for 100 years without effect??

We also discussed that at least the 8V71TI's Mike and I have self drain the raw water after shutdown...I checked mine repeatedly and never figured out how THAT could be with the raw water pump at one end and the shower head at the other HIGHER than the heat exchanger. But whenever I checked zincs, no raw water was present....and I could hear no syphoning....The zincs sit in air 99% of tghe time!!!!....the zincs appear to be immersed in water only when the engine is running!!! That means maybe 100 or 200 annual hours of "protection"....I can't remember about the 6V53's and 3-53's I owned.

It IS tough to decide where, if at all, to use pencil zincs.....no matter where you use them, pieces end up where you don't want them: intercoolers, heat exchangers, shower heads......But surveyors look for them, so maybe frequent replacement if they are used is the way to go. I ended up using one on the output side of the DD heat exchanger.

When I replaced my DD heat exchanger gaskets I also cleaned the input side of the heat exchangers, I found a few zincs pieces, fewer impeller pieces, and some shell pieces....looked like mussel remnants...but the cooling had been ok.

I did have a 12KW Onan running warmer than it should at 35 years of age: Disassembly of the heat exchanger revealed cast iron ends which had "grown" into the copper alloy tubing between...several inches of growth!!!!...they were maybe 3/4 blocked!!!....that growth was a crusty, porous, iron oxide or some type, I think, and I easily chipped it away with a small hammer and screwdriver...then routed out each tube...but the tubes were clean inside, just the ends were blocked with the growth....Looked like nobody had cleaned that heat exchanger in 35 years. Most of the growth was on the input end of that HE...only maybe 1/3 as much growth at the other end...Do not understand that, either. I found a former pencil zinc there and replaced it. I don't know the effect, if any, such pencil zincs might have such "growth"....It's possible they retard such growth.

I'm 90% sure Bruce Morrison the Hatt mtc guy likes pencil zincs on DD and replaced them for the new owner of my boat. Tradition maybe??

I always worried about the shower heads getting partially clogged.....Is there any reasonable way to check those and/or clear those of debris???
 
Never found any zincs on our NL either Mike.
 
Interesting.....my Northern Lights 30KW's have two in each heat exchanger, one on each end. I only know this because I just removed/boiled/replaced the heat exchangers, replaced the zincs, flushed the fresh water side and replaced the tank caps.

What confused me is that there is a zinc in the expansion tank! I have never seen one on the fresh water side on anything, so I left those alone. Granted, when the original owner ordered these sets from Northern Lights he spec'ed 1200rpm John Deere engines as opposed to the standard 1800rpm units so maybe this is more of a John Deere thing I am not sure.
 
My NL753 has one in the heat exchanger and that is as shown on the parts list but does then state 'zincs, as required'...

Colwyn.
 
Nope, no zincs on the smaller NL gennys, guess they figure the boot system on the HE is the ticket. Seems to work well, I've had no issues with mine. Now the POS Jabsco raw water pump is another story, the last pump (number 4) didn't last a year or 200hrs.
 

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