New throttle and clutch cabels

[captwoodyb]

Hello Everyone, Getting ready to replace sticking cables, I have been fighting them for years, tried lubricating etc. It's a 1972 53MY, cables are really stiff, sometimes hang up .... real difficult. Friend of mine just replaced cables on 45 Carver said it was not that difficult. Anyone have any advice comments, experience they would share. Thanks.......Captwoodyb

 

[Paul45c]

1. make sure there are two of you
2. tape the ends of the cables really well for pulling through raceways, wire bundles, etc. so you don't bugger the jackets on your other wiring these things will be bunched in with
3. gentle curves wherever you can

 

[Boss Lady]

The local electrical supply house has some lube used to pull wire through conduit. If you have any tight fits this stuff works great and will help keep from skining the jacket on your new cables.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Easiest way is a threaded sleeve so you can screw one end of each of the cables, old and new, into the sleeve and use the old cable to pull the new cable through. I used WD40, and easy does it- real slowly, so you don't hang it up and tear anything. You can also put a shrink wrap sleeve over the threaded one, so there are fewer corners to hang up, but I haven't found it necessary, and I did EIGHT of these in Blue Note. About 45 minutes per cable average, but I am a slow worker and I did it alone. With two, it should be far easier. Usually with the old cables, the length in feet will be printed on the cable someplace, to help you ordering the new ones.

Oh- big concern- use the THINNEST new cables you can, not the thickest. Thin ones have less moving friction.

 

[Pete]

Can not speak to a 53 but I did the cables on my 48 LRC and it was no picnic. The cables were routed through holes in wooden supports that were then filled with silicone calking. Required removal of the headliner in the master stateroom, sliding out the washer/dryer, and lots of time. Well worth the effort in terms of the improvement in the controls. I also rebuilt the Morse units with new bearing, cleaned and greased everything. You need someone with your exact model boat to tell you the routing of the cables and their experience.

Pete Drez

 

[egaito]

Use red jacketed cables and never do it again!

 

[Banshee36]

The green cables, cable craft , available from Rose Marine, Gloucester, Mass., are the Bomb. They cost a few dollars more, but are well worth it. I am on year 9 with a set and could not be happier.

JW

 

[MyMuse]

I replaced all eight of mine on my 1977 53' Classic, and it wasn't all that nasty of a job. I guess I found the key is to pull the wood chase trim down from the salon wall. The vertical chase from flybridge to engine room. That way, you have access directly to all runs, with nothing more than 4-6 inches of run hidden as it goes thru decks.
As an aside, don't count on the cable measurements from Sam's or your supplier to be totally accurate for your boat. I had two cables out of eight that were off by 4-6 feet (laid side-by-side). Be prepared to wait for an exchange.
I pulled the old cable out, laid the new cable next to it to confirm length, and then slid the new cable into place. No lube required with the salon run exposed.

 

[Lucky Dog]

West Marine sells Teleflex's "tfxtreme" so-called performance cables and charges a small premium over the standard red jacketed ones. Does anybody know anything about these?

 

[Will]

We just installed all new cables in our 43' DCFB. We screwed one of the existing engine ends of the old cables on to a new cable. Then connected the old and new cables together with a plastic tie wrap and pulled the new cable using the existing one as a pull. It was not too difficult at all because of easy access to difficult areas. We used Teleflex premium red jacket cables and it made all the difference in the world.

Will