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New paint

  • Thread starter Thread starter hatterass
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hatterass

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Dec 18, 2005
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225
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
36' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1969 -1977)
In my last thread I asked about the cracking/ crazing in my hull. I think I need to sand, fair and paint the hull. I just painted the topside of the boat with algrip. I read a thread on the Imron paint and that it can be buffed and once algrip gets old it'd done. What is the best paint to use Algrip or imron? What are the pros cons/ costs associated with both. What lasts longer or more durable?
Thanks
Dave
 
I'm a TOTAL Imron fan. The Imron on our boat is 15 years old and still looks new - when it's clean (never waxed) people think it was just painted. Beginning in the late 70's I have shot it on everything from motorcycles to boats to planes to John Deere combines!

However, as has been stated before, it's more important to find a marine paint shop with a reputation for good work and let them shoot whatever paint they normally use. Although Imron and Awlgrip are the best known of the catylized (sp?) paints, there are others.
 
Mike, I will most likely have the yard do the work. They do a good job... They use Algrip most of the time. Would it not be good if I asked them to use the Imron? Would that stand up better then the other for ware, ease of care and life span of the paint? Also is one more expensive then the other?
Dave
 
As with Mike, I'm a fan of Imron as well. My experience with it is mostly on trucks and construction equipment and it really holds up well. My boat has her original Imron that is 23 years old and it stills looks nice.

That said, I would not insist that a yard use a paint that they are not used to painting on a regular basis. I recently needed to repaint one pilothouse door. Most of the yard guys around me use Awlgrip, so I removed the door and took it to a shop that paints Imron. It turned out great.

If you want Imron, find a painter that is using it. If not, I would go with the Awlgrip or whatever they are using.
 
I must start by restating I am an Imron fan based on my experience with it. But I do NOT have any personal experience using Awlgrip. So it would not be fair for me to claim that my preference for Imron is based on any personal testing of the two in similar applications. Continuing...

Painters use what they like so if our shop use Awlgrip, I suspect they would "rather not" use Imron. They might do so if you insist but they might advise that they don't "guarantee" it to the same level as what they usually use. Some shops will absolutely refuse to use a product other than what they contract to use.

The first demonstration I saw of Imron was at a drag race in 1977. One of the racers had a panel painted with it that they used as a portable bench for working on various components. They would do their work, including much banging and tossing parts on the panel. Then they'd wash it and the panel looked brand new. We were absolutely amazed.

I do not mean to imply that Awlgrip is not excellent paint. It is and lots of boat makers use it including Hatt (they used to use Imron). It seems that most marine painters now use it as well.

Re that, A boat-painter friend of mine in NY used Imron for years and, in a casual discussion in the summer of 06, told me that he had just switched to Awlgrip because he found it was a little easier to spray. When I asked him if it would last as long as Imron, he laughed and said, "It's easier to spray!" In further discussion he said that since he just started using Awlgrip he didn't know it's long-term capability from personal experience. But he was confident that it would wear "long-enough."

Imron has a MUCH longer history of proven quality than Awlgrip simply because it's been around since the 70's and has been used on virtually every industrial vehicle known to man. That doesn't in itself mean that it's better but a long history of quality results is tough to argue against.

As far as care, they are the same. Neither should be waxed. Not because wax will hurt them but because it will cause the sheen to look yellow over time. Awlgrip makes "Awlcare," a protective sealer that they recommend for the paint. The last time I was seriously involved in this, Imron did not recommend any product over the paint, considering anything added to be less effective than the paint itself.

Imron is noted to be easier to repair/color match and is available in far more colors. But having lots of colors is not really that big a deal since boat colors are fairly standard. You don't see many people painting their boats in something called "silver-blue Midnight metallic mist," for example. NOTE: I made up that color but my wife had a turbo Buick regal back in the 70's that had a paint color that was something like that! :)

In any case, good luck!
 
Thanks Mike,
Well I guess because the yard uses the Algrip i should go with that. To me just having the topside painted in the algrip and not totally impressed with it's durability I was hoping to hear something else. But, I don't want to push them into doing something they are not comfortable with. They quoted me around 4,000.00 to do one side of the hull including sanding and fairing of the cracking. Is that fare? I don't know it cost 200 to change a spark plug now:)
Dave
 
Here is a history lesson. Awlgrip was originally called "Alumagrip". Both Dupont,(Imron), and US paint, (Alumagrip), produced their products for the aircraft industry. When jets came out they found that the exhaust would remove the enamel paint better than paint stripper. The first answer was a 2 part epoxy paint. It worked perfectly, but was so UV critical that the colors would appear to run when you washed the plane or flew through heavy rain. Alumagrip became the standard of the aircraft industry mainly because it holds a shine longer and polishing is not a good option. Can you imagine wheeling the paint job on a 747? When the Awlgrip dulls, they strip and re-paint. That process takes no more time than polishing on that large of a surface.
 

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