New batteries bit still no luck.

[tunasea]

Couple weeks ago I went to start starboard engine and it was a no go. Hit parallel switch and no problem. So I checked starboard bank and batteries needed to be replaced. I did so and I still have no crank on starboard engine. It cranks but not enough to turn over. I checked all connections on terminals and batteries are new? Next step is to check the switches. Any other advice as I'm missing something!!!

 

[bobk]

Not sure I can offer much, but I've been having this issue for several years. Changed battery selector switches and it was OK for a while. Changed batteries and it was OK for a while. Did a PM on the starter and new solenoid and it was OK for a while. Most recently my mechanic filed down the lugs for the terminals and same result. OK for a while. I'll note that the DC volt meter drops just a little when it is going to start, but drops 2-3 volts when it cranks slowly. Grrrr. It (so far) has always started well using the parallel switch.

Bobk

 

[Cricket]

Degraded wiring?

 

[rsmith]

Electricity is a lot like water if it's not flowing it's stopped up somewhere in between. Start at the started with a volt meter when cranking then keep working back to the batteries. But remember this, 99.999999% of all DC problems are ground related!

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Could be a Bad connection at a terminal end.

 

[MadHatter53]

Bad connection or bad wire. I had same prob, the gnd wire had a gash in the insulation water got in and ate it up, crumbled in my hand like spaghetti.

 

[tunasea]

All terminals are good and clean. I am going to replace some of the cables but will check all of them. Thanks for replies. Just another note; when using the parallel switch, it spins up and starts immediately. Would that take the wire or cable issue out of the equation?

 

[MikeP]

A voltage drop test will pinpoint where the problem is. There a tons of explanations of how to conduct V drop tests on the internet and it will isolate each "section" of the circuit if you do it correctly. It's much better than the typical shotgun approach to such issues - replacing parts/cables and hoping to find whatever is causing the problem.

As noted, grounds are at the top of the list of suspects.

 

[bobk]

.

As noted, grounds are at the top of the list of suspects.

Mike, check me here.... does the parallel switch do anything about a bad ground? If not, would that eliminate the ground question? That said, mine have all been cleaned up and the ends of the wires shortened and new lugs installed, and I still get the sporadic difficult start, especially on a cold engine. Never on a warm or hot one.

Bobk

 

[rsmith]

Grounds can do weird things. I had a Harley where I was having intermittent electrical problems. Tach would intermittent turn signals would act crazy. Started every time just fine. Started tracing out grounds from the front end back. was riding one day shut the bike off went to fire it back up and nothing. Turns out the ground cable from the battery to the ground bus had fatigued and broken in the middle but the plastic jacket cable was still intact and looked fine. Ok Mike P you can pick on my Millwaulkee vibrator. But I like BSA's Norton's and Triumphs also

 

[krush]

Grounds will cause problems that will have you scratching your head and seem to defy physics.

 

[Dan Mapes]

I have to wonder about the ground theory if the parallel switch kicks the engine over with better revs. All it does is bridge the two starter banks together at the positive side right?

Well not exactly. What we wind up with is a battery bank that could have a better ground than the primary bank for the engine. The other battery bank still has its own ground and without it the parallel switch would not work.

What I would do, is move the shutdown lever into the shutdown position and put a nylon wire tie on it to hold it in place. Then I would use the voltmeter approach illustrated above with a local starter button to facilitate quicker diagnosis.

Sound legit?

Edit: Take your time and give the starter a break once in a while. Set up each measurement carefully, making sure the voltmeter contacts are solid before turning the engine over.

 

[tunasea]

Will give it a go. Will let you all know what I find. Thanks for the info!!!

 

[LUV'N LIFE]

Simple way to eliminate the problem RSmith related to is to parallel a jumper cable over ground cable first, and then your positive. If the engine spins better with one of the cables paralleled you have narrowed the problem down.

 

[MikeP]

Ok Mike P you can pick on my Millwaulkee vibrator. But I like BSA's Norton's and Triumphs also

I actually owned a new Hardly Ableson for about a year back in the late 90's - figured that after a ton of years on bikes I should at least try one. So I did… But I went back to a sport bike, Ducati's at that time. Now I'm on a 2014 BMW R9T (as well as the Commando).

Re grounds - the beauty of old Britt Bikes (and Harleys…and boats) is that you get a definite appreciation of grounds/electrical connections in general

 

[oscarvan]

Simple way to eliminate the problem RSmith related to is to parallel a jumper cable over ground cable first, and then your positive. If the engine spins better with one of the cables paralleled you have narrowed the problem down.

This.

Heavy, heavy jumper cables.

Had a Suburban (newish) with similar issues. Wiggle the ground wire and it would start. New one and it never happened again.