Need some recommendations!

[Rickysa]

Galley Maid windlass is shot....repair/replace? replacement recommendations?


Galley Maid Empress stove/oven is shot...ditto


Thanks!

Rick

eta: '85 45C

 

[z28jimi]

Is yours a 32 volt windlass?
I have a 12 volt I'm removing if you're interested. Capstan only (no chain gypsy).

 

[Rickysa]

To be honest, I have no idea. I tried to get some info from the locker, but twernt no way any part of my arse was gonna fit in there

 

[GJH]

What do you mean by "shot"?
Have you talked to GallayMaid? What do they recommend?

 

[MikeP]

What, exactly, doesn't work? All parts should be available to refurbish the windlass. I suggest you look into that first as opposed to spending money on a new one. OTOH, if you just want a new windlass because you WANT a new windlass, that's certainly a good reason!

FWIW, the one bad point re the GM windlass is that it is not suitable for extended "down-powering." It is designed to be used by letting the anchor down by releasing pressure on the clutch and letting the anchor feed out by it's own weight. Extended use of the windlass to power-feed out can damage it.

 

[Rickysa]

GJH, hitting the power switch for the windlass pops the breaker...like the motor is frozen. It hasn't ever worked, which I now want to remedy. In reading past threads, I remember a certain model (not GM) that most recommended rebuilding, given it's quality components.

l haven't tackled the removal yet (knowing that to be a challenge in and of itself), so I don't have any info yet to discuss with GM.

Regarding the stove...it, as well, has never worked. Since we will be using the boat more for live-aboard cruising rather than fishing, time to repair/replace it.

 

[tonytrakovich]

What, exactly, doesn't work? All parts should be available to refurbish the windlass. I suggest you look into that first as opposed to spending money on a new one. OTOH, if you just want a new windlass because you WANT a new windlass, that's certainly a good reason!

FWIW, the one bad point re the GM windlass is that it is not suitable for extended "down-powering." It is designed to be used by letting the anchor down by releasing pressure on the clutch and letting the anchor feed out by it's own weight. Extended use of the windlass to power-feed out can damage it.

Mike, why does it not like to be down powered? It seems like the motor shouldn't care which way it is spinning? Is there something I am missing?

 

[bobk]

Mike, why does it not like to be down powered? It seems like the motor shouldn't care which way it is spinning? Is there something I am missing?

There is no down thrust bearing and some internal part gets worn then starts to make noise and run slowly and erratically. The GM is supposed to be a copy of the Ideal except for this deficiency which allowed them to get around an Ideal patent. A thin thrust bearing can be installed after machining space for it. A GM employee who does some repairs on the side did it for me.

The GM also has another feature I don't like. The clutch seems to lose its friction and needs regular retightening. After doing the adjustment enough the shaft actually starts to be pulled out. It is not well anchored.

We replaced the functioning GM range with a Princess when we got the boat 8 years ago. So far so good, except the knobs are not made of a grease resistant plastic and we have had to replace many of them. I always buy extras.

Bobk

 

[GJH]

GJH, hitting the power switch for the windlass pops the breaker...like the motor is frozen. It hasn't ever worked, which I now want to remedy. In reading past threads, I remember a certain model (not GM) that most recommended rebuilding, given it's quality components.

l haven't tackled the removal yet (knowing that to be a challenge in and of itself), so I don't have any info yet to discuss with GM.

Regarding the stove...it, as well, has never worked. Since we will be using the boat more for live-aboard cruising rather than fishing, time to repair/replace it.

The windlass issue could be a simple electrical problem if you are lucky, solenoid, short. Helps to have two people, one to hit the switch and another close to the motor listening and looking.

 

[magnawake]

I have a related question.....Maybe a dumb one at that. Does my GM windlas have a clutch? I was looking around for a knob or something to let the anchor free wheel but cant find anything. I just step on the down button and the chain goes down ever so slow. So how do you release the clutch and let it free wheel down under its own weight? Dont laugh, I've been doing this for three years. Hope I have tore anything up.

 

[MikeP]

As noted, the GM is an "almost" copy of the Ideal windlass minus the "down" thrust bearing. But aside from that, they are supposed to be quite robust.

The clutches are between the capstan and the body of the windlass and are released by a large nut or wing-nut type of fastener on the top of the capstan. The clutches can and will seize up over time if they are not periodically released and allowed to freewheel. SO if they are seized, it will act as if there is a solid connection. It can take a good bit of effort to free them up. Thereafter, anytime you use the anchor and have it back aboard, release the clutch pressure and run the windlass a few turns to ensure the clutches are free. DO NOT tighten the clutch nut back down until you are ready to use the windlass again. Otherwise they will just seize again.