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need help replacing plexiglass wind shield

  • Thread starter Thread starter cjd
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cjd

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Feb 25, 2006
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Hatteras Model
36' CONVERTIBLE-Series II (1983 - 1987)
The latest wind storm cracked and parts of the plexiglass broke away from the hardware that holds the plexiglass wind shield (below the EZ2CY enclosure) is this a stock item at sams? 1985 36 Conv. Need advice.
 
The latest wind storm cracked and parts of the plexiglass broke away from the hardware that holds the plexiglass wind shield (below the EZ2CY enclosure) is this a stock item at sams? 1985 36 Conv. Need advice.

Sorry to say you in in for a suprise. The stuff has to be molded and cut. Not avable as i know off anywhere. just replaces the entire windshield on my 52c thought long and hard because so many have taken them off. Had to purchase a sheet and cut it out and heat and bend. I cracked two peices doing it. Best of luck....
 
It's really not hard to do. Sand and fire polish the cut surfaces before bending. I've simply used a heat gun for bending 1/4" acrylic. Allow it to form slowly... don't force the bend. You need to heat both sides, but heat the outside of the bend a little more than the inside.

Bobk
 
Thanks Tim and Bob. I think I will give it a shot. Is there a particular name for the glass or type I should buy?
 
There are several brands of acrylic sheet available and I'm not sure it makes much difference. Plexiglas is very common. Be sure to get a good surface quality. Some extruded stuff is not true optical grade.

One other suggestion. Over drill the mounting holes to allow for thermal expansion and contraction. Use pan head screws. Never put an oval or flat head into plastic. And don't over tighten.

Bobk
 
It's really not hard to do. Sand and fire polish the cut surfaces before bending. I've simply used a heat gun for bending 1/4" acrylic. Allow it to form slowly... don't force the bend. You need to heat both sides, but heat the outside of the bend a little more than the inside.

Bobk

Before you jump let me check with the guys who helped me there are several types of glass there is one which will turn purple in a few years you do not want that one. I belive you are in Florida we ordered the stuff from there somewhere. There is another that has carbon in it... Stand by for a few days i will tell you exactley what i used after some shoping around pro and con mine is called midnight gray but it actually looks black. I understand the darker colors are hard to see through.
The 52 bridge windsheld bends two ways at a angle and around. The wind shield was made origionally with material that turned purple ugley to say the least we also made it thicker. let you know about monday...
just got tex from the boat yard

we used 3/8 inch dark gray piedmont plastics in Raleigh N.C. they will sell parcial sheets but a full sheet is cheaper but not much. Acrylic or plexiglass Polycarbonit or lexan turns purple.....good luck tim
 
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You should anneal to prevent crazing due to internal stresses created during manufacture. This is very often overlooked.

http://www.plexiglas.com/export/sit...Fabrication-Guidlines-Plexiglas-Annealing.pdf

DAN

Agree, but it is not a simple thing for the DIYer to do, especially on a large part. Polishing edges and gentle diffuse heating of the bends should work out OK. If the part is within an enclosure, simple solar heating in theory should do some annealing.

Going back to material selection, don't get tempted to use any polycarbonate such as Lexan or Macrolon, even if it is coated for UV resistance. It will end up weathered. The acrylic windscreen on my Taiwanese trawler turned orange with time. :eek:

Bobk
 
A few years back ( before my Hatteras years ) I replaced the windscreen on a 32' Blackfin FB. I took the defective screen to a glass shop ( windows, doors, etc ) and they used the original as a pattern and fabricated a new onhje out of Lexan. As suggested I oversized the holes and used rubber gromets to help insulate the vibration. I kept that boat for two more years and the screen stayed clear. According to the fabricator, a lot of heat and bending was required but the cost was relatively low. I had to purchase the whole sheet of Lexan ( 2' x 12' ) but have used the remnants for other projects over he years. Good luck but consider using someone who regularly deals with these fabrications as the cost might bhe surprisingly affordable.
 
A few years back ( before my Hatteras years ) I replaced the windscreen on a 32' Blackfin FB. I took the defective screen to a glass shop ( windows, doors, etc ) and they used the original as a pattern and fabricated a new onhje out of Lexan. As suggested I oversized the holes and used rubber gromets to help insulate the vibration. I kept that boat for two more years and the screen stayed clear. According to the fabricator, a lot of heat and bending was required but the cost was relatively low. I had to purchase the whole sheet of Lexan ( 2' x 12' ) but have used the remnants for other projects over he years. Good luck but consider using someone who regularly deals with these fabrications as the cost might bhe surprisingly affordable.

I think that's the way I am leaning. The front is fairly easy but the two side panels are compound bends. I can do the take out and re install for savings there. The originals can be used as a template.
Thanks
 
I think that's the way I am leaning. The front is fairly easy but the two side panels are compound bends. I can do the take out and re install for savings there. The originals can be used as a template.
Thanks

just to add a little. I could not stop rain watter from comming in under the windshield. I used white starboard made a 2 inch boarder under the windshield. I also cut a grove in the starboard to sit the windshield in. It looks factory and stoped watter from comming in. There are rubber strips that are made which will do the same thing but they buckle in the turns. FYI
 

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