Need a new turbo in NC

[carolinacoast]

All:
I need 1 new(probably rebuilt to OEM specs) turbo for one of my 6V92 engines. Part #5106250 and serial#81980B0800 which is probably a Garrett. I haven't had to buy one of these, and am paying a mechanic to change it, so is probably cheaper to replace than try a field rebuild. I have blow by and soot on the blanket. Mechanic says leaking obvious at both seals. What is a good source to get a price quote on this? Boat is in Wilmington, NC.

 

[MikeP]

Don't know of a supplier but unless the impeller blades or turbine blades are damaged, turbos are quite easy to rebuild and kits are under 100 bucks. Absent damage, it's just seals and bushings that are replaced when they are reconditioned by a "factory" or shop. The critical thing with turbo rebuilding is ensuring everything is kept scrupulously clean when re-assembling. If you buy a reconditioned one, it will just be a rebuild of someone else's turbo so it would be less money to just "kit" the one you have. If you are not interested in it as a DIY, your mech can probably do it.

 

[Bob Bradley]

Be sure you really need one. I wouldn't make replacing it my first step. It may just be an exhaust leak at the back end where the exhaust exits the turbo - easily fixed with a new V-clamp and hi-temp sealant. The soot on the blanket might very well be the exhaust soot being sucked back in the front of the turbo.

BTW, Derek (Scrod) from the site supplied the last one I bought. Brand new, not rebuilt, for the price of a rebuild.

 

[chris piazza]

I agree that you should investigate a little further as to the cause, however if you do need a new or rebuilt turbo try Michigan Turbo. I got a new one for my 892 for a little over 900 with a one year warranty.

Chris
Superior Nights 53C

 

[Nick]

Be sure you really need one. I wouldn't make replacing it my first step. It may just be an exhaust leak at the back end where the exhaust exits the turbo - easily fixed with a new V-clamp and hi-temp sealant. The soot on the blanket might very well be the exhaust soot being sucked back in the front of the turbo.

BTW, Derek (Scrod) from the site supplied the last one I bought. Brand new, not rebuilt, for the price of a rebuild.

Ditto here....Derek is the right person!

 

[carolinacoast]

Thanks everyone. Will look toward a 'kit' approach as MikeP suggests and believe it is an exhauust leak as Bob noted. Think I will learn first hand about this one and do an 'owner assist' since I have 3 more and do not know much about this system. Will keep the mechanic a bit honest I expect also. this one is new to me. thank you.

 

[Tim Powell]

if you are looking one fast try costal diesel in Wilmington Speak to Jessie Price they have about 5 diffrent prices so go with a price in mind. they probley have it in stock both new and redone ..Sorry i do not have a number...the morehead number is 252 633 2022

 

[Tim Powell]

Thanks everyone. Will look toward a 'kit' approach as MikeP suggests and believe it is an exhauust leak as Bob noted. Think I will learn first hand about this one and do an 'owner assist' since I have 3 more and do not know much about this system. Will keep the mechanic a bit honest I expect also. this one is new to me. thank you.

may i ask who is doing the work

 

[carolinacoast]

mechanic is eddie jacobs at bennett nrothers. coastal gave him a quote of 870 with 1 year warranty. have used josh roberts also in wilmington. first time with eddie, but boat is at BB.

 

[34Hatt]

Ditto here....Derek is the right person!

O.K so I will be #3 Just talk to Derek and all will be good!

 

[Boatsb]

I think rebuilding it on your own makes sense. Who needs a clean environment to work in. Measuring to make sure everything is round and correct is over rated. Or just call Derek.

 

[Boatsb]

By the way whats the number one cause of fires on diesel powered boats?

 

[Avenger]

Thanks everybody for the endorsements.

Mal, my recommendation is to echo the others who said first make sure you need a rebuild. There's no point to spending the money for a rebuild if it's just a leaking gasket. Also, if it doesn't need it, "kit"ing it is just an opportunity to cause a problem.

Mechanically turbochargers are very simple, but since they spin upwards of 80K RPM they're highly stressed and little details, like balance for example, can jump up and bite you. Yes, a competent technician can replace bearings and seals successfully if that's all they need. But in general they're a great example of "If it ain't broke..."

When you get a better look at it, post some details and we can help you evaluate it.

 

[Vincentc]

By the way whats the number one cause of fires on diesel powered boats?

I would guess-

Electrical - Shore Power.

Regards,

 

[Genesis]

Nope on the fire cause -- turbos and specifically oil leaks onto and around them, or exhaust leaks from them.

The exhaust flange, if eroded and leaking, can be sealed successfully with Silkolene. But the root cause of the problem (likely support for the crossover pipe is marginal or damaged and needs work) has to be corrected or the problem will come back. The exhaust housing-to-center-section joint on the other hand is tight-tolerance and use of sealants there is ill-advised. If any of it oozes out and gets into the wheel while operating or the wheel hits the housing you're likely to grenade the turbo. If the surfaces of that joint are damaged I'd probably swap the turbo out, but again the reason for that joint to leak in the first place is PROBABLY excessive stress coming from the crossover pipe and that has to be corrected or the new one will fail too. In addition never reuse the turbo flange-to-crossover clamps; they lose their flexibility over time due to heat cycling and a failure there is asking for an instant fire.

BTW don't start up a new turbo without making sure it has oil in the center housing bearing FIRST.

 

[Boatsb]

Nope on the fire cause -- turbos and specifically oil leaks onto and around them, or exhaust leaks from them.

The exhaust flange, if eroded and leaking, can be sealed successfully with Silkolene. But the root cause of the problem (likely support for the crossover pipe is marginal or damaged and needs work) has to be corrected or the problem will come back. The exhaust housing-to-center-section joint on the other hand is tight-tolerance and use of sealants there is ill-advised. If any of it oozes out and gets into the wheel while operating or the wheel hits the housing you're likely to grenade the turbo. If the surfaces of that joint are damaged I'd probably swap the turbo out, but again the reason for that joint to leak in the first place is PROBABLY excessive stress coming from the crossover pipe and that has to be corrected or the new one will fail too. In addition never reuse the turbo flange-to-crossover clamps; they lose their flexibility over time due to heat cycling and a failure there is asking for an instant fire.



BTW don't start up a new turbo without making sure it has oil in the center housing bearing FIRST.

You forgot to add.



JUST CALL DEREK.

 

[Tim Powell]

mechanic is eddie jacobs at bennett nrothers. coastal gave him a quote of 870 with 1 year warranty. have used josh roberts also in wilmington. first time with eddie, but boat is at BB.

this may be to late but the one to try is Joe Nemmeth 910-443-5067 a verry verry good guy with DD and a good guy to go with it..... Just FYI

 

[carolinacoast]

Please advise on these pictures taken today. The airbox has no screen which is supposed to be there according to the serial#. True/false? Second, the turbo is leaking on both sides which he tells me means it is very likely that the bearing is going or gone and likely a slight wobble has begun to cause both seals to fail. He agreed that an exhaust leak only at the clamp could be touched up with sealant. Still recommends a swap, since a field rebuild wont save a lot, and the new unit comes with a warranty. Thoughts? thanks in advance.

 

[carolinacoast]

Will add Joe to my contact list. thanks. Will make more sense away from the yard.

 

[Bob Bradley]

I have 1979 6v92ta engines (435hp Covington marinizations) with the same turbos as yours. Mine does not have screens at the blower either.

Couple observations on the turbo pic.

First is unrelated to the soot question, but I don't see the bolts that hold the oil feed line in place. Have the heads sheared off? Maybe it's just not clear in the picture, but if they are gone, you need to address that.

Second, the soot I see is primarily at the seal on the blower side of the turbo (the side with the blue output hose), not the exhaust side. With the turbo blanket in place it may be that the exhaust leak, be it from the mounting flange on the exhaust inlet side, or from under the V-clamp on the outlet side, is being routed thru the area shown (external to the turbo) by the simple fact that the blanket is in place.


My turbo looked just like yours, and all that was wrong was that the mounting flange gasket had blown. It is not a terrible job to remove and replace the turbo if you don't mind getting dirty and turning wrenches. The first time I did it, it was a PITA, but was much easier once I had done it a couple times. I did have to change out a couple mounting studs, as they had stripped, exacerbating (or perhaps causing) the blown gasket problem. A $20 stud remover from NAPA make easy work of these.

Good luck and keep posting.