Sam's is your source for Hatteras and Cabo Yacht parts.

Enter a part description OR part number to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog:

Email Sam's or call 1-800-678-9230 to order parts.

name removal /glue residue

  • Thread starter Thread starter spincycle
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 18
  • Views Views 5,662

spincycle

Active member
Joined
Dec 6, 2007
Messages
131
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
54' EXTENDED DECKHOUSE (1989 - 1992)
Hi guys, changing the name on the boat today and have got the name decal off with out much problem, but there is quite a bit of glue reside left over. I don't want to damage the original Imron paint and i need to know if there is a gentel solvent out there i can use to remove this left over glue.

Spincycle
 
your joking right, won't that take off the shine i have on the paint?

Spincycle
 
Spincycle,

We made a bunch of new friends at our dock when we renamed our 45C. The more booze at the party the better. Here is a link.

http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/rename.htm

For the record, I think it is bad luck to be superstitious, ha ha. Good luck and have FUN !

Greg
1985 45C
Hat Time
Miami Beach, FL
 
E-Z off works well on Sure Shot sign painters paint AND sub related stains. I just wiped down the awlgrip paint that had a winters worth of stains and streaking with mineral spirits. That didnt touch the stain
( fuel vent drips etc) so I tried acetone which worked well and didnt PHASE the shine! I just cant take the STAIN. LOL ws
 
Real boat paint ( Awlgrip ) will not be affected. Believe it or not oven cleaner is a mild form of Lye.
 
Ethyl Acetate is a great solvent for most glue resins. Probably better than acetone all around and has the advantage of not evaporating quite so fast.
Eric
 
3M adhesive remover, good stuff.
 
Try WD-40, it even cleans up 52million.
JW
 
Don't worry about damaging Imron. We used to paint our concrete trucks with it and routinely cleaned them with muratic acid to get the cement off.
 
Believe it or not, WD-40 works really well on a lot of stains. It'll take off glue and shoe scuff marks. Give it a try first.
 
I second the comment on the 3M Adhesive Remover. I used it to remove the lettering on my Awlgrip and it works fine and will not damage the paint.
 
'Goof Off' should take the glue off easily. Or if you have it, mix MEK and toluene or xylene 50/50. I would never even consider oven cleaners on Imron or Algrip. They will be attacked, it just won't show for a while.

Bob
 
I used go-gone from Lowes on the last name I removed. It was on fiberglass though but worked very well.
 
When you get the glue off, remember to compound the area where the old name was so that you don't get the ghostly shadow showing. We see this on many boats where they didn't compound where the old name was and you can still read the old name underneath the new.
 
What type of compaund should i use on Imron, or should i buff it out with Finessit ? then apply the new name decal

Spincycle
 
What type of compaund should i use on Imron, or should i buff it out with Finessit ? then apply the new name decal

Spincycle

Watch the compound. There are several different cuts, I use the Perfect-It 3000 Extra Cut for getting heavy oxidation off fiberglass. Again I have no experience with Imron but just wanted to let you know about the 3M compounds.
I think they stopped making Finesse-It and are now making the new compounds under the Perfect-It 3000 name. You can still get the Finesse-It in some markets, but last I looked I could not get it locally.
 
Be careful with compunds. Do not use any rough cut compounds on your paint. The compounds are like sandpaper the rougher grit you use , the rougher it is to get rid of the scratches again. (swirl marks) The finnesse it and perfect it and assorted other finishing compounds are designed to get rid of the swirl marks. The trick is not to put them in at all, if you can get away with it. Use fine finishing compounds to get rid of the shadow. Otherwise you are making more work for yourself. If you have to use compound , use a very fine compound , followed by finishing compound. Make sure yuo use a differant pad after the compund , otherwise you finishing compound will still have "grit" in it.-Pete
 
Finessee-it is what we use. Where we have heavily oxidized surfaces (where the paint feels like sandpaper), then the Perfect-It, extra cut is what we use. We thin it just a tad with some mineral spirits, too. And what you use to apply it is also important. We never use the wool pads. It's too harsh and is not kind to the Imron. We use the soft McGuire yellow foam pad, followed by a polishing microfiber cloth. We are in the process of restoring 28 year old Imron with surprising results.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
38,156
Messages
448,745
Members
12,482
Latest member
UnaVida

Latest Posts

Trending content

Back
Top Bottom