Sam's is your source for Hatteras and Cabo Yacht parts.

Enter a part description OR part number to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog:

Email Sam's or call 1-800-678-9230 to order parts.

NAIAD 252 Troublseshooting

  • Thread starter Thread starter Freestyle
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 18
  • Views Views 856

Freestyle

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
548
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
67' COCKPIT MY (1987 - 1995)
First long voyage since servicing the stabilizers and installing new seals. The tech left behind 32w oil which looks lighter than what we have been using. We also have 64w aboard. .

After about 100 hours of operation the low fluid light came on while crossing Exuma Sound in 2m beam seas. I attempted to add fluid while underway with the stabilizers energized. I have done this in the past and the light would go off and stabilizers remained operational. I added a quart and still can''t see fluid in the guage. The fins lost pressure and have drifted into the down position. I don't see evidence of a fluid leak out of the cylinder, pump, or at the fin access points in either ER.

Where should I start troubleshooting? I have several gallons of oil onboard and could see if I just didn't add enough underway. Do I need to re-center the fins?

If I can't get them operational, how do I center the fins?

We are anchored at The Aquarium and have time tomorrow to call Naiad and troubleshoot.

Any advice is appreciated.

Bruce

Freestyle
1986 62 CPMY. (54MY with ext)
Tampa
 
No oil in the bilge?
What oil level does the drive engine or drive clutch have.
Oil has to go somewhere?
If the cooler was leaking, you would be full of oil/water.
IMO, the pump back seal is leaking into the drive main or clutch (pending pump installation).
 
Last edited:
If you can’t get them operational and you want to use the locking pins to center and lock them for servicing : Disconnect the power BEFORE doing anything. If the hydraulic actuators are activated with the lock pins in place it could lead to all kinds of bad things happening. Kill the breaker first and put warning tape over it so no one touches it. Pull the lock pin from its “docked” position. Once the pin is COMPLETELY removed the lock arm will swing over to meet the actuator plate that the piston is attached to. The actuator plate looks like a clevis. Use a small pipe wrench to manually rotate the actuator plate until the hole in the lock arm lines up with the upper and lower holes of the actuator plate and drop the locking pin down into place. It should go all the way down through the top plate , the eye in the lock arm and finally through the bottom of the actuator plate. Pin should be all the way down flush through all three holes. . Repeat for the other side.
 
Last edited:
If memory serves me it is not recommended to operate the vessel at sea with the locking pins in place. They are primarily designed to be used during servicing or low operating speed in calm waters. It may very well be that they prefer you run them loose and let them self center while underway at sea rather than having the force of the water against that large fin transferring back to that relatively small locking pin. That would be a question for the folks at NAIAD. I had mine in the locked position all last season during servicing but I was confined to running relatively low speed inside the bay and I didn’t want them flopping around while backing up and maneuvering for docking. If you need help try getting in touch with Craig at NAIAD he’s very knowledgeable and can talk you through it. +1 (954) 797-7330
 
Couple other things I thought of… I was told I could use the same 40w motor oil I use in the Detroits to fill the reservoir. Some systems use a single pump others use a pump on each engine. More importantly, there are two different types of pumps. One can be run low on oil without causing damage and the other can’t . One may be positive displacement and the other isn’t. I would call NAIAD and confirm which you have before proceeding. Like Capt Ralph said that oil is going somewhere if it’s not in the bilge.
 
10W40 and you can run with the pins in, According to Niad. Check to make sure you don’t a centering block. Loss of pressure will self center if you do.
 
Check the oil level in the transmission that the stabilizer pump is attached to. The pump seal can leak back into the transmission. Call Stabilized Marine 954-797-7330, Talk to Craig or Tammy.
This has happened to me, I had to change the pump.

Caesars Ghost
1980 58YF #472
 
Defiantly reach out to Craig, he's extremely helpful over the phone. Pumps are mounted to an accessory gear at the back of the block. I had my pump fail a few months ago. Craig walked me through the trouble shooting, discovered that I had a centering block and sold me a pump and gaskets to R&R.
 
On a standard 252 system you would not normally lose oil that you wouldn't see in the engine room. But if you have a separate heat exchanger and aren't using the reservoir tank as your cooler, then you could lose oil through that separate cooler as the hydraulic lines feeding it are under pressure. Or, as stated above, you could also lose it at the pump, through the input shaft seal into the engine or transmission that drives it. It all depends on your setup.

My advice would be to call Naiad direct if you need help.
 
Does it leak when the boat is not running?? .....................Pat
 
I found the stabilizer oil in the starboard transmission. What do I do about that here in the Exumas? I am hoping nothing.

I have centered and pinned the fins with the breaker tagged out. Is it necessary to remove the HP line from the stabs as has been suggested or is that just idiot proofing if someone were to energize them at the breaker? I worry my impaired wrench skills could break a fitting.

Any other advice to a long unstabilized cruise?

Fixing boats in exotic places is not over rated.

Bruce

Freestyle
1986 62 CPMY. (54MY with ext)
Tampa
 
Order a new pump and have it shipped on Makers Air to Staniel. Painless process. Over the years I ve had parts sent that way, sometimes received in 24 hours. They handle customs and everything


And that included a Trac Stab hydraulic pump a few years ago.

As to unstabilized running …. It sucks. We left Staniel Sunday morning with the 116 heading back to miami, the bank was nasty and the stabs earned their keep.
 
What pump do you have? Is is splined or does it have a keyed shaft? I have a used working takeout that was on my accessory drive on my DD when I repowered. It was from a 252 system, keyed shaft. I can send it to you.

FYI, the pumps are available from many sources. You don't have to pay top $$$ from Naiad. I bought my splined shaft pump to fit my new gears online.
 
If you wait until you get back to fix it, the pump can be run dry. That's not a problem. The pinned fins are not a problem either.
 
I found the stabilizer oil in the starboard transmission. What do I do about that here in the Exumas? I am hoping nothing.

How does stabilizer oil end up in the transmission? They are 2 different systems.
 
I had a problem a couple of years ago where I ended up with excess oil in my port transmission.
It did cause a problem. That transmission would not go into gear.

I don't think it was from the stabilizer, but from a seal that needs replacing. I have been monitoring the level.

Once I sucked out the extra oil and put fresh in the transmission worked o.k. again.

So leaving extra high oil in the transmission could be an issue. Bye the way it was only high by about a quart or so as I recall.
 
Bruce: We’ve spent the last few seasons in Spanish Wells. They have some very competent marine trades maintaining the lobster
Fleet. I’m certain replacing your pump would be a walk in the park for them. Would be an easy run on the bank. Check with Robert @ R@B Boatyard. Brett
 
I had a problem a couple of years ago where I ended up with excess oil in my port transmission.
It did cause a problem. That transmission would not go into gear.

I don't think it was from the stabilizer, but from a seal that needs replacing. I have been monitoring the level.

Once I sucked out the extra oil and put fresh in the transmission worked o.k. again.

So leaving extra high oil in the transmission could be an issue. Bye the way it was only high by about a quart or so as I recall.

Bob,
That's the rear main seal on the engine that has failed. You need to have it replaced because its just going to get worse.

Nothing to do with the stabilizers.
 
Bob,
That's the rear main seal on the engine that has failed. You need to have it replaced because its just going to get worse.

Nothing to do with the stabilizers.

Thanks Sky, I have been watching the level and it hasn't moved since I had the problem.

I'm wondering now if maybe the prior owners put to much oil in? But if that were the case, I would think I would have had the issue right away.

I will continue to watch.

As I recall the oil was dirty black too, backing up exactly what you are saying.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
38,153
Messages
448,691
Members
12,482
Latest member
UnaVida

Latest Posts

Trending content

Back
Top Bottom