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Making Oil---6V92 TA

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bugsy
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Bugsy

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1978 - 1983)
I earlier posted a question about the extent of work required to the engines following a coolant leak into the lubricating system.

In the result, I had the heads tested and re-conditioned (new valves and springs)and complete new cylinder kits installed.

We ran the boat----no apparent issues (leaks etc) and I paid my bill.

After 3 hours of operation, I noted with dismay that the oil level on the dipstick was above "Full". I checked the coolant level in the radiator---it was normal. I extracted an oil sample---there was no separation. I called the mechanic---in a panic----and he suggested that "making oil" was normal as material in the engine returned to solution with use.

And so---I took her out for another 4 hours and again, I find that the oil level is above "Full" on the dipstick though again, there is no apparent "loss" of coolant.

And my question is----is this "making oil" to be expected and, if so---for how long? There can't be that much "sludge" returning to solution, can there?

The mechanic re-confirmed that the oil should be changed after 40-50 hours of use.
 
usally making oil is when there is diesel fuel entering the crankcase,bad fuel injector etc. How were the new rings broken-in?
 
Just FYI my old boss took delivery of the first 46 with 8/92's in Cape May. On the first trip offshore a cracked nut on one of the injector tubes filled the crankcase with fuel. The carry over fuel oil mix set the turbo on fire and we almost lost the boat. It took Hatt and DDA almost a year to fix the boat. I ended up with all his charter work but as I understand Hatt only compensated him for slip rental and 1 haul out. So much for new boat warantee.
 
I'm betting you're dumping fuel into the crank. When you said you pulled an oil sample, did you have it tested for the presence of contaminents (like fuel), or just eyeball it for any seperation?
 
I am in on this too! I am betting on fuel. Run the motors with the valve covers off (one at a time) you will find your source. Running the boat if it is fuel is going to kill the rest of the engine.:(
 
Take an oil sample and have it analyzed. Then you will know what you are chasing and not guessing and go from there.
 
I would do an analysis but, also demand the mechanic do the same and see what he says , be careful not to make the issue worse and thus void any claim for defective, faulty work.
 
You didn't say if the oil was milky....that would be water from somewhere. If as most suspect it is fuel, your oil has lost lubricating properties. In neither case should you run the engine.


Did you also change the bearings when you did the kits etc? That was highly recommended as a necessity when when coolant contaminates the oil.

Bobk
 
Your mechanics response doesn't make sense to me. If you did the kits he would have dropped the pan and hopefully cleaned it. If you're making that much oil, it's coming from somewhere. I also would suspect fuel in the oil but the only way to be certain as to what is going on is with oil analysis. I wouldn't run the boat until I knew what was going on.
 
Good bet - Fuel in oil. I think you'd be able to smell it if that much was getting into the oil. A quick check is to touch the end of the dip stick to a paper towel. You can often see the fuel and lube oil separate. If not shur, do the same with the other engine and you'll see the difference.

If fuel is getting into the oil, it'll likely be from an injector, fuel tube or fuel manifold problem.

good luck - Will
 
Thanks all. I'm getting a sample tomorrow and will have the results Saturday or Monday. I won't operate the boat until the source of contamination is identified and resolved. When I first experienced the increase in apparent oil level, I was told that the sources were either coolant or fuel. I learned it was coolant and hence the rebuild.

Question....what is it that the mechanic MAY have done in the course of disassembling and then re-building the engine (heads and cylinder kits) that would thereafter permit of the introduction of fuel into the lubricating system?

Thx
 
Most common is re using the fuel crossover tubes, after that injector issues. I would out of curiosity, re check oil in the tranny, most unlikely the problem but..be sure..
 
Thanks all. I'm getting a sample tomorrow and will have the results Saturday or Monday. I won't operate the boat until the source of contamination is identified and resolved. When I first experienced the increase in apparent oil level, I was told that the sources were either coolant or fuel. I learned it was coolant and hence the rebuild.

Question....what is it that the mechanic MAY have done in the course of disassembling and then re-building the engine (heads and cylinder kits) that would thereafter permit of the introduction of fuel into the lubricating system?

Thx

I had the same problem with my 45c it turned out to be cross over tube just not tight. Just be sure not to run it if the oil is thin there goes the lub ability and barings. I would advise changing the oil befor running after you find the leak.
We found the leak by putting pressure on the fuel line and it showed up in several places. After rebuilding the engines we found a leak on sea trial on both engines. I belive it is sorta commond practive to run a little and retighten the cross over tubes as well as the injectors. Your cituation is not uncommond as i understand it so do not get to excited if it is fuel... The very best of luck Tim
 
there is a specified torque setting for the tubes..if re used, they can leak, DD says, do not re use..
 
there is a specified torque setting for the tubes..if re used, they can leak, DD says, do not re use..

Correct Dennis i just did not want to bare the news
 
"----and he suggested that "making oil" was normal as material in the engine returned to solution with use."

The mech stands to make a fortune in the energy business with this discovery of how to make oil! Didn't he also discover cold fusion a few years back? :)

OK, seriously, he's blowing serious smoke here - there's a problem with the work he did. Engines don't make oil; if the level in the oil sump is rising, it's rising because something else is dumping into the sump that shouldn't be. As others have noted, the only possibilities (other than someone sneaking in and adding oil) are water/coolant or fuel. ;)
 
there is a specified torque setting for the tubes..if re used, they can leak, DD says, do not re use..

True, but have you ever tried to put a torque wrench on one of them?

I've reused mine, but I always clean up the area around them carefully and then run the engine with the valve cover off to observe for leaks.
 
Sniff the dipstick, you should be able to detect the diesel smell.
 
True, but have you ever tried to put a torque wrench on one of them?

I've reused mine, but I always clean up the area around them carefully and then run the engine with the valve cover off to observe for leaks.

I torque the jumpers every time. What is so difficult?
 
I bought the crows foot attachments but could not position them with a torque wrench. I can barely get an open end in there. How do you do it? Can you post a pic or two?
 

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