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Loved my hatteras for 10 years - now Viking ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter lumina
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lumina

Legendary Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2007
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1,388
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
48' YACHT FISHERMAN (1972 - 1975)
Hi all,

Had a hatteras yacht fish for 11 years, sold her 2 years ago, sad day in my life. Now looking to downsize. Looked at a 1990 40 Viking sport fish (38 model 39.9) with 6v71’s. Seemed like a nice boat.

Any old hatteras owners have experience or knowledge of Vikings of this era ie good, bad, ugly, big issues? even info like if its a cored or solid hull

Any constructive info would be helpful.......what to look out for with the 6v’s would be helpful as well they have 2000 hrs...
 
i'm pretty sure that vintage viking has a balsa cored hull, bottom and sides.
 
There is a member here who hasn’t posted in a while that had some info on older Vikings. Search Salt shaker and see if you can find his post about older Vikings.
 
One of our former active forum members told me some years ago that his son in law was looking at
43 and 44 Viking MY's and after checking out a bunch he decided against Viking because all of the one's
he checked out had major stringer problems. It seems that Viking used wood covered with fiberglass
in the construction of their boats at that period of time and most developed wood rot.....Be very careful
as the cost of a proper repair would be astronomical. Stick with Hatteras and be safe.......

Walt
 
Is there a Viking owners Group?
 
One of our former active forum members told me some years ago that his son in law was looking at
43 and 44 Viking MY's and after checking out a bunch he decided against Viking because all of the one's he checked out had major stringer problems. It seems that Viking used wood covered with fiberglass
in the construction of their boats at that period of time and most developed wood rot.....Be very careful
as the cost of a proper repair would be astronomical. Stick with Hatteras and be safe.......

Walt

I agree with what Walt says, stringer problems are common on these.
 
I just sold my 1982 40’ convertible that I owned for 20 years. It had 671TI’s and was a great boat. Major things to watch out for are the fuel tanks and windows that leak. I replaced both tanks and had some bulkhead repair work due to a window leak. Boat survey showed no rot in stringers or moisture anywhere. I was very pleased with the way the boat rode in the water. At 2100 RPMs It would cruise at 17 knots. Survey is a must but overall they are very good boats if they have been maintained. -Chris
 
A good friend has an ‘89 45 Viking sportfish. The 671’s are good engines and common, but remember that on that boat you’ll be running higher rpms more often, so you’ll probably get 3000-3500 hours out of them. My friend was quoted 42k to rebuild one in frame but we found another guy that did a fantastic job for about 30k. As for the hull itself, structurally it feels nice and solid. Definitely a quality boat. With that said it is very wet. Very wet. In any significant breeze, enough water hits the risen glass that you are driving with radar almost as if it were night.I would own one though. His is a fun boat! Just learn your radar.
 
About 10 years ago I paid to survey 2 different Vikings in that size range and age....both had water in the core along the sides and transom! Ended up with a 52C Hat.
 
A good friend has an ‘89 45 Viking sportfish. The 671’s are good engines and common, but remember that on that boat you’ll be running higher rpms more often, so you’ll probably get 3000-3500 hours out of them. My friend was quoted 42k to rebuild one in frame but we found another guy that did a fantastic job for about 30k. As for the hull itself, structurally it feels nice and solid. Definitely a quality boat. With that said it is very wet. Very wet. In any significant breeze, enough water hits the risen glass that you are driving with radar almost as if it were night.I would own one though. His is a fun boat! Just learn your radar.

$30K is a crazy high number for a 671TI in frame rebuild.... I've had three done over last 14 years and all were less than $9K.. perhaps there was additional work such as new heads... turbo replacement… ??

My mechanic is quoting $9000 right now for a basic in frame 671TI rebuild ….
 
We owned one of the first Vikings produced in fiberglass. It was a 1972 33 Ft Sportfish and I think it was like serial number 11 which we purchase new.

Kept it for 10 years and it was a solid, very reliable boat. Got to know a lot of other Viking owners and if I were to buy today, I probably would not buy anything older than an early 2000 MY boat.

Too many of them from the 70's & 80's had hull and/or stringer issues. Had the chance to buy our old Viking back about ten years ago but the keel was hogged and the hull had a high moisture content. I actually blame the previous owner for both issues and there are examples of Vikings from that era that have held up just fine.

I would hazard to guess that at least a third to maybe as many as a half of all the boats in our Yacht Club over 50 Ft are Vikings including a brand new 90 footer that arrived about two weeks ago.
 
Hi all,

Had a hatteras yacht fish for 11 years, sold her 2 years ago, sad day in my life. Now looking to downsize. Looked at a 1990 40 Viking sport fish (38 model 39.9) with 6v71’s. Seemed like a nice boat.

Any old hatteras owners have experience or knowledge of Vikings of this era ie good, bad, ugly, big issues? even info like if its a cored or solid hull

Any constructive info would be helpful.......what to look out for with the 6v’s would be helpful as well they have 2000 hrs...

I've got a 1988 Viking 48' freshwater convertible with DD 8V92's and love the boat. It does have hull, deck and side cored, solid bottom up to waterline. When I had the survey done it basically said below avg moisture readings on typical suspect areas. The wood work, hardware and mechanicals on these old Vikings are top notch as well. My brother had a 1979 HAT 43' for years, great boat as well, I just wanted more speed and the convertible style.
 
$30K is a crazy high number for a 671TI in frame rebuild.... I've had three done over last 14 years and all were less than $9K.. perhaps there was additional work such as new heads... turbo replacement… ??

My mechanic is quoting $9000 right now for a basic in frame 671TI rebuild ….

30k was including a per diem for the mechanic as he was from out of town. Still cheaper than the san diego "expert" that everyone recommended. The price included cylinder kits, new bearings rolled in (required lifting the back of the motor to remove the oil pan in the viking), new injectors, rebuilt turbo, rebuilt blower, and coolers serviced. Isn't that what one expects when doing an inframe?

Around here, it is very difficult to find a mechanic that will touch a job that is not done complete and to their satisfaction. I know guys in mexico will have an issue and get just one cylinder resleeved for very reasonable rates but I've not seen that in the states.
 
OceanJake-

My experience is that the following items would be beyond a basic in-frame rebuild and accounts for the differences in price... you could always opt for the "extras" if you wanted or needed them, but not required for the mechanic to fully warranty the repair...
  • new bearings rolled in (required lifting the back of the motor to remove the oil pan in the viking)
  • new injectors
  • rebuilt turbo
  • rebuilt blower
  • coolers serviced
    Per Diem Costs

 
Last edited:
OceanJake-

My experience is that the following items would be beyond a basic in-frame rebuild and accounts for the differences in price... you could always opt for the "extras" if you wanted or needed them, but not required for the mechanic to fully warranty the repair...
  • new bearings rolled in (required lifting the back of the motor to remove the oil pan in the viking)
  • new injectors
  • rebuilt turbo
  • rebuilt blower
  • coolers serviced
    Per Diem Costs

Always more expensive when it's in latin.
 

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