Left motor will not turn over

[Luckyducky]

With all the cruddy weather over the past few months I neglected to run my motors. I've been waiting for some warmer decent weather. So today was the day. Initially, the right motor started up after a prolonged start sequence, no problem. Left motor put out a few puffs of smoke, acted like it was going to lite off, then nothing. Then the right one quit. My boat is a 1981 37c with 671TI equipped with a reverso fuel filter priming system. Flipped the switch on the pump to add fuel, could not get it to send fuel. Check the impeller, it's good, It looks good. The impeller turns but will not draw fuel. Check the valves open. So I pulled the hose off the pump on the intake side and turned the pump on again. I put my finger over the intake to feel for suction, nothing. It makes noise. The cover over the impeller starts getting warm from spinning. Should I be able to feel suction from a reverso pump?

So I gave up on that... Did it the old fashion way, dumped fuel in the filters... Both fired right up. Let then run for about 30 minutes. All good until at the end of the day when I decided to run them one more time..

My port engine will not turn over. I can hear the a relay click when I push the start button. That relay is in the 12 volt electrical box on the bulkhead behind the port engine. I can see a voltage drop while I push the start button, can someone please enlighten me if there is another relay or fuse that controls the starter. There are two relays in that electrical box, one large one small, then a number of current limiters.

Has my starter taken a dump?

Please help, all will be greatly appreciated

 

[thoward]

Jump the starter solenoid.

 

[Luckyducky]

Not sure how to jump the starter solenoid. Is it a pumper wire from the big positive across to a smaller wire coming out of the solenoid???

 

[AV8]

From Ehow.com, this is for a car but the solenoid works the same way. You may need to improvise a bit but the below instructions are the basics.

Good Luck

Phil


Instructions
1
Pop the hood and locate the starter solenoid. It's typically on the fender well of the vehicle, near the battery.

2
Get out the screwdriver and touch the metal end to the post that leads to the starter, opposite to the one that leads to the battery. You're going to turn the screwdriver into a manual switch, bypassing the solenoid in the process.

3
Drop the other end of the screwdriver down, touching the metal on the shaft of the solenoid to both terminals on the solenoid. At the same time, have your assistant turn the ignition to start the vehicle. This will cause a lot of sparks and could pass electrical current through your body if you're not using a rubber-handled screwdriver, so be careful and don't touch the connections for long.

4
Quickly remove the screwdriver from the solenoid. If it's left on too long, it can arc weld itself to both terminals, which is a bad thing. At this point, the vehicle should be running. If not, repeat the process.

 

[workingonadream]

see if you have juice at the hot side of the solenoid. if you don't, your problem is likely between that control box and solenoid I don't know if there is a fuse in between, I would think that there is.

 

[Boatsb]

If the bendix is partially out the starter will not work. Turn the motor by hand to see if it drops back.

Using a screwdriver to cross terminals is not a good idea. It will weld across the mains. Either figure out where to energize the solenoid and do it at the proper terminal or get someone who knows how to do it.

Just think about all the sparks from 0000 cable on big batteries. Not my idea of fun.

 

[drburke]

I have nearly the same issue.

Scott, how do you "turn the motor by hand"?

Do you mean take out the starter, or is it accessible otherwise?

DAN

 

[Boatsb]

I have nearly the same issue.

Scott, how do you "turn the motor by hand"?

Do you mean take out the starter, or is it accessible otherwise?

DAN

Crank shaft. Big wrench or socket. if its hung you will hear it drop back.

 

[Tim Powell]

I have nearly the same issue.

Scott, how do you "turn the motor by hand"?

Do you mean take out the starter, or is it accessible otherwise?

DAN

That was a issue for me when we rolled in the main bearings. I learned how a big socket on the crank shaft did it for me. It made it easy grabbing more turning space. Best of luck. As mentioned there is a small fuse marked starting inside the big black box with the battery switches on and off. It happends to mine from time to time i have tried to find out what is causing the little fuse to blow with no luck....

 

[saltshaker]

How much of a voltage drop? Did you try the parallel switch? Could be a dead battery.

 

[Tim Powell]

how much of a voltage drop? Did you try the parallel switch? Could be a dead battery.

good idear jack that is what its for!!!

 

[drburke]

That was a issue for me when we rolled in the main bearings. I learned how a big socket on the crank shaft did it for me. It made it easy grabbing more turning space. Best of luck. As mentioned there is a small fuse marked starting inside the big black box with the battery switches on and off. It happends to mine from time to time i have tried to find out what is causing the little fuse to blow with no luck....

Awesome!

Thanks guys.

And I did buy some "vente" size tools, but may be spending too much time at Starbucks!

DAN

 

[Luckyducky]

I had better than 13 v to the one inch positive cable at the starter. On the bridge the meter would drop a volt or so. The parallel switch was the same. I removed the starter last night and took it to the shop this morning. Bench test and it ran as it should. I did not know about the bendix being partially engaged would preclude it from operating, so I suspect that was the case. Going to replace the solenoid on the starter and overhaul (look trough) it since I've got it out. Does anyone know if there is a fuse between the relay in the 12 motor panel and the starter solenoid?

 

[saltshaker]

As Tim mentioned earlier, there is a Little fuse inside the panel where the battery switches are. Not all Hatts are set up this way but most are. Remove the small screws at the top of the panel and the door will hinge down. Look for the fuse marked start. More than once this was the problem for many no starts. A couple of years ago another HOFer had the same issue, rebuilt the starter, solenoid and was looking at potential wiring issues when I told him to check the fuse. He was aprehensive but he took the fuse from the other panel and put it in the bad one. I was on the phone with him when he fired the engine up. Don't overlook the simple stuff as that's is often what's wrong.

 

[Luckyducky]

I'm going looking for that fuse this evening, thanks for that info, I'm going to get a picture of the panel

 

[saltshaker]

The panel we are talking about is the one at the top of this pic. This is the ER of a 37C so I suspect yours will be similar.

 

[Tim Powell]

I'm going looking for that fuse this evening, thanks for that info, I'm going to get a picture of the panel

Do not feel bad this is called Hateducation 101 and its free on this site. The fuse is definately a sneaker...... Cought me not looking rode on one engine after stopping to bottom fish.

 

[Luckyducky]

Yes mine are identical, is it a small white solid buss fuse or a larger 3 in current limiter?

 

[Tim Powell]

Yes mine are identical, is it a small white solid buss fuse or a larger 3 in current limiter?

Origional is white as i remember not sure but they are about 6 amps or less can not remember as i have bumped them up as i have had 2 blow. DO NOT KNOW WHAT THE HELLO IS CAUSING IT
They are suppose to be slow blow. THEY ARE HARD TO TELL IF BLOWN USE VOLT METER TO CHECK, iF NOT BLOWN
CHECK THE CONNECTION ON EACH END OF THE FUSE.

 

[Luckyducky]

Jack,
do you know if that fuse controls the relay in the panel? When I press the start button I can hear that relay engaging.