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Leak on water line on the aft deck

  • Thread starter Thread starter nyrussell
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nyrussell

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Apr 7, 2006
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Hatteras Model
40' DOUBLE CABIN-Series I (1986 - 1989)
When we took off for Florida with our new wee one and Erin this past Jan. - Feb we had the water line to the aft deck faucet, cold only break during the cold at the water filter break and then leak when I turned on the water upon our return.

I have since removed the filter etc... capped the line Somewhat and now that it is getting warmer am looking hard at the whole issue. First the cap works, but it is damp next to the cap. Second, it is taking forever for the plywood to dry out (I just pulled the screws from the aft shower and it seems to be soaked there. The top of the shower is a thin Formica/? ?) The water line cannot be traced on the other side without pulling the headliner nor can the top of the shower be removed it seems without destroying it. Same with the headliner, as it is stapled up.

Earlier this winter we lost our water heater, so I am looking at pex to replace all the water lines (red/blue accordingly). But the issue for now is drying out the soaked plywood without destroying anything (hopefully). Any suggestions or help will be mightily appreciated. (Lots of help = a dinner maybe)

Noel
 
I admire you.For those here who dont know we have met.The challanges of raising kids from a young age in the best of times alude me but you are doing this on a Rather Small Hatt.No hot water?You have very large external appengeses to do this .Where are you and what are your present surcomstances?Robby
 
Robby,

Still in the NYC Metro Area. As for the hot water, we would not be showering on board in the winter anyways... we get water delivery twice a week and 110 gallons a pop would not last long...

Noel
 
You can use PEX, but if you desire copper, try "Sharkbite" fittings, which are very easy to install and are proven in the field on US Submarines. I have used several in my home plumbing, without issue, including one pipe that wobbles a little, but without leaks.
 
You can use PEX, but if you desire copper, try "Sharkbite" fittings, which are very easy to install and are proven in the field on US Submarines. I have used several in my home plumbing, without issue, including one pipe that wobbles a little, but without leaks.

I have them in my radiant floor. Work well. But I need to know more about the top of the shower... And where the line goes in etc... to get it out.
 
I also need to re-plumb and I have used "Sharkbite" fittings on several remodels in houses. They work exceedingly well. Question, will all the "Sharks" need to be connected to the bonding system? If not,definitely the way to go.
 
noel, on my '72 58yf that line runs across the hallway, under the headliner, from the master head even with the back wall of the master closet, then up to the sink and icemaker. hope this helps. not sure where it is in the master head, i didn't have to remove the headliner in there. bigbill
 
Not sure, but if they are alone then there should not be a problem right. IE not near any other metals....
 
Pictures: 1-? The first one is the "bar" on the aft deck, the second is the entrance, the third is the capped line and where it heads (seems it is not straight down after all), the fourth is the cover (need to figure out a way to gasket it), the fifth is the next access point I think (yikes, electrical stuff), the sixth is the shower where the water first came in, the last is the headline just outside the shower...
 

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Okay, I need to move the couch (again to trace the water line I think... Any ideas as it seems to head to the port side of the flybridge). Also, babout the wood above the top of the shower stall etc... Git rot? or how do I pull that down without ruining it etc... Same for the head liner?

Yesterday, they turned the water back on... weee, and here goes the whole water system fix...

Noel
 

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