jabsco impeller help

[seacolt]

I am changing impeller on my jabsco raw water pump 871TI, Last time I changed the impeller on the other engine I had a problem with the new impeller, I could not get the cover on, it was just A hair to big so I ended up using an older used one which is working fine. So now I'm having the same problem. I got A new impeller from part place matching with engine number. The one I removed is blue in color and has nine fins and also has a round recessed area at the spline. The new one is black, has 12 fins and the area around the spline also has a recessed area BUT it had four small raised spots that are in that area in the recessed area. This is where I think my problem is. In the pump itself at the spline there is a rubber seal at the back of the pump , I think this sits in the recessed area on the impeller, is this why i'm having problems why the impeller is not going all the way in ? and is that rubber piece in the pump a seal or can it be removed ? or did my parts guy give me the wrong impeller ?. Last question; is there any tips for installing new impeller like priming or lubrication ? Hope I have'nt confused the issue.

 

[Brian Degulis]

I don't think there are any Impellers that are close in size there is a long and a short about 3/4" diffrence. If your talking just a hair like 1/32" or so that's suposed to happen the cover will compress it. You can lube with dish soap.

Brian

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Dont forget the seal button in the center! ws

 

[Starman]

seacolt

Send me a pic and measurements of your blue impeller. I have several blue ones in stock at swan point marina, and may have just what you need.

Send the email to swanpointmarina@hotmail.com and I will check it in the am.

 

[Nonchalant1]

I agree that it always looks like there's a hair of the rubber left sticking out, but it's compressed by the end plate when you put it on. I think the vanes get distorted by pushing the impeller in and they straighten out when you run it. I crank the engine over 1/2 turn or so by holding down the stop button and briefly hitting the start button, that helps straighten them out some. I also put an oak dowel against the bronze spline and tap it with a hammer. That's always enough to get the end plate on and sealed. Then run it and check for leaks.

The black seal at the back can be the new type or the old type. If it isn't leaking, leave it in.

Doug Shuman

 

[(Nobody You Know)]

Squirt a little Dawn dish detergent in one of the ports before you turn the engine over - gives much needed lubrication to (first time) impellor fins.

 

[newinlet]

Seacolt,
I use tie wraps to fold over the fins on the impeller, I also lube it up with dish soap. When I get it 2/3 in I remove the wraps and push it in. I do not think an impeller would be only slightly larger. Hope this helps

 

[seacolt]

Thanks for the help, the new black impeller went in fine after I screwed the plate on. All your tips worked great. Hardest part was removing the old one. My knuckles looked like hamburger. Do they make a puller ?

 

[Finalee]

Yes they do.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

These guys come in two sizes... and they dont always work. Sometimes its just as easy to pull the pump if you can manage the 3" hose. If you get the hose off, put some neversieze on it for re-assembly, then it comes off easy next time!. It takes me 5 minutes to pull my pump of the 12-71s. Dope on the gaskets also and you can re-use them as well. ws

 

[chris]

These guys come in two sizes... and they dont always work. Sometimes its just as easy to pull the pump if you can manage the 3" hose. If you get the hose off, put some neversieze on it for re-assembly, then it comes off easy next time!. It takes me 5 minutes to pull my pump of the 12-71s. Dope on the gaskets also and you can re-use them as well. ws

Bill
Any tips on getting the stuck 3" hose off the barbs without destroying it.
Chris

 

[NAN-PO 41]

Snap on tools makes a hose removal tool. It looks like an icepick with a 90 degree bend in it. It slides in the end of the hose and you work it around the barb fitting to break the grip of the hose. Not the perfect answer but it helps.
Fred

 

[yachtsmanbill]

That Snap On tool works 99% of the time. I actually bought mine at the HOMO for 4.95. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!
The inlet hose can be a CORK SMOKER to get off. Youll have 3 choices;
the tool ( seperate the hose a bit and get some PB in there... it helps! ), unbolt the pump or inlet EL so you can twist and pull, or do what I did, there was enough slack that I took the hacksaw and cut 2" off the end of the hose. The 2" stuff was a real PITA even on the deck! I am moving my strainers so I had some to spare.
Its imperative to put some neversieze on before re-assembly. If your pump has barbs on it, they arent very pronounced... just a bump.
Also consider putting a winterizing / flushing / emergency bilge pump "T" in. The pics show the two 4 bolt flanges on the top of the pump and how mine is "nestled" among all the other stuff. Make some new gaskets and dope them and the bolts. I also always run a tap in the threads to get old permatex / RTV out so you can re-assembly almost by finger tip. ws

 

[yachtsmanbill]

This shows the inlet nipple on the pump in-situ, the strainer with the cut off piece still attached, and the 2-1/2 NPT nipple (almost 2-7/8 OD ) with a 3" hose squeezed down on it. Notice the rusty wire... thats one reason I didnt mind trimming it back a bit.
I refuse to argue with inanimate stuff. You can spend hours making hamburger out of your hands or take it apart to work on it like neandertal.
If you look in the labor rate book, DD gives you .75 hours to change that impeller. Yah right! ws

 

[Trojan]

I drove a screwdriver between the hose and barb. Then squirted the end of the hose where the screwdriver was to get some Windex penetration. I then used a large pair of channel lock pliers and started trying to rotate the hose at the end of the barb. I also heated the hose and tapped it with a hammer. After a few tries with the pliers it came free. Crap will build up around the end of the barb and hose lock it on. After that it now is removed rather easy once I loosen the clamps. Good luck.

BILL

 

[REBrueckner]

I like all the above suggestions...they work well.

When inserting a flat screw driver between hose and barb/pipe, go slow and apply moderate pressure as far around the perimeter as possible by reinserting the screwdriver at multiple locations. Just enough to break the seal between hose and pipe. I like to use a bit of grease when reassembling as it makes it easy five years later when you have to repeat. Silicone gasket compound is another option to take up tiny imperfections.

Are blue impellers ok these days? In the past, blue BARCO impellers failed with a few hours use. I only use black. As I recall a 12 vane impeller is the current standard variety; older ones may have been nine.