ITT Jabsco Spotlight Again

[Pete]

Finally got around to disassembling my spotlight to get the rechroming done. Being a new year I have a resolution to ask questions before I go force something and live to regret it. So, please take a look at this picture I borrowed from a previous post by Sky.

You are looking upward inside the base of the spotlight. Above the nylon gear you will notice two small rust spots. On my spotlight these are rivets that secure a bracket to hold the upper electric motor. It appears that these rivets (4 in total) have to be removed to get the guts out of the housing for rechroming. I hope I am wrong and someone has found a way to disassemble this housing without drilling out rivets. Any help would be appreciated.

Pete

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Pete,
My lower housing is painted. Only the light itself and the yoke are chromed.

 

[Pete]

Well, easy come, easy go on the New Year's resolutions. I decided that it was time to return to my old ways, and dive in with or without any idea of what I am doing. Took a couple of hours, but all the guts are out of the base without breaking anything. Parts will go to UPS tomorrow to get rechromed. Real test will be if they all go back together and it works. Time will tell.

Pete

 

[Bugsy]

Where are you having the re-chroming done and is the price mentionable? I was questioning whether to re-chrome or replace my 8 throttle & gear handles (4 up/4 down).

Thx.

 

[Pete]

I do not have a price yet for the spot light. Will in a couple of days after they get it. I did the compass binnacle a couple of weeks back and it costs $175 plus shipping. I am using Hanlon plating in Richmond, VA. They did an excellent job on the binnacle.

On your control levers, I would look at stainless replacements.

Pete

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Pete,
How far did you break down the spotlight for chroming? Like this?

Did you remove any of the rivets like these?

I think I'll chrome my base as well. It's soaking in some stripper right now.

 

[Pete]

Sky, I did not remove any rivets. My parts look basically the same. Mine is a 1976 which has a fixed rear cover. Two items I do not see is the flexible electrical conduit and the round elevation gear. I also sent those in. Talked to the platers yesterday, and they were OK with the parts as I sent them.

Pete

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Pete,
My electrical from the base to the light is just a black cord with no conduit. The gear is black plastic.

I will be taking this in to my local plater this week. If he has any problem with it or if his price is out of line, I may need to know who you are using.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I called Carlisle and Finch to see what a new spotlight would cost just for fun. They told me that a 10" chrome unit similar to our Rayline would be $5300. Of course that is the smallest light that they make. So, a 12" is $6000 and a Xenon with focusable beam is a mere $14000.

With that in mind, I delivered my Rayline parts to the plater today. They quoted $310. Not bad, but the estimated completion isn't until early March. I sure hope I can remember how to put that thing back together by then.

 

[Pete]

Carlisle and Finch are apparently real proud of their new lights. $310 sounds like a better price than I got. I included the rope capstan and the chain gypsy end plate from my Simpson/Lawerence windlass and the price was $450. So, I would estimate the light parts are in the $400 range for me. I am on a 2 to 3 week turnaround, which works out good for my schedule.

The model I have includes a focus adjustment for the beam. May be the reason that the back and sides of the light housing are one piece. BTW, the focus mechanism is a knob on an #10 threaded shaft in the center of the back, that deflects the internal reflector. By turning it you can push or pull on the center of the reflector. I would estimate less than $3 of parts are involved.

Pete

 

[SKYCHENEY]

My reflector is an actual parabolic mirror. It is glass and will not deflect to well without breaking. Thanks for the suggestion, however.

 

[Pete]

I am next to request some help with searchlight bulbs. As you can see in the photo below, my light uses a round 100 watt 12 volt dual contact bayonet bulb. The bulb base is marked SR 1020, which has not helped a lot in getting additional information. According to notes from the PO the light is rated at 156K CP.

While I am rebuilding and rechroming the light, I would also like to bring the bulb to current technology, hopefully 10X the CP output. Anyone have a recommendation on new bulb or adapter/bulb that would help me get this updated. The wiring to the light and volume of air in the light are sufficient to support many more additional watts of power if required.

BTW, Sky, upon further inspection of the focus mechanism, I have determined that the reflector (chromed brass) does not flex, the light bulb socket actually slides in and out, repositioning the bulb in relation to the reflector.

Pete

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Pete,
I have purchased an adapter from dual contact bayonet to the 2 prong style for the halogen bulbs. I use it in my 32v overhead fixtures. That might work for you.

Look up the adapters first, then search for bulbs that will fit the new base that you can transition to.

FWIW, here is what my bulb holder looks like:

It holds a 200w/32v halogen bulb.


And here is the reflector:

 

[oldboat]

pete,
can you pull the bulb out and show a picture of just the bulb?
are you sure it is 12V? the only references i can find for a sr 1020 all say it is a 24V bulb.

 

[SaltysMarine]

I think its too week for 12V! You can find more better than that.

 

[Pete]

Here is a picture of the bulb. I have confirmed that SR 1020 is the marking on the base and there is no doubt it is a 12 volt bulb.

Pete

 

[oldboat]

pete,

the closest bulbs i can find are

for 12 volts
12V, 96 watts, DA15D base
part # 920 IF 12V 8A
$102.00ea
http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/920|if|12v|8a~usa.html

if it is 32volts
trade # 1238
112 watts, DA15D base
$25.15ea
mcmaster carr part # 9527T089,
http://www.mcmaster.com/

if it is 120 volts
GE 100G16 1/2/29DC
100 watts, double contact bayonet base
$18.96ea
grainger part #1E093
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ww...rch_type=itemnum&action=Go!&QueryString=1e093

i forgot to mention that if you can switch to a single contact bayonet base your bulb is here

http://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_Description.asp_Q_intProductID_E_40545

12v, 100w, $5.99ea

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Got my spotlight parts back today from the plate shop. Wow are they purdy! Now I just have to try to remember how to put this thing back together.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Finally got this thing all put together. Now I'll have to wire it up and mount it back on the boat to see if it works. It sure looks good though and it beats $6000 for a new one.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Mounted the light on the boat this weekend. It looked great, but I had trouble getting it to move. The light came on and the tilt function worked some of the time, but the rotate did not work at all. I guess I should have looked at the motors and clutches while I had it apart but it seemed to work fine before disassembly and I didn't think it was necessary.

I now have the light back home and I'll have to tear it apart again. Both motors could be heard running, but the clutches or gears must have been slipping. I have read MikeP's thread on rebuilding these, but does anyone else have any pointers? I really hate pulling this apart as I don't want to mess up my new chrome. Oh well, that's the way it goes.

Other questions are: Could I have done something during assembly that would have affected the operation? Top retainer too loose/tight?

The light seems to swing from side to side very easily by hand. Is that right? It doesn't seem like it should do that.