Is there a Spurling pipe to buy for the anchor chain?

[brico]

On my 1980 Hatteras 37 Convertible the anchor chain enters/exits the chain locker through a 90 degree chrome polished bronze fitting attached to the back and to the Port side of the bow sprit platform and a hole drilled through both the bowsprit and the deck but Hatteras people forgot to seal this hole and if they did they have done poor job.

Since they have not used any Spurling pipe all the way through the bowsprit and the deck opening, the rainwater eventually made it into the balsa core between deck and underdeck fibreglass and is all mushy and wet (hard to figure out the extent of it but for sure 4-5 inches around it). After days of relentless drizzle rain here in PNW it occasionally drips into the chain locker and into the forward bilge under the vee-beerth where chain locker drains into.

I am thinking of the best option to stop this leak. Fitting a steel or bronze pipe through the bowsprit and the deck opening, but not too long so the chain does not snag on it on exit, perhaps just 1/2" deep into the chainlocker. Plastic pipe would be easiest but not sure how long would it last with the chain hitting its edges when coming out.

Can this be bought out there? Mine I believes 2" diameter opening.

 

[Glory]

I think anything, anybody sealed 37 years ago might be leaking by now. Your roof, water heater, auto radiator, garden hose, you get the picture.

 

[Dan Mapes]

You might consider sounding the deck. If it has been bad for a while most of the balsa is probably gone. When we noticed a leak in ours, it was far gone. The balsa was missing from the point of the bow back to the dunage boxes on the deck.
I hate to say it but if you are keeping the boat have a close look at the deck with a sounding hammer.

 

[bobk]

On my 1980 Hatteras 37 Convertible the anchor chain enters/exits the chain locker through a 90 degree chrome polished bronze fitting attached to the back and to the Port side of the bow sprit platform and a hole drilled through both the bowsprit and the deck but Hatteras people forgot to seal this hole and if they did they have done poor job.

Since they have not used any Spurling pipe all the way through the bowsprit and the deck opening, the rainwater eventually made it into the balsa core between deck and underdeck fibreglass and is all mushy and wet (hard to figure out the extent of it but for sure 4-5 inches around it). After days of relentless drizzle rain here in PNW it occasionally drips into the chain locker and into the forward bilge under the vee-beerth where chain locker drains into.

I am thinking of the best option to stop this leak. Fitting a steel or bronze pipe through the bowsprit and the deck opening, but not too long so the chain does not snag on it on exit, perhaps just 1/2" deep into the chainlocker. Plastic pipe would be easiest but not sure how long would it last with the chain hitting its edges when coming out..

Can this be bought out there? Mine I believes 2" diameter opening.

When I had my foredeck repaired, my mechanic welded or braised a pipe directly to the 90 degree fitting which extends about 1/2" into the chain locker.

I agree, sound the deck with a hammer AND also use a moisture meter to find the extent of the core damage and fix it. I found my problem before it extended beyond the anchor platform. The winch bolts were also leaking. The entire area was dug out and back filled with a thin epoxy paste. No problem since. BTW, this is why I recommend checking the boat with a moisture meter annually as part of your PM program. You find problems before they become huge. In my case the repair, including re-coring the platform was less than three boat units.

Bobk
Chateau de Mer 48' Series I MY
Port St Lucie, FL

 

[SKYCHENEY]

When I reworked mine, I put in a piece of PVC pipe.

 

[brico]

When I had my foredeck repaired, my mechanic welded or braised a pipe directly to the 90 degree fitting which extends about 1/2" into the chain locker.

I agree, sound the deck with a hammer AND also use a moisture meter to find the extent of the core damage and fix it. I found my problem before it extended beyond the anchor platform. The winch bolts were also leaking. The entire area was dug out and back filled with a thin epoxy paste. No problem since. BTW, this is why I recommend checking the boat with a moisture meter annually as part of your PM program. You find problems before they become huge. In my case the repair, including re-coring the platform was less than three boat units.

Bobk
Chateau de Mer 48' Series I MY
Port St Lucie, FL

How would you go about recoring? Do I need to open from the top of from within the chain locker? I do not really fancy cutting the deck open and would rather open it from within for cosmetic reason.

 

[GCSI]

Search for threads started by "Dan Mapes". He gives all the gruesome details of doing a core from the inside of chain locker.....

 

[bobk]

How would you go about recoring? Do I need to open from the top of from within the chain locker? I do not really fancy cutting the deck open and would rather open it from within for cosmetic reason.

That depends on the size of the damage area. Mine was small and the bad balsa was dug out via the various holes that were already in the deck. A piece of thin fiberglass was screwed and sealed to the bottom deck area in the anchor locker to contain the epoxy, and then the epoxy was worked in. All the holes need to be re-drilled.

If you have a large area you may be better to cut off the top of the deck laminate, repair with blocks of Coosa board or marine ply and reinstall the top skin followed by non-skid. As GCSI suggested, do a search to read others' experiences.

Bobk