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InjectaDeck new product? For soft decks

  • Thread starter Thread starter krush
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krush

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
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41' CONVERTBLE-Series I (1964 - 1971)
A guy I know fixing up a Luhr's he bought cheap told me about this stuff: https://injectadeck.com/

I don't have a soft deck on the Hatt, but I may try it on some of my other clunker boats.

Injectadeck is a carefully engineered structural marine foam and adhesive that cures hard as wood, quickly and easily repairing soft spots on your boat’s fiberglass deck caused by rot of the underlying core. Injectadeck saves you from having to peel up your deck and replace it – costing thousands of dollars and weeks or months of time. With Injectadeck, your deck can be fixed in a single afternoon – Really!

Injectadeck is exactly what it sounds like – you drill a few holes in the deck, inject the two-part product into the holes, and it quickly expands to fill the void left by rot, making your deck strong, solid, and stable once again. It is water-catalytic and becomes more adhesive when it contacts moisture, absorbing wood pulp and adhering to the fiberglass layers. Traditional adhesives (epoxy, etc.) simply cannot do this. Injectadeck requires just a few holes to be drilled and is even known to reverse moisture meter tests by displacing and absorbing moisture inside the deck
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Small_Kit-2-300x228.jpg


Injectadeck is not meant for tiny soft spots, it is meant for significant soft sections of decks, even areas that feel like they will break through soon. Injectadeck has saved decks that actually tear and sound like ripping cloth when you walk on them. Injectadeck needs only a void or mold to contain it. If the area you plan to repair has a rip in it you can patch the rip first and create the mold.

Overview – the Injectadeck repair: Drilling a hole at the low point of the 2 ply fiberglass sandwich, or in the rear bilge hatch on the underside of the deck will allow excess water to drain out of your boat’s deck. Then, on top of the deck you drill holes through the top layer of fiberglass and just the wood (not through the bottom fiberglass layer) and inject the foam down into the void. Injectadeck will travel along the surface filling the spaces. Once you’ve pumped a shot in, you wait a few min and then can then gently step on the area and shape/distribute the foam if a bulge has developed since it has another 5-minute work time. After 20 min you can “stomp-shape” it. The foam hardens after 30 min. Gassing stops in 12 hrs. Next step is to fill the deck holes then paint new deck texture on to complete the repair. Done!

Injectadeck can be used two ways:

To “Skim” heavy gauge (filling between the wood and upper layer of fiberglass) or,
“Fill the “UnderVoid”, between the wood and only the lower fiberglass layers (best).

Note – On the thin fiberglass decks of powerboats “skimming” above the wood is not recommended since it can create bulging. Injection under the wood, to fill the rotted-out voids is best for restoring the original supportive feel. Injectadeck is water catalytic and when the process is performed properly with drain holes for displaced water you can often pass a marine survey moisture meter test where it previously failed!
Click to expand...

https://injectadeck.com/product-features/
 
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Whose had experience with this product? What was your findings and recommendations?
 
I know it says you don’t need to get the water out but I am skeptical, maybe that’s because I just did my deck the hard way.
 
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I have been following these discussions and googled quite a bit because I have a soft spot on the bow. The reviews seem to fall into two categories. People who have used it and are happy with the results, and people who have not used it and say it is a horrible idea.

Cutting and peeling off top skin that is in perfect condition just doesn't appeal to me. I haven't made a call yet, that won't happen till it gets cooler, but I am leaning towards epoxy rather than cutting up the deck.
 
This appears to be closed cell foam. If it works you will be very happy with it, if it does not you will have a big mess on your hands to fix.
 
I emailed the Injectadeck company a couple of years ago when looking at a boat with a soft core near the anchor pulpit. They told me it was not structural and didn't think it would work if I used the area for holding the anchor. The windlass is supposed to be for pulling not tying the anchor off to but none the less I backed off this stuff for that application. I thought about trying it on a soft spot in the bridge but still haven't found anyone that has used the stuff that wasn't promoting the product
 
I haven't decided on Injectadeck, there are other products out there, but here is an actual user of Injectadeck...

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/1001337-injectadeck-tiara-tips-2.html

It looks like it is legit for basic repairs. In my case, I guess I would have to look closer at the how the pulpit is connected to the boat. Also, I would come up from underneath, which I have seen written about here by others. If I were inclined to drill a bunch of holes in the top side, I'd just as soon cut and peel it instead and replace the core. But the object is to not have to mess with the topside.
 
Interesting. I am curious about how it is 5 years from now. Guess time will tell.
 
Well, there ARE water-catalyzed two-part urethane foams, so maybe it does work. I think the problem would be that if there is water still in there, the adjacent core would continue to decay, wouldn't it?
 
jim rosenthal said:
Well, there ARE water-catalyzed two-part urethane foams, so maybe it does work. I think the problem would be that if there is water still in there, the adjacent core would continue to decay, wouldn't it?
Click to expand...

Correct
 
jim rosenthal said:
Well, there ARE water-catalyzed two-part urethane foams, so maybe it does work. I think the problem would be that if there is water still in there, the adjacent core would continue to decay, wouldn't it?
Click to expand...

I guess it depends on how far gone the section was to begin with. I mean, if there was still a lot of core in there then you wouldn't get much epoxy in, which the poster I linked seemed to have a problem with and decided to drill a denser hole pattern. If you get enough epoxy in, then I don't think additional decay is an issue, at least not in the repair area. If water was still getting in to the areas you didn't repair, then yeah, that will rot away later as well.

My only reservation against using it isn't that I don't think it will work, I think it will work incredibly well, once you pump enough in. My reservation is that it's a Hatteras, and they didn't build them that way. I just need to get over that.:)
 
In a cored deck the strength comes mostly from the skins and their separation. Balsa, or even divinycell, isn’t strong but once bonded to outer glass skins the result is a rigid laminate

As long as this product bonds well with the existing glass, it will just become another core.
 
If I had a do over I may have drilled some holes just smaller then a wet dry vacuum hose, ran a few vacuums pulling air through the deck in various places to dry it out. Then repaired the holes and then used a product like this.
 
Seapig100 said:
If I had a do over I may have drilled some holes just smaller then a wet dry vacuum hose, ran a few vacuums pulling air through the deck in various places to dry it out. Then repaired the holes and then used a product like this.
Click to expand...

This sounds like an excellent idea. They sell those cheap throw away vacs at HD etc that I would
probably use. Let them run for several days....if they crap out, after a few days that's OK as long as
it dried out the core. Sure seems like an easy fix for not a lot of boat bucks.

Walt
 
I did something similar to that years ago on my Hatteras, when I found a poorly done keel repair (Bondo) which I had to do over, because there was water in the hollow keel.

I made 3/4" hole at each end of the hollow keel and drained all the water out. Then I bought a cheap wet dry vac, exactly as said, hooked it up to pull air through the hollow keel, and ran it for a week or two. (it actually survived this treatment) When it was done, it was dry inside, and I repaired the damaged areas, cutting out the Bondo and using West epoxy and generous amounts of fiberglass cloth. That repair is still in there and seems fine. It has been at least twenty years now.
 
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