Imron or Awlgrip

[ohiohatteras]

Still haven't decided on the hull color.....
Now I'm looking for $.02 on which type of paint to use....The guy I have doing it usually uses Awlgrip, but says he can use Imron if I want...
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Todd

 

[MikeP]

They are both excellent. Imron has a much greater color choice but that probably doesn't matter at all for this application. Imron is more widely used in the transportation industry but it's been around a lot longer.

Be careful re Awlgrip 2000. It is not as robust as Awlgrip. The key thing to look at is what solvents can be used on the surface of cured paint. Awlgrip and Imron can handle lacquer thinner, MEK, toluene, and other agressive solvents. Awlgrip 2000 cannot. Imron also has a similar "new" formula available. though I can't recall what the call it. I would stay away from either of them and use regular Imron or Awlgrip.

 

[67hat34c]

I was amazed to see in the care instructions for Awlgrip that Acitone is an acceptable cleaner, I cant think of a thing that hurts it. also very good high temp paint as Imron is. can use it for a top quality engine paint. Going to Imron the gen when i pull it this winter.

Not to get off of the subject but I am experimenting with automotive clear coats. Got some Dupont clear and did my wood helm seat. came out very nice. just sprayed my salon table, again it looks like glass. Our rear bulkhead is original wood, plan to strip it and clearcoat it. I would think a 2 part coating like this would be very tough and much more durable than varnish. friend of a friend claims he coated his wood over 5 yrs ago and still going strong.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Yeah, Imron is tough stuff. We were in the Ready-mixed concrete business for 31years and we painted all of our trucks with Imron. It was the only paint that you could clean the concrete spatter of off. And to do this we had to use muratic acid and a brush. Even after years of acid baths the paint was still going strong, although the shine was gone.

 

[Capten]

I have always heard that Awlgrip is a very hard/strong paint but much more difficult to repair/touch up than Imron. Imron is supposed to be a bit more forgiving. We touch up and paint with Imron all the time and the results are typically very good.

I have also heard that it is often more important to use the paint that your painter of choice is most familiar and comfortable with. And as with any paint project - the prep is perhaps the most important step!

 

[OldHatt45]

Have been painting my 45C with Imron 5000 overthe last few years. Excellent results. I believe this is the Imron that MikeP996 couldn't remember. Did the Transom 6 years ago, the Bridge 5 years ago, the cockpit 3 years ago and will be doing the deckhouse in the spring. So far you can't tell which part was painted when. All look great.

And yes, the Prep work is the key to the kingdom.

OldHatt45

 

[solanderi]

Just for grins,

What is the price range for the prep, paint and labor for a total repaint on a 45 sportfish?

 

[micky]

Solanderi, I painted my 20 CC Shamrock completely with Imron this past winter and the total for the prep work, labor and paint, etc. was $9000

 

[Spellbound]

Just had a complete job done on my 52'. Checked prices and references from Stuart down to Miami and the best I came up with was $900 per ft for everything including new screws when reinstalling rubrail, etc. Job took 10 weeks.

 

[seacolt]

Was also wondering what a paint job will cost me for my 46c (ballpark). I am getting a price next week from yard. I believe they use allcraft, not exactly sure about the name. I will check into that. These guys are the best around the north-east.

 

[OldHatt45]

Regarding prices for Painting and prep. There are a lot of factors involved. A few of these factors are:
1. How fair are the surfaces?
2. Are there a lot of fittings to be taken off or taped over.
3. What kind of Paint are you starting with.
4. Are there any areas that need repair (Soft spots in Deck, etc.)
5. Are there a lot of "corners" such as around exterior cabinets, tackle
centers, etc.?
6. What shape is the paint you currently have?
7. How far do you want the Painter/Fiberglass Guy to go?

All of these things and more will account for the final price. I have been quoted $17,000.00 as an estimate for prep and painting the Hull of my 45C. This is if I do Nothing and they do it all. And I've been told the hull is in very good shape. The fiberglass guy I use, is more of a friend then just another "supplier", so I suspect I'm getting a pretty good price.

OldHatt45

 

[67hat34c]

regarding touch up.

Awlgrip when sprayed is the final finish, you cant buff it out so you cant touch it up and blend it. With exception of awgrip 2000, however it is not very durable.

As with any finish, prep is 90% of the job. How the finish looks and wears depends on how well the boat is prepped. removal of everyting and sanding down past multi layers of old paints etc. Awlgrip process is cleaning, wash first before sanding, then do chemical clean, you dont want to sand and grind impurities into the sub finish surface. Sanding with various grits until smooth and free from minor blemishes. major ones will need fairing. priming and sanding between primers(there are several primers), then finish coat.

By reading the application guide from awlgrip, you can see why it is so expensive to have someone do the work. If you can try to do some or all the prep work yourself, have the yard apply the primer and top coat

 

[MikeP]

Nearly $48,000 to paint a 52ft boat ($900 x 52)? Holy Moly!!

I better either sell this 53 and buy a 24ft Bayliner or break out the spray gun when the time comes. The primer and paint probably won't total $1500 and my labor's free.

Fortunately, the 1997 Imron on the boat still looks like it was painted yesterday.

 

[surfdancer45]

Depending on how handy you are, you can substantially reduce the cost if you can do the prep work yoursef (remove all fittings, prep current finish to include all repair to glass such as hairline cracks and sand, sand, sand). If you can paint the topsides (roll and tip or spray) and then have a professional paint the hull you can save big bucks. Lots of time and effort envolved but you will have lots of bucks left over to pay for diesel fuel.

 

[MikeP]

The largest boat I ever Imron prepped/painted was a 32 (up in Alaska) although I have prepped/painted semis with Imron which probably have at least as much surface area as our 53.

I'd rather not do the work but then again, $1500 vs. $50,000 is a mighty powerful incentive...

 

[Walter P]

I have had a couple of Hatteras' Awlgripped, the last only a few years ago in the northern Chesapeake area. Fantastic job including some repair to stress cracks etc. Price were $18K for one and about $26K for the other. Oh yeah, they were both 43 Hatteras MY's with FB. The most recent was the cheaper also - so go figure... Shop around but be sure of the quality and reputation of the provider. Remember if you want first quality grade A Oats it will cost $$$$ per lb, if you can be satisfied with Oats that have passed through the horse before, it will usually be cheaper.

The absolutely best Awlgrip jobs I have seen have come from Slane Marine. My present 48 Hatt will go to Slane.

Walt......

 

[Maynard Rupp]

Awlgrip seems to have a harder and more impervious surface than Imron. having said that, our '86 36 Hat has factory Imron and still looks like new. With regard to the clear coatings, neither Awlgrip or Imron have any UV inhibitors. Use them inside only. Use Bristol Finish, Bristolfinish.com outside. Great stuff.

 

[Banshee36]

I painted my rig in 1999, with grip both topsides and the hull. If i had to do it over again I would shoot the topsides with grip and the hull with Imron.
My boat gets abused from charter customers, another few years it will be time to redo her .
Just my .25 cents .
JW

 

[MikeP]

Maybe I misunderstand the comment re UV protection but Imron clear has been used since at least the late '70s as a top coat on vehicles of all kinds. Although less common now, it was often shot over acrylic lacquer color coats to provide the durability of an Imron topcoat coupled with the ease and quick drying advantage of spraying lacquer as the color coat. I painted quite a few cars and motorcycles using this technique. If Imron has no UV protection - and I never paid any attention to whether it does or not - I have never seen any example of it being a problem.

I can't comment on Awlgrip, having never shot it or owned any vehicle/boat on which it was used.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I thinkg the UV concern is over wood (brightwork), not painted surfaces.