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Ignition Switch "permanently on"??

  • Thread starter Thread starter OBXTucker
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OBXTucker

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
58' LRC (1975 - 1981)
Stepped on the boat this morning and noticed the notorious clicking of the console hour meter humming along. Of course, my first thought was that I left the port engine ignition key in the "on" position last weekend (done it before). interestingly, it was in the off position. hmmmmm....so why would the meter still be running?

Obvious answer was that the meter was getting power!

To check the ignition switch, I removed the key....and presto.....the engine still starts: Ignition in OFF and Key REMOVED!

I didn't have time to put a meter to the ignition switch, but I'm assuming it's shorting out internally (all wiring appears to be properly in place). I turned the main Guest switch off the the port engine - which killed power to the switches/meter.

As simple as a replacement ignition switch?? And why would this happen?
 
Did you check the key switch on the bridge or in the ER? You may have another ignition switch in the "on" position.
 
Brilliant idea, unfortunately it was one of the first things I checked....
 
It could be water in the ign switch on the bridge. The hour meter should work off of the fuel press switch on the sec filter, unless someone added an hour meter to the dash and connected it to the ign circut.
 
I should have clarified:
- The meter that's running is on the overhead in the pilothouse. This was installed during a refit about 9 years ago. Stock product. This one runs off the ignition switch. As stated in other threads, not the most effective way of measuring, but I'm dealing with the hand I was dealt.
- Unfortunately, I didn't think to check the meter in the ER, although I spent about an hour down there and didn't hear it clicking.
- All the rain we had, there could definitely be water in the FB ignition. I also didn't try to see if the engine will start with that ignition in the "off" position.

Appears there's more troubleshooting to do......

Thanks for the insight!
 
Hey Jeff, Did you have any problems from the storm (other than perhaps a water logged ignition switch)? I have heard that there was some storm/tide mayhem in Deltaville.

My memories are still fresh of 3 feet of water in my office from Isabel. Luckily, Kent Narrows was spared this time.

I hope you came through unscathed!
 
Hey Eric!
Kismet did great during the storm and tidal surge. We had 3 or 4 high tides that were pretty nasty. She's at Deltaville Marina and the docks were a couple of feet under water.

In the end, not a scratch on the outside and not a drop of water on the inside! They killed power to the docks and it has yet to be restored, so the vast majority of the boats had their batteries run down (bilge pumps, fans, etc.). Kismet wasn't any different, although the gensets and engines cranked right up this morning and the gens charged up the batteries pretty quickly.

I've got a fair amount of moisture in a STB aft corner of the FB that needs addressing (i'm sure 11" of rain didn't help!). She's going to have all the hardware removed and rebedded over the winter - and I'll keep my fingers crossed that the moisture inside only requires a small patch to fix.

We're loving her more and more every day - and she's definitely become part of the family (she even throws similar tantrums like my 4 year old!).

Thanks again for checking in!
Jeff
 
because your ignition switches are wired in parallel, either might be the cause of your problem.

I'd disconnect a lead from each, one at a time, and see which if either stops your hour meter from running.
 
I'll give that a shot. I still need to determine why the ignition switch is HOT with the key off/out. That's a little disconcerting.
 
Well if removing a wire from either switch shuts off your hour meter, then the ignition key switch is shorted...so you would replace that one switch.

A hot lead (with battery power) is connected to one side of such an ignition switch and the key enables connecting the hot lead to the accessories....it's possible a switch is stuck in the ON position even with the key removed...

But you have to figure out IF one of the switches is the realo culprit.
 
I'm not sure about the SW at all. On my 8V92's the hour meter only runs when the engine is running. The Key Switch has nothing to do with it. The hour meter is actually wired to the fuel pressure SW on each main. I did have the same problem some years ago, and the leads on the fuel pressure SW were bent togehter under a rubber boot. I fixed that and that fixed the problem.

I'm not that smart and the credit goes to Genisis for pointing that out to me back then. Thx.
 
The prior post is correct...The pressure switch would be the next thing to check if in fact the ignition key is not the culprit. The same pressure switch also typically controls the alternator feed and if the pressure switch is stuck on likely your alternator will be warm to the touch from unwanted current flow. (but that would also occur with a faulty ignition switch)
 
Question: Do your engine alarms work? If the key is on there should be lights and audible alarms for oil pressure. If you don't have those alarms, you need to fix that.
 
Yes. With the key out of the ignition, the alarms/lights work. That was my original tell tale sign: "port oil" light/alarm on. When I reset the alarm, the light stays on.
 
I'm pretty sure it's the ignition switch. The circuitry is fine. The lights/alarms should stay on while the engine isn't running (or they are being started), which they're doing. I'm headed down tomorrow afternoon and will report back.

Thanks!
 

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