Ideas Needed - setup for bridge hatch

[JLR]

Looking for some ideas here. The hatch that is at the top of my pilothouse stairway to my bridge is very heavy (probably about 50 pounds) and is currently raised and lowered with the help of one, gas spring rated for 90 pounds. Even with this newly installed higher rated gas spring, the hatch is difficult to open from below and requires some effort to get started to close from up top. So, I was thinking about replacing the gas spring with a linear actuator. It would need to be controlled from below (top of stairs) and from above (bridge) so that each station could open and close the hatch. Also, for security reasons, I would need to be able to lock out (disable) the bridge control when leaving the boat. It should be a fairly easy setup but I was hoping someone had done something like this before and may have an idea what setup I should use for the switches. I am reluctant to use the wireless remotes often used for automobile applications. One final note. If it fails when in the closed position and I am on the bridge, I do have a ladder down to the cockpit aft so I am ok with not having a fail safe way to take the actuator out of the picture.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Why do you close it when you are on the bridge?

 

[JLR]

Sky - good question. Cigar smoke!

 

[bobk]

I wonder if your gas springs are set up properly. I use a pair to assist lifting the carpeted teak stairs to the ER. These are very heavy, but the way the assists are mounted, it takes just a little effort to get them started up or down. I went through three iterations until I got them 'right'.

Bobk

 

[JLR]

I have attached a picture that might assist. It's not the greatest but does give you an idea of the one gas spring and the size of the hatch.

 

[bobk]

It looks like it is not possible to add a second gas spring and still use the hatch. That leave position and power as the variables to work with in that configuration. Can the spring manufacturer offer guidance? Maybe hinge on the narrow end and use two springs?

Bobk

 

[JLR]

As of now, we have a 90 pound spring on it. We had a 40 pound spring which was of no help. I am concerned that if we go to any more weight, it will open fine but be too difficult to get started to close. I still think power may be the best option if it can be retrofitted with the existing fitting on the hatch. Not really sure what you mean by an extra hinge.

 

[bobk]

As of now, we have a 90 pound spring on it. We had a 40 pound spring which was of no help. I am concerned that if we go to any more weight, it will open fine but be too difficult to get started to close. I still think power may be the best option if it can be retrofitted with the existing fitting on the hatch. Not really sure what you mean by an extra hinge.

I was noodling with the idea of changing the hinge to the narrower edge on the left and then using two springs. That would give you more leverage for lowering and opening and maybe allow a different length spring. You might also need to change the latch positions if you try it.

Bobk

 

[JLR]

Understood but I think that might create a windage issue to get the hatch high enough to get through if it opened that way. Keep em coming.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Would dividing the current hatch into two hatches help?

Also, what about replacing the current hatch with one made of lighter material? Or, if the pane in it is glass, what about putting acrylic in there instead? would that help?

 

[Seabrooke]

Would dividing the current hatch into two hatches help?

Also, what about replacing the current hatch with one made of lighter material? Or, if the pane in it is glass, what about putting acrylic in there instead? would that help?

JLR, if you take a hybrid version of Jim's idea and Bobk's idea you might be on a winner.

Take your current hatch to a shop and have them cut it in half across the width, and hinge it in the middle with a sealing strip to keep the weather out.

Then you can hinge the hatch to the boat at the forward end, fold the hatch back onto itself and have two light gas springs two lift the folded hatch. Latch both the sprung panel and the folding panel for securing the hatch.

Job done, no complex actuators required and the windage would no longer be an issue as the hatch would not reach above your wind screen.

Low cost, neat, professional, simple and effective.

If you wanted to have an electric control you could use powered latches for the hatch panel.

 

[JLR]

All interesting ideas. Thanks.

 

[captddis]

I take care of a 70CY with the same hatch and it pretty much opens on it's own. I think the angle of the strut needs to be changed. I will take a picture today as will be on the boat .

 

[JLR]

Thanks. That would be incredibly helpful.

 

[sandspur1966]

All creative ideas but if it were me, I would look into a qualitative solution before changing the current configuration and going through a design & build expense.

I just attended the Professional Boatbuilder IBEX show in Louisville this week and there was a vendor there that does stainless cylinders for the marine industry.

They are a German company and have several lines of products including a heavy duty Double Stroke system for very heavy applications.

http://www.hahn-gasfedern.de/en/products/double-stroke-gas-springs.html

 

[JLR]

Thanks Shawn.

 

[captddis]

The hatch on the 70CY is the same as yours and it does take a push to get started, then it pops up on it's own. I don't think it is too hard to push up, maybe five pounds or so.

 

[JLR]

Thanks.

 

[JLR]

Decided to go the linear actuator route. Now just looking for some nice DPDT switches for down below and the bridge that will look presentable for this installation. Down below, all of the switches in the PH are ivory wall plates (look like regular household Leviton) and the bridge is all weather covered rocker switches. The less cutting and drilling the better.

 

[JLR]

Instead of using mix and match switches, I decided to go wireless with two remotes. While I usually do not like to use RF devices on the boat, I am comfortable using these two remotes for the hatch. It also saves a whole lot of time for running wires to the two switches and the issue of where to put them, aside from what they look like.