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I don't know!

  • Thread starter Thread starter RICKEY
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RICKEY

Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2005
Messages
30
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
I've had my 53 for about 6 years now and this was the first time this happend. I was checking my rudder indacater and spining the wheel. it felt free and under no pressure, I spun it both ways and it didn't seem to do anything. went into the port engine room and checked the fluid and pressure, they were both were they were supposed to be. so I went to the bridge and spun that wheel and it worked the rudders fine. now, my question is, can I assume that the pump on the lower wheel is not working? or can it be a check valve? low on fluid? is 30 lbs enough? swomeone out there knows the answer! please help me out and tell me were to go next. thank you
 
Most likely air in the lines. Need to follow manufacturer's instructions on bleeding lines. Usually this happens at the upper station, but your configuration may allow air to be trapped at the lower station.
 
Do you have an autopilot? If so, check that. An autopilot can do strange things to the steering if its running and you are not aware.
 
I have, more than once, thought the steering had failed because I had forgotten that the autopilot was engaged. That should affect both stations though...

This sounds absurd, and I apologize but check to be sure the wheel is turning the pump! I saw a situation once where the wheel was freewheeling and it turned out there was no woodruff key in the steering shaft slot. The wheel had been working just with the friction between the wheel and the shaft. Somehow it loosened its grip and quit. A new key "fixed" the pump.

The pressure in your reservoir - 30 psi - has nothing to do with the steering effort and is plenty of pressure (so is 10 psi, for that matter) to ensure there is fluid available for the system. If there wasn't, the upper pump would not be working either.

I suppose it's possible that some sort of crud could have obstructed the pump inlet though I can't think how it could have gotten in there. THe pumps themselves are cam-driven, spring-loaded ball bearing/piston pumps and are essentially bulletproof. Seals can fail but you would see leaking fluid and there would no longer be any pressure in the tank. Check that there IS pressure in the tank and that the gauge is not just stuck - release the pressure, then pump it back up. But again, the fact that the upper pump is working indicates there is pressure.

Might be worth trying to bleed the pump - turn the wheel slowly (about 1/2 RPM) in one direction for at least 100 turns. The hynautic bleeding instructions call for far fewer but I have found that it often takes at least 75. At some point the turning effort should start stiffening. Continue for that 100 turns regardless of how stiff it becomes. You cannot hurt anything - there is a relief valve in the pump. If it stiffens up, then do the same in the other direction.

IF THAT WORKS, we'd have to figure out how the pump could lose it's prime if the system has pressure (from the reservoir). I can't think how this would occur especially if the upper pump is working. But one step at a time...
 

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