I/2" fuel shut off valve

[Bill Allen]

After rebuilding my racor my fuel valve is now dripping at the handle, whats the best fix if there is any other then replacing the valve. Bill

 

[Avenger]

Can you tighten the packing nut under the handle?

 

[Bill Allen]

Nope no packing nut just the six ball valves, one leaking. Sams couldn't get one so I had to bite the bullet and change it out with a diferent style valve I had on the boat suitable for fuel. Pain in the ass job, but finished and the fuel system on the stbd engine is now finished, tomorrow the port. Bill

 

[REBrueckner]

The few ball valves I've used, from Home Cheapo, did not seem to have any "packing" adjustment. I used three on my hydraulic steering system, for example, when I had to remove the hydraulic pump. I figured I'd just shut them off if I ever had to remove the pump again and avoid any dribbles and air in the steering lines.

If a suction line is leaking as you describe, I presume when the engine is off, it's likely to admit a small amount of air with the engine running so replacing it IS the best idea.

At some point I checked online and found more expensive ball valves with high pressure ratings, maybe for hydraulic lines, but never had a use for the "high priced brand".

 

[Boatsb]

I added 2 full flow FOG valves last year and they were close to $10 each. I don't usually change just the bad one if it's with a bunch of others especially if its original.

 

[Bill Allen]

The valves (6) are the fuel manifold and not easy to fool around with. I had a good ball valve with a fuel, gas rating so I'm fine (let the admiral make fun of the spare parts I carry now) need to find a spare, but home cheapo''s stuff is normally just that. Have added the replacemnet of the rest of them to my 2 do list. The stem failed and was wobbling in the valve body. There aren't usually packing nuts on any ball valves I've seen, but I could be wrong. My boat a 73 has an older style fuel manifold I'm certain original and is basic plumbing parts, tee's and valves. Sams doesn't have the valves and I couldn't find them on line. Since I'm in Marathon away from my shop I'l change the bad one and rebuild the whole thing when I get back to Brielle with the boat. Took the other racor apart and have cracks in the bowel so need to get one of them then this job will be history (I hope). Thanks Bill

 

[Avenger]

There aren't usually packing nuts on any ball valves I've seen, but I could be wrong.

Seriously? I think just about every one I've ever seen has a packing nut. We are talking about 1/4-turn lever type ball valves right?

 

[REBEL]

The packing nut is really for assembly with an O ring in it, It may only require a "snug" to correct the leak. Youll maybe need a tappet wrench to adjust it. Rebel

 

[Avenger]

Or take the handle off.

 

[Bill Allen]

It's a smith valve no packing nut (honest). Could take it apart since it has four bolts (7/16) around the square body. May take it apart after I finish. It has enough play in it that even if I replaced the o ring or whatevers inside it could leak again. Thirty plus year old valve. Changed it out and and no more leak. Bill

 

[REBEL]

Does that valve have a handle or a wheel? reb

http://www.smithvalve.com/products/globe/threaded-socketweld/class800/0G80.aspx

 

[Bill Allen]

The link shows a globe valve, I have a ball valve quater turn, lever action. I went to the Smiths site and they don't show it anymore. SinceI'm sitting in Marathon it's a little bit of a problem. It's replaced thanks for all the input. When I get back to brielle I'll take the panel off and replace all the valves with high quality valves for now I'm fixxed. Well except for my crazed racor housing, which I've already ordered a replacement. Bill

 

[REBEL]

The racor is under vacuum so it really shouldnt leak, but it is brittle.