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Hynautic steering help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Luckyducky
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Luckyducky

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Apr 10, 2013
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
37' CONVERTIBLE (1977 - 1982)
Over the past year I've been trying to find a leak in my hynautic steering system. Found the leak and replaced the 3/8 copper line in the aft bildge. Now I'm trying to purge the system. After reviewing the tips and tricks I still am not sure where to bleed the system. This is a picture of my steering cylinder. Do I bleed from the Allen head screws on the top. At either end.
 

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Copper Should not be used to connect to the cylinder or helm. Flexible hose is recomended. The copper will crack from movement.

Bleeding is all internal. The pressure in the reservoir pushes the fluid and the air come to the reservoir.

Look at mhs6 hose and connectors for the last foot or two at the cylinder. It's extremely low stretch and has reusable fittings.
 
Those allen screws are bleeder screws for the cylinder. And as Scott stated, you should have flexible hose going into the cylinder.
 
Scott is correct. The copper lines should be terminated short of the cylinder and flex hoses from there to the cylinder. Cut the copper so both hoses are the same length. I use Aeroquip hose with their reusable fittings.

You also should address the leaks around the swim step bracket bolts at the next haulout.
 
Do you have the power steering or just old school manual. The ram looks like manual but somewhere there could be a pump. Either way the bleeding is accomplished by turning the wheel and turning the wheel followed by turning the wheel.

Refill and re pressurize and repeat.
 
Do you have the power steering or just old school manual. The ram looks like manual but somewhere there could be a pump. Either way the bleeding is accomplished by turning the wheel and turning the wheel followed by turning the wheel.

Refill and re pressurize and repeat.


May not need to do that. I have replaced just the cylinder twice and both times I was able to bleed at the cylinder only. It depends on where you have air. Try at the cylinder while someone turns the wheel for you first. It will get most of the air out and you may get lucky. If spongy steering after that, then you'll need to follow the whole procedure.
 
Yes, your right, I've got to address the swim platform bolts... Never a dull moment..mean while I'll see if I can refit with flexible aircraft hoses..would you think it a good idea to replace the copper all the way to the reservoir or wait for the next leak..procrastinating a hit while I build the house...of course I still wanna go out in my boat!
 

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I understand the proper installation guidance. Flex is needed to accomodate relative movement. How much movement is there between the cylinder and the board it is mounted to on a Hatteras? I do not have flex at my cylinder and do not thinnk it is necessary. Perhaps power units have some movement my system is manual.

Bill
 
I understand the proper installation guidance. Flex is needed to accomodate relative movement. How much movement is there between the cylinder and the board it is mounted to on a Hatteras? I do not have flex at my cylinder and do not thinnk it is necessary. Perhaps power units have some movement my system is manual.

Bill

There is movement at the ram. It may not seem like much but it needs hose. Teleflex / hynautic has a hose from parker for this use. I have never see the hose fail on its own. Usually it's cut or worn through from something.
 
Thanks you guys, I've eventually got a big project on my hands when I pull theboat next time. The entire aft bidlge needs to be overhauled. Embarrassed to get pick apart, but when it gets done, it's going to be nice. The P O didn't do squat to anything under the floor. Slowly but surely I will make the boat Top Dog
 
I look forward to seeing pics of the lazzarette when you are through. I love spotless machinery spaces!
 
You can just use the autopilot pump if equipped. Turn it right/left a few times, check the level, check your air and repeat a few times. You can bleed the system with an assistants help in about 10 minutes.
 
So all the bleeding will be done from the aft and not from the steering box mounted to the wheel on the fly bridge. My box under the console has four flathead screw two on each side? This is the box where my leak occurred and I have taken it off and replaced all the seals. Now the steering is stiff but haven't bleed system yet is this normal?
 
As it turns out, I didn't bleed at all. Fill the pressure reservoir with oil and 30 psi. It pushed the fluid in, then turn the wheel, reservice. Now works fine. Not sure why yours is stiff. Did you change to a thicker oil.
 
It looks like the blue flex hoses are going to the relief valve. Read the purging instructions that were just posted. Basically you open the screw at the top and turn the wheel 25 turns in each direction. Start at the highest steering station.
 

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