How to open shore power panel

[Bill Root]

One of the dials on the shore power switching panel on my 1988 54MY has broken. It's one of the big black dials that switches the power between sources. When I called Sam's to get a new one, Jeremy told me that he needed the number off the back of the switch the dial was attachd to in order to get the correct dial. I would need to open the panel to look at the back of the switch.

Today I tried to open the switch panel. It has screws holding it on the top, bottom and starboard sides, with a hinge on the port side. I removed all the screws figuring the panel would just swing open. Not so. I could get it to move at the very top and bottom edge, but it seemed to be attached at the middle of the starboard side, even after all the screws were removed. I decided not to try to pry it loose until I had a chance to get some advice.

Is anyone familiar with these panels and how to open them? Is there some kind of bracket behind the panel that could be holding it closed after the screws are removed? There is obvioulsy a lot of complicated stuff behind that panel and I don't want to mess any of it up.

Thanks.

 

[captddis]

It does swing out but you need to remove the handles on the barrell switches. Sit down before you ask the price for a new switch. Last one I ordered for a 58YF was 800.00

 

[Bill Root]

It does swing out but you need to remove the handles on the barrell switches. Sit down before you ask the price for a new switch. Last one I ordered for a 58YF was 800.00

By barrel switches do you mean the four big black switches that select which shore power source is being used and which source each AC panel will use? Luckily for me it's only the dial on the switch that's broken. I'm puzzled because the switches are located near the four corners of the panel, but the panel seems to be stuck in the middle.

 

[carolinacoast]

Just pull or gently pry the selector(s) off. Any selector that is on the outside of the aluminum fascia or hinged cover plate is just a 'press fit' that will easily come off. Then the cover swings gently open. Turning the power off first is a precaution you probably already planned on. It is really just like a 'perko' switch.

 

[captddis]

Just pull or gently pry the selector(s) off. Any selector that is on the outside of the aluminum fascia or hinged cover plate is just a 'press fit' that will easily come off. Then the cover swings gently open. Turning the power off first is a precaution you probably already planned on. It is really just like a 'perko' switch.

After removing the screws that hold the handle to the switch shaft.

 

[Fanfare]

In time the loop of the electrical cords going into the barrel switches take a set (age and, in my case, engine room heat). They act as reverse springs to hold the door closed.

Also, mine had a tiny center screw in the middle I had overlooked.

Remember there are 240v living in there. My panel is in the ER and I tend to sit on the engine block while working on it. Probably a very good ground. I decided to cover the engine with non-conducting blankets.

 

[rwetherington]

Bill,

If you have not done this task before you get this give me a call and I will walk you through doing it. It is not that hard.

 

[Bill Root]

Thanks for the advice. I'll be back on the boat later this week to give it another try. Fortunately I did think to disconnect the shore power at the dock before working on the panel.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Bill,
If you need the whole rotary switch, I have a spare. It was never used. I bought it with the intent of adding another generator but then ended up putting in an inverter and slide breaker instead.

They are pricey as Dave mentioned. I think I paid $800 for this one, but I don't need it so I am open to offers.

 

[Bill Root]

Thanks for the offer, Sky, but it's only the knob that I need. Sam's found one for me today: 27 bucks.