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How The $@# Do I Remove Head Pump

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Sadey

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Hatteras Model
60' MOTOR YACHT (1987 - 1989)
I need to have two of the three Galley Maid pumps rebuilt. It seems the hoses are weld to the pumps, my guess is the pumps have never been removed. If I cut the hoses I might come up short and have to run new ones. Any tips for removal so as not to have to cut them?
 
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Try gentle use of a heat gun.
 
Personally I would not rebuild the GMs. I am replacing with Raritan Atlantes freshwater as the GMs need work. I offered my last takeout GM for free and no one took it.
 
I just rebuilt one of mine last weekend. The heat is the way on the 1” and 3/4” hoses. The 3” may resist the heat because it’s likely sludge welded in place. You’ll probably have to use pry bar to gently work around the edges. Then a twisting motion will tell you she’s ready to let go. The sludge is really hard and needs to be removed from as much of the hose as possible. Dish soap or silicone grease for reassembly.
 
I'll try the heat gun. I hate to spend the money on new toilets when for under $500 the GM's can be rebuilt and used for another bunch of years.
 
I replaced all mine with Raritan Elegance and love them.
 
I agree with using heat, but the hoses will need replacement at some point. Newer fresh water heads will use much less water. I intend to keep my Galley Maid heads as they last 8 to 9 years with no maintenance. Then I swap them for a rebuilt unit.
 
I agree with using heat, but the hoses will need replacement at some point. Newer fresh water heads will use much less water. I intend to keep my Galley Maid heads as they last 8 to 9 years with no maintenance. Then I swap them for a rebuilt unit.
Without fear of contradiction, I can promise two things. The sun will come up tomorrow, and GM head pumps WILL need maintenance long before then. Still, they are a decent product, well supported and fairly easy to maintain.
 
Regarding the hoses. You might want to consider running new ones anyway. If they've been in use for decades, they probably are scaled up internally.
 
I agree with most everything that everyone has written so far. Getting to the point of your question,
take a flat blade screwdriver and keep working it around and around the end of the galley maid and
rock the galley made up and down side to side until the hose connection breaks. I spray lubricant into
the end as I was working the screwdriver and that seem to loosen it up to the point I could pull
it apart.I’ve rebuilt three of these pumps for a lot less than $500. I wouldn’t mind replacing mine but I cannot stand spending $1500 for a toilet considering what you put down it.
 
There is a tool from Snap On that a friend of mine refers to as "the elephant dental pick". So far, it's always been able to get hoses off without tearing them. I think other tool companies also make hose picks, too. One of hte most useful tools I own.
 
I think everybody has had this issue. The wire reinforced hose becomes like concrete. My advice.. make the final connection to the pump with an iron pipe to pvc coupler. The pvc will fit easily in the wire reinforced rubber hose, and the coupler easily connects the pump to the pvc. Cut about a 10 inch piece of pvc.. insert one end in the rubber hose, slide the coupler over the other end, line it up with the pump end, slide the coupler covering the pump end and pvc.. tighten the coupler and double clamp the pvc to rubber hose end. If possible, just eliminate the big hose and run pvc from head to pump end, using the coupler to complete the make up.
 

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Fernco's are a great way to go. But you have to get the old hose out to make use of that coupling. I would dearly love to do that. I suspect I'm not alone in observing that a bunch of stuff has to be gotten to to get to that 3" hose. Until then, go forth gently.

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I rest my case.
 
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1) Why do these Galleymaid pumps need to be rebuilt? If the motors run, then you probably just need stators. You don't need to pull them out completely to do that.

2) I replaced my Galleymaids years ago. I got tired of replacing stators. I replace with Raritan as many others have. I love the freshwater flush and they have required absolutely no work in the last 14 years. They just work.

3) If you do replace with Raritan, that's the time to replace all of the hoses as they use a different size and the old hoses are probably a source of odor anyway.
 
1) Why do these Galleymaid pumps need to be rebuilt? If the motors run, then you probably just need stators. You don't need to pull them out completely to do that.

This I gotta see. Let me know your flight info and I'll pick you up at the airport. If you're right, you'll go back first class. If I'm right, you take the big dog home. Deal?
 
I just unbolted the part that the 3" hose was hooked to and left it attached. Pulled the pump out and put stators on. It was a little tricky lining everything up but much easier than pulling the hose off. I tried heat and screwdrivers then just took the bolts out. I will probably go the Fernco route next time. I wouldn't replace these with freshwater. Especially a system with just one pump. It goes and you don't. With the Gm at least with a multiple head boat there should always be at least one working. Plus on those long trips when the water maker quits you dont have to go in a bucket. A friend of mine with a 60' removed his and went fresh water. He always ran out of water it seemed and more than once the pump quit offshore and there were no toilets.
 
Good luck with your pump. When I bought my 61' the first thing I did is rip out all that Galley Maid toilet crap and installed Thetford Marine Tecma toilets in all three heads. Running the new hoses was a whole lot of fun and the good ones are big money to add insult to injury.
 
This I gotta see. Let me know your flight info and I'll pick you up at the airport. If you're right, you'll go back first class. If I'm right, you take the big dog home. Deal?

It all depends on the location of the pump. If you have good access you can pull the end off without unbolting the whole pump. Maybe you need a MY with better engine room access :)

The question remains, why do his pumps need to go to Raz to be rebuilt? Do they just need stators?
 
The MY's (mine anyway) have easy access to the pumps. My forward head pumps are in the bow bilge access hatch. Easiest things on the boat to work on. The aft head pumps are in the starboard ER, and very easy to access. As I have worked on them, I have cut back the rubber hose and inserted the pvc coupling i described earlier. This makes for easy replacement of the rubber cup on the macerator end. As mentioned, no need to remove the pump in my case.
 

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