help--flushing heat exchangers--wont fill up!

[Docs Holiday]

ok--so Im trying to use genesis protocal to flush my heat exchangers--6v92 detroit diesels TA---connected pump to raw water input side and hose to exhaust output side----I keep adding to the 5 gallon pail and it keeps going down---where is the water going--tried putting soap suds in to see if I was missing something and it might be going out exhaust....No bubbles...transmission fluid--oil level and coolant level staying the same!!! Im afraid to add phosopho acid until I see this thing stabilize---any suggestions greatly appreciated... Thanks

 

[Docs Holiday]

whew..found the "leak"..turns out there is a hose from the raw water ouput to behind the packing gland...I think out to the cutlass bearing??? ...cut and blocked the hose and...no more leak...phospho circulating now...... I hope this saves someone else some time...it will certainly save me time on the starboard motor>>

 

[Fanfare]

That hose probably goes to your dripless shaft seals to lubricare them. Be sure to reconnect them before putting the engine in gear. This is a good time to check that seawater is flowing freely to the seal once you start the engine again, then splice the hose back together.

 

[Docs Holiday]

No my shaft seals drip. Is it possible to have water cooled cutlass bearings?

 

[Boatsb]

No my shaft seals drip. Is it possible to have water cooled cutlass bearings?

I guarantee you have water cooled cutlass bearings.

 

[labrador]

Not when the boat's on the hard!

 

[Boatsb]

Not when the boat's on the hard!

And remember "on the hard" is different than "Hard aground".

 

[Fanfare]

Even "dripless" seals can leak. I don't think you are going to have a hose going from the raw water side to the stuffing box for no reason. I know of two kinds of dripless seals, and both use this hose. There is the PMY, which uses a carbon to ceramic ultra-flat bearing surface to prevent leaks, and the Tidesmarine, now used by Hatteras OEM. This is a rubber lip bearing seal rubbing directly on the prop shaft. These will wear out over time. However, several seals can be placed onto the shaft when they are installed. If so, there will be a plastic disc-shaped carrier on the shaft toward the engine. A new seal can be moved from the carrier to the stuffing box without having to pull the shaft away from the transmission coupling to get one over the end. If you are not lucky there will not be one. Be sure to add these if you have to.

I put the Tidesmarine ( www.tidesmarine.com ) on my boat, mostly because Hatteras is now using them. That seemed a good endorsement. I think I have had five or so years so far, about 3,000 nmi. or so, and no problems so far. Their website shows how to change the seal. They are also very helpful on the phone or in person. Check their photos to see if this is what you have.

 

[Will]

In addition to outside sea water, some standard stuffing boxes additionaly use raw water from engine cooling to lubricate and keep the packing cool. It's not at all uncommon especially when larger, slow turning shafts are involved.
Will