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Heads don't drain

luckydave215

Legendary Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2005
Messages
1,619
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
60' CONV -Series I (1978 - 1986)
Here's the problem.
The master head has been giving me trouble for a while. Raw water pumps in just fine, but (sometimes) the bowl doesn't get pumped out, as if the pump had lost it's prime or something. After filling the bowl almost to the rim and waiting for 30 seconds, I hit the button again and it evacuates just fine, pumps like a champ.
I have a spare factory rebuilt head pump identical to the ones installed (32V galleymaid) but haven't gotten around to changing it yet (having three heads on board can make you put that item further down "the list")
Wellll......today I was fishing several buddies, and the starboard (day) head started doing the same thing.
I don't have the manual for these (original I think) heads, so my question is this: Is there some sort of valve in the base of the toilet that can be unstuck, repaired, replaced, rebuilt, whatever? Or am I looking at pulling all the hoses out of the boat and changing them along with all the head pumps? (EEEK!)

Advice will be appreciated..........
 
You didn't mention the manufacturer of your heads. If they are Groco's then I'd think that it's time to rebuild the heads ... simple project ... just order the correct repair kit ... disassemble and reassemble. Probably a bad joker valve.
 
If these are the oem GM heads and they are the same type that are on our 1980 53MY, there is nothing in the head itself - no valves of any kind. It is just a casting with passages for the incoming water and the outflow which goes through the cast-in water trap, exactly like a home toilet. There is nothing to fail.

As you probably know, the GM pump has two sections, one to provide RW and the other to evacuate waste. It's quite possible that the macerator section needs a new kit while the pump section is fine.
 
I have the 53C with the GM's. Just about every time we take the boat out one of the heads loose prime. On the old GM pumps there should be a "Primer" pipe that connects the two stators. (this looks like a carrying handle on the pump) My forward head still has this and it works great. When you push the button to activate the head a small portion of water from the intake side of the pump diverts to the waste side to prime it and evacuate the head. If yours is missing its very easy to add. My master head did not have it so on occasions if it looses prime I resort to the toilet plunger. This will force enough water threw the system to prime the waste side.

Chris
Superior Nights 53C
 
Dave, our 60C does the same thing. If you let it burp a few times it will flush or resort to the plunger. It only happens when we run the boat above hull speed. The cross over primer does not work for us as it will feed over and fill the holding tank while running.
 
I run the boat at planing speed for at least long enough to let engine temperatures stabilize near the end of each all day outing (15-30 minutes). This head problem is new........
 
Have the same problem in aft head . GM say you need a check valve at strainer.
Russ
 
Could be the inlet (flush water side) is starting to get blocked up therefore the flow into the head is lower than normal and is allowing the sewage pump side to draw air on flushing and lose prime. Confusing sentance ,huh? I had the same problem when I partially shut the seacock down on mine in an effort to extend time between pumpouts..........Pat
 
Try replacing the stators. Cheap and works every time.
 
Have the same problem in aft head . GM say you need a check valve at strainer.
Russ


A HA !! thats what the check valves were for on mine ! Sans strainers though. I couldnt figure out why they'd put checks in there. Mine had the checks on the discharge side tho... I thought that was to keep sea water from being forced back into the toilet. ws
 
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I had that problem and replaced the rubber stator. Problem went away. This was after removing and cleaning the old one. Maybe you've got a "mouse" wrapped around the macerator.

Unfortunately, stators are not cheap. They're about $120 for a rubber boot the size of a beer can.

Doug
 
That's expensive considering I paid about $300 for a complete factory rebuilt pump assembly, with new everything including motor and connectors, even came with fresh paint and stickers etc.....
 
On mine I needed the bleed line or I had the same problem but after rebuilding them they worked fine without the bleed line. I think when they get a little worn the discharge or waist side is more likely to loos prime.

Is that check valve sideways or is that the photo? A swing check should always have the cap or hinge facing straight up?

Brian
 
It was mounted on the vertical, and actually stuck open from slotchka buildup.
From what I can tell it shouldve swung closed from wave pressure on the hull, and laid open when at dockside.
I doubt it worked that way. Besides it was on the discharge side, and shouldve been on the inlet. It was installed in NOLA, so what can you expect??? Its now at the metal recyclers' and I guess I need to pull the other two as well, although all the cocks are closed. Those were 1-1/4" valves, and we got 50 cents for it. I sure would hate to have to buy one ! ws
 
It was mounted on the vertical, and actually stuck open from slotchka buildup.
From what I can tell it shouldve swung closed from wave pressure on the hull, and laid open when at dockside.
I doubt it worked that way. Besides it was on the discharge side, and shouldve been on the inlet. It was installed in NOLA, so what can you expect??? Its now at the metal recyclers' and I guess I need to pull the other two as well, although all the cocks are closed. Those were 1-1/4" valves, and we got 50 cents for it. I sure would hate to have to buy one ! ws

After looking at the pic, I should note that the valve is on a 90 into the seacock and out the starboard side 2 feet below the waterline. The vertical 2 X 4 in the upper left supports the crew cabin sole. Kotex's are in the keel. Kinda dis-orienting no?? ws
 

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