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Head help

  • Thread starter Thread starter jpk55
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jpk55

Active member
Joined
Jul 7, 2014
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
61' MOTOR YACHT (1980 - 1985)
The time has come to replace the waste line from the galley maid in the engine room to to holding tank our 61 m/y. Aside from the obvious, any suggestions and advice from anyone that's done this on the same model?
thanks,
jeff
 
Can't speak to your model but I have replaced my master SR (43' run) and my day head. The VIP is waiting for my helper to return to town.

The master was a breeze (2 of us about 45 minutes!) as there was no bulkhead to go through. The day head was a bear! Pump is in my genny comppartment (very little room) with the vented loop behind a cabinet in the head. Approx 2' X 3' opening to crawl/slide/dive into and no room to work in once in the area. Took 2 of us 10 hours to replace less than 20'!

What I have done that is a great time saver is join the new and old hose with a piece of dowel rod, screwing the dowel into both hoses. Far easier to pull the new hose in while removinng the old hose. Hope it works well for you as this is figuratively and literally the shittiest job to be done on a boat...:mad:

As an aside, and not trying to hijack your thread, any advice on how to remove the discharge housing when the stator has calcified to it? My watermaker is mounted over the pump and I do not have room to disconnect and pull the pump. I have banged the cutter end and even made a notched tool from a piece of pipe and am not able to remove the rotor. Getting very hot and frustrated...
 
Last edited:
thanks for your reply. I'm attacking it tonight. As far as the pump, I"ve had 3 of mine apart and
they came apart like new. good luck I'm sure someone else has had that problem and you'll head from them.
 
It shouldn't be an issue, if you're using the white sanitation hose from West Marine make sure that you put liquid soap on the inside to make it slide across the fitting easier. Also have a hair dryer there to soften up the end of the hose it will make it so much easier when you're trying to slip it over the flange.
 
As an aside, and not trying to hijack your thread, any advice on how to remove the discharge housing when the stator has calcified to it? My watermaker is mounted over the pump and I do not have room to disconnect and pull the pump. I have banged the cutter end and even made a notched tool from a piece of pipe and am not able to remove the rotor. Getting very hot and frustrated...
Can you pour in some CLR and let it soak for a couple of hours? I've had good luck with that cleaning up head pump parts that are caked with calcium and other stuff.
 
That's California other stuff. LOL
 
That's California other stuff. LOL
Rusty is my west coast head pump parts manager. The last one he facilitated needed a jackhammer. The CLR needed help. I think those west coast guys need to up their Metamucil
 
Did that part make it to you?
 
We removed part of this same hose yesterday in the engine room as part of a tidy up. The biggest issue is that there are three hose clamps behind the battery boxes that you cannot get access to. I used a sabre saw to cut them. The hose is possibly Sikaflexed at the bulkhead, but you should have access via the hatch in the middle bathroom. The front bulkhead is accessed best via the sump hatch in front of the washing machine.

I've have found that all these old black delivery/supply hoses for the toilets and gensets are now on their last legs and am replacing all them. This same black hose was also used for the front toilet delivery hose on the port side. Why the through hull was located so far back in the twin stateroom I have no idea. This hose has been disconnected and a new through hull fitting installed in the front bulkhead.
 
Sams didn't have the exact replacement hato go with the updated version. I had already spoken to them, but thanks.
 

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