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Head discharge

Seas the Moment

Active member
Joined
Jun 13, 2009
Messages
79
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
58' MOTOR YACHT-Series I (1977 - 1980)
My master head pump works fine, but somewhere in the discharge hose I have a restriction. Not sure how to attack this? First thoughts are to push (air) or pull (vaccuum) the clog. Either way, it's not gonna be pretty. Any experience to share? Thanks.
 
More information please. What are the symptoms? Are you talking about the long discharge line that runs to the holding tank or the overboard line? Do you have saltwater or freshwater flush?

Regardless, sucking and blowing on that line are not in my vocabulary. Let some white vinegar sit in the line for a few hours and see if that helps.
 
I tried to remove a clog (grandchildren!) from my head discharge by backflushing using 100+ psi from my air compressor. Didn't work. The far end of this hose was 3/4 closed by crystalized toilet matter which was so sharp and rough that nothing, once wedged, was going to get through it. Had to replace the hose. Some people remove their hose and break up this stuff with hammers. Mine was 18 years old, there was a marine store nearby that had Shields hose, they loaned me a heat gun. I could tell God wanted me to change it for new. Thanks to Edwin's Boat Yard, Man 'O War Cay, Bahamas.

A heat gun really helps with getting the fittings on and off as well as making the hose easier to bend. Maybe it was easier before Hatteras put the engines in.
 
Pressure builds severely when flushing, blows 32v brkr. Switch to overboard, flush...works fine. Restriction is in long holding tank line. Freshwater.

Thanks
 
Why not just change the line? I did both of mine this year (53C) in less than an hour. Ya I know not a pretty job but not hard to do. Got the hose at granger 1 1/2 chemical resistant suction hose, as I recall about 12' a side.

Chris
Superior Nights 53C
 
It took me 11 hrs. over two days. First I had to find the problem, which I assumed was probably between the piston and the joker valve. Silly me, it wasn't. By then half the toilet was apart. Me, the germ phobe, resting my chin on the porcellain as I work blind on the nuts, a quarter turn at a time, my ass in sh*t. In the middle of my disassembling the diverter valve a Mayday comes over the VHF, a friend has fallen on the jagged rocks on a nearby island, cut her face and arm, bleeding badly and broke her wrist. Needs help. Covered with crap, I can't even crawl out from under the stbd. engine in time to help. Admiral sends our first aid kit off with the rescuers. Next day bought the new hose, spend a few more hours passing stiff hose through the bulkhead, making turns and connect to discharge. Takes two people to push through, one pushing, one pulling. To properly run hose would have to pull the fixed fire extinguisher and lift to pass behind. Screw it. Left lots of slack so the fire extinguisher man can do this this year when he removes cylinder to weigh it on the annual inspection the insurance co. insists on.

Sure was glad to hit the shower afterward.

Do these crystal hose deposits occur with fresh water flushing or is it only with salt water flushes? The near end of my 2 in. hose was fine because I am a fanatic about long flushes, salt water being free. But 15 ft down the line the hose was down to about 3/4 in free space, the rest blocked evenly with deposits.
 
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I think it only builds up with the salt water.


With our fresh water flush, we still have plenty of water and plenty of holding tank. The 4 of us lasted 12 days without a problem. We even all took showers and ran the little F&P dishwasher almost every day.
 
I tried to remove a clog (grandchildren!) from my head discharge by backflushing using 100+ psi from my air compressor. Didn't work.

Jim,

Yeah... it's really hard to get grandchildren out of a hose like that.

Doug
 
That's funny--it was sure easy to get them in.
 
"With our fresh water flush, we still have plenty of water and plenty of holding tank. The 4 of us lasted 12 days without a problem. "

That's pretty darned impressive. My wife and I regularly use up all the 287 gal of FW in 5-6 days though we have made it 10 if we "work at it." I like long showers so I'm the big water user. When we had 2 guests aboard for a week-long cruise, I took shorter showers and we still had to refill the water tanks the 5th day.

I would suck as a camper! ;)
 
After reading Jim's story, I feel like I want to go take a shower. Yikes. These work boats sure are a pleasure.

To the OP's question: my vote would probably be for a hose replacement.
 
"With our fresh water flush, we still have plenty of water and plenty of holding tank. The 4 of us lasted 12 days without a problem. "

That's pretty darned impressive. My wife and I regularly use up all the 287 gal of FW in 5-6 days though we have made it 10 if we "work at it." I like long showers so I'm the big water user. When we had 2 guests aboard for a week-long cruise, I took shorter showers and we still had to refill the water tanks the 5th day.

I would suck as a camper! ;)

With the water counter I know exactly how much water everyone uses. My showers were usually 2-3 gallons.
 
Usually whatever makes it past the pump will go thru the hose unless it is badly cristalized. Likely your problem and you will have to replace it. I think Angela had the same problem on her 58, I think she found the hose almost closed
 
Thanks for all the feedback. Ok, looks like I will be replacing the hose. So, I was thinking of using the existing hose as a "pull" for the replacement hose by simply using a coupler on one end or the other and pulling the old hose out (someone pushing on the other end) until the new hose is through. Am I making this too complicated or anticipating more work than it is? Kinda like procrastinating the rebuild of a GM head pump :-(
 
How easy it will be depends on which hose you are replacing. If it is the one from the master SR head, it goes forward essentially under the passageway and then through the starB eng room. If it's the original hose there are screw clamps holding it to the stringer under the floor. Those hose clamps may or may not be accessible, depending on whether your boat has access hatches in the passageway. If not, you won't be able to get to those clamps and therefore, you won't be able to move that hose and use it to pull the new one through.

Our 53 had some hatches - I don't if they were oem or not - that allowed me to JUST reach the clamps and remove them and the old hose but some folks just feed a new hose in along side the old hose and don't worry about clamping. Others use plastic pipe instead of hose for that run.
 
I was replacing the hose on my guest head, fortunately the easiest to reach of the three on board. Even so I was surprised by how difficult it was to work on and how long it took. I was able to purchase Shields white sanitary hose, looked just like what I was removing. This is smooth on the inside (important!) but has ridges on the outside. The ridges prevent the hose from moving smoothly because they catch on every edge. The bulkhead between the head and the ER is about 2 in thick because of sound insulation, so has to go in straight. Once in the ER the hose has to make a 90* bend just above the shaft. To make this bend the entire length has to be pulled through the bulkhead and then redirected. With one person pulling from the ER door and me pushing we could move about 3 in per push. By now I was lubricating the hose with olive oil to help it slip. My hose felt fairly new, but it had taken a set from being on the roll, so it would naturally veer off in one direction, and wanted to coil up again at each end. It was much like wrestling an anaconda in the tight confines of the guest head. See attack of the heat gun below.

Once I got started on this dirty task I did not want to stop until it was finished. It required lying in strange positions on dirty decks and using muscles I did not know I had. I would also try to do it back in the good old USA where parts are available if I broke or needed something. And parts are cheaper. I was lucky to have a boatyard nearby. So next time I would look at whether PVC pipe could be used for part of the run. Several pieces could be joined using the glued fittings without obstructing the inside. Its rigidity and smooth exterior would be easier to push through under decks. I did not want to cut my hose because the junctions and hose clamps would become future problem points. Wouldn't work in this case, but might for my other heads. Perhaps if I had had a bit more time (Admiral was "strongly encouraging" me to fix this immediately, was NOT pleased by my mention of the two other heads availability!!!) I would try uncoiling the Shields hose and weighting it down, leaving it in the hot sunshine for a day or so to see if it would relax a bit. This warmth would make it easier to bend as well. Trying to use the heat gun was daunting because the metal parts get really hot and there is no place to park it between uses. The only place for it to fall was on me.

In reference to the calcium deposits in the hose: I have read suggestions to pour vinegar or dilute hydrochloric acid into the toilet bowls to dissolve these deposits. I did this often, although not on a scheduled basis. Groco also recommends a little vegetable oil after this to lubricate the toilet parts. I haven't done this because of my LectraSan units downstream, but maybe I should. These probably benefit from lubrication too. Lastly I pumped a whole gallon of Raritan's new hose cleaner, C. H., through my heads, but too soon to know if it helped. All of my hoses were replaced 19 years ago. I did need to work on the hoses for our master head earlier in the trip, the one that gets the most use. These hoses looked fine. Of course the Admiral and I know to use lots of seawater when flushing. Perhaps I need to emphasize this a bit more for our guests.

Good luck. As I was walking through the small town of Man 'O war Cay with the coil of 15 ft of white hose wrapped around my shoulder, a voice emanated from the depths of the boat yard, "Well, that looks like a shitty job." That pretty well summed it up, and I hadn't even started yet.

I regret that this adventure seems to be my primary memory of an otherwise satisfactory cruise.

P.S. In looking up the name of Raritan's C.H. hose cleaner a moment ago I noticed their Saniflex marine hose. It doesn't appear to have the exterior ridges that Shields hose does. Worth a look. www.raritaneng.com
 
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I had very bad luck with the white sanitation hose BUT I cannot remember the brand so maybe the Shields is fine. It was whatever was recommnded on the site where Peggy whats her name claims to know all re marine heads. Within two years it was porous odor-wise and I ended up replacing most of it with the same type of hose that Hatteras had installed originally and had lasted 25 years. ( I replaced the oem hose because I thought I should, figuring the old hose couldn't last much longer - there was no odor/leak issue)
 
Fanfare: thanks for the motivatioal speech! More justification for procrastination or using one of the other 3 heads!


But seriously, thanks for taking the time to respond and share. If somehow, I figure out a better way, I will share with all! Great thing about this site... We all are as smart as the whole group!
Thx
 
Had the same problem on my '79 43C. Original hose had closed up to about 1/2" diameter with a grey concrete-like substance. Replacing the hose was a biatch. Every bulkhead or cross member penetration had been caulked on both sides and required that I pick it out bit by bit to free the hose. I swear they hung the hose before they laid the keel. If yours is similar, do not plan on using the old hose to pull the new. Mine was stiffer than a 15 year old boy at a Playboy convention.

I had to cut several access hatches to accomplish the job, so I decided to put down teak and holly veneer plywood over it when I finished the job. Since I had gone that far, I replaced the head with a nice Atlantes Freedom head. Well, the lower section looked so nice with the new floor that I went and purchased more t&h and did the entire salon deck as well.

And that is how you spend $3500 to replace $50 worth of hose.
 
"And that is how you spend $3500 to replace $50 worth of hose"

Should be some sort of classic "rule" of boats or vintage cars! :)
 

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