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Hatteras level

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mike53C
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Mike53C

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Jul 21, 2005
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135
Hatteras Model
53' CONVERTIBLE (1969 - 1980)
My 1970 53C is standard as far as I know. Original DD 12 71N, original gearboxes, and tank distribution and capacity, both fuel and water.New genset but same capacity and location.
Interior is unmodified too, no big fridges or whatever.
The problem is, when it rains or when you wash it, water colects on the gunwales covering the fill caps, and making a mess if you walk to the front. The stern is high enough to keep the water from exiting thru the rear side scups. This happens with full tanks or empty tanks.
I have been told that this was a problem with this model. Anyone has an explanation?
 
If this water is covering your fill caps, IE water, fuel, ect..... then you will have core problems , probably, in the future.

Could there be sagging in the gunwales ?

Make sure these fill caps are caulked good.
 
Mike,
I have got a 53 also, water does tend to collect and stay there, however it only does on mine if the aft tank is less that half full and I have a full tank of water. You might want to check how much weight has been added to the bow area and redistribute as necessary. When I first purchased Superior Nights I moved on a lot of tools and equipment and stored it in the bow stateroom. I had "Pooling" water than even with full tanks. Its amazing how much weight you can add when you move in.

Chris
 
Mike,

I think Chris may be right. On my 53C the water will drain down and out with the rear tank empty but just barely. Adding a full tank of water will be just enough to tilt it forward. FYI When I repainted a few year ago I did have core rot around all fuel fills and the rod holders. I dug it out, packed the void with epoxy putty and reinstalled. If the seal leaks again there is nothing to rot.

Barry
 
The caulking I have checked, I was afraid of the problem Starman mentions. The o rings on the filler caps are ok, I dont want water in my fuel.
I would not think there are that many things up front, but I will check. I have a heavy dinghy but even if it is unloaded the problem persists.
Oh, and I forgot to mention, the boat has an extra water tank under the rear cockpit. About 160 gallons.
 
As a temporary trim solution, Id like to fill my after water tank
(160 gals now empty I think) but want to prevent it from gravity filling the fwd tank (140 gals). Is the fill line forward copper or hose? STARMAN ? I'd like to crimp the hose, but would need to cut the copper and cap it. The tank is against the transom.
The sub really likes to plow and ride high in the back from the extra flotation from the cockpit extension. It works like tabs in the full down position. I also need to check the 160 gal aux fuel tank which is fwd of the water tank (think its empty but not sure).
Hey Sky-- from the looks of your displacement speed pix and avatar, I think HATT TRICK plows way deeper. Looking over the gunnel, the roll almost comes up to the deck !! Even with full spray rails. INPUT??
Pic shows stern "attitude" being high. ws
 
Bill,
I agree. You need to gain a little weight back there. If you could get any of those aft tanks full, I'm sure it would help. My bow will ride a bit low if the holding tanks are full and I'm low on fresh water, but not bad. I may have told you about a guy I met with an Ocean Alexander that he added a cockpit extention to. He sunk a hot tub under the sole of the cockpit to add weight. The yard was going to add a fuel tank, but he said he already had enough capacity, so he opted for the tub. That's what you need. A Tub for the Sub.:D
 
I'm afraid it'll turn into a "birdbath" :D Thinking about putting the aux generator back there with a day tank-- it really appears strong enough, but needs way better ventilititificating. Hmm-- any translators from Detroit around??
Right now its dead space. Theres no way the sub will plane. Maybe put the stabilizers out the side like diving planes?? :eek: ws
 
I always keep those little O-rings on my filler caps coated with white grease, you probably do also (?).

Bear'
1984 61' MY Strategic Plan :)
 
YachtsmanBill,

My boat wants to ride a bit bow heavy as well with all chain rode and every tool I own in the fwd stateroom. I try to keep full water (against the transom under cockpit sole) and full aft fuel tank. I also keep a full mid tank and use the forward tank fuel first. The PO installed a small (8kw) genset in the cockpit and that surely helps a bit too.

IMHO, I firmly believe that you are incorrect when you say that the Hatt Trick will not plane. I understand that you don't care to push her that hard at this point and I do respect that but she WILL plane. Several reasons: 1. She is very light right now because you removed all the interior that was not bolted down, 2. She planed when new with much less waterline before the cockpit extension so now it would be easier, 3. Hatt Trick has 250hp more than my 58YF which weighs about 80,000lbs and planes fine (although you do have to order up 2300 revs for several seconds to get on top before dropping back to 1950).

After you get that grumbling Allison taken care of and all servcice of the mains is where you'd like it, go ahead and run her up once. Make sure you're in at least 20' of water. My boat would not plane while crossing Mobile Bay or anywhere in Lake Pontchartrain where depths are only 10-12ft. I think you'll be surprised what a brief burst of WOT will do for Hatt Trick. Those are "bulletproof" 12V71 naturals, you won't hurt 'em! RUN 'EM (at least once)!! The old gal will surely appreciate a good clearing of her throat and make you proud, especially after that little sub-surface experience! :D
 
You're probably right, as I am too chicken for a WOT run so far from home.
Err on the side of caution... Chain locker is full and the Ideall is no lightweight either. Most tools and parts are aft, but the staus of the fwd tanks is unknown. I will investigate that.
P.O. had the tanks valved per engine, and I hate to switch causing ANY type of fuel delivery problem; 450 gallons per tank is nothing to sneeze at. A couple of guys here told me to leave the valves alone with their tendency to leak at the packing if disturbed. I sure dont want a sucking wound right now!
Last trip seemed to clear the phlegm / sputum as mileage increased with each new fillup / day. Right now we are at about 100 miles and 120 - 130 gallons @ 1500 turns and 11 mph. !2's eat about one quart of Rotella per day.
Once home, I can "pop her in the snot box" and still get back on one if I need to, but I guess I'll need to plow another 800 miles to get there. Operating conditions are pretty stable and will play with tankage / trim.
There is / was soo much to do on the sub that everything is a new adventure. I still am finding new compartments and systems.
After this trip to R.I. for a generator, my new batteries should be here. Four EXIDE extreme duty 8 jolters at $129.00 each. That and the new 220 shore cord should have the A.C. and D.C. systems up to almost par.
All I need is BOSS LADY's davit hoist and a set of Chris Craft stanchion bases and I'll be good to go :D Gotta go for now-- next stop is dinner in NYC. Stay tuned... ws
 
I don't blame you one bit Bill, I'd wait to run her at WOT 'til I got home too. About the fwd tanks, are there inspection plates that you could pull without too much trouble? I agree about not valving them to the engines at this point but there has got to be a way to determine tank levels without opening fuel valves to the mains.

Why do you need to go to R.I. for a genset? I thought that you determined the engine side was good and all you needed was the armature side. Did the armature rewind/exchange guy I told you about not take care of you or did you manage to find a whole used genny for similar money?

Oh, about the 8v batteries. Get this- the Interstate rep MIS-QUOTED me at $70/each for the 8V-195's! All 8 came in yesterday and the dealer cost is actually $138 each (still not "about $155")! I called the distributor while the truck was here and they didn't know what they did wrong, suspecting that they quoted a US Battery part number and they ordered these directly from Interstate. All they could do was offer them to me at THEIR DISTRIBUTOR cost which was $131. Not bad, so I took all 8. I didn't think there was that much markup in those batteries but $70 is what they quoted me twice when I double-checked before ordering 8 of them!!

Actually what you need is to get rid of those darn pesky drag-inducing blue-water-only STABES that are slowing you down and probably shoving your bow down as well! If/when you get that davit from Chris, do you have anything to hoist with it? I may just have a nice little rigid inflatable (real console, no tiller steer) that could work for Hatt Trick. Food for thought.

Stay safe and warm on the road trip! BRRRR!!!!!
 

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