Good Windless - How to tighten up anchor line pull?

[Kim Beatley]

I have a Good Windless on my '72 -36C. I assume it it is originial equipment as I do not see any evidence of it being changed out. It still works but winch/pully, that the anchor rope passes through is beginning to slip. Is there any way to tighten up the tension on the rope puller unit? (Sorry, I am surching for the right name to call it!)

If the tension on the puller cannot be adjusted, recommendations on a replacement? I see on the Good website that they still make the units. Price seems OK. I have tried contacting the manfacture but have not had a response.

 

[Pascal]

Not familiar with this specific brand but on every windlass I ve seen you can tighten up the clutch using a winch handle inserted in the square hold at the top.

 

[Bill Allen]

Good windlass's are very popular up here but I'd call them and forget about the email thing. They'll rebuild, repair or trade in your unit. I've had them for years although when I started to cruise my boat I went to an ideal since the Good I had was rope only. Bill

 

[sgharford]

I have the Good all rope windlass on my 43 DC. 99% certain the capstan (wheel with groove that pulls up rope) is a solid cast part with no room for adjustment.

Could be you are using the wrong diameter rope, depending on model its either 1/2" or 5/8" - check their website. They sell colored coded replacement line at Good that I strongly recommend.

If the right line diameter they can rebuild them, like Bill said. Keep calling, allot of time they are at trade shows and their is physically no one there. I think it took me a couple of weeks to actually get them on phone.

 

[Bill Allen]

They're in the middle of the Jersey pines and honestly not really driven to return calls. Their nice people and do nice work but their kinda "piney's". What S said is true once that aluminum wheel wears it'll slip. The rope size is normally marked on the windlass. I still have the rope and use it on the dive boat. New wheel and line will take care of any slipping issue you may have. I had a hi torque motor put in mine since I have a super max anchor on the Hatt and it seemed to struggle getting the anchor up. It took care of the problem think I sold it to one of the people here when I put the ideal on. I liked the free fall feature on the GOOD. That said my Ideal is a much better unit, pulling my now all chain rode like a walk in the park. Bill

 

[sgharford]

You really have to baby a Good windlass due to lack of power. The only way I get mine to pull the anchor out is to get right on top of it and then drive over it to break it free. Only then will the Good pull it the rest of the way up.

 

[Boatnut]

You really have to baby a Good windlass due to lack of power. The only way I get mine to pull the anchor out is to get right on top of it and then drive over it to break it free. Only then will the Good pull it the rest of the way up.

I was taught and have heard it repeated many times, by windlass manufacturers as well. Driving over the anchor is the proper was to break it free. Pulling the boat with the windlass, and breaking the anchor free are not what windlasses are designed for.

 

[madhatter1]

By design the windlass cannot slip. As for the line slipping the tension arm must be fully functional in order to hold the line tight to the capstan. Mine needs some lube and exercise outside its normal range once in a while to keep the line spooling up. In a pinch just leave tension on the rode and pull up slowly to maintain tension. Then once free the anchor weight is enough to keep it from slipping. If the capstan is worn then The prices through Good are very reasonable to repair. I have had mine for five years and it works great and is super simple to work on or clear a chain jam.