Sam's is your source for Hatteras and Cabo Yacht parts.

Enter a part description OR part number to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog:

Email Sam's or call 1-800-678-9230 to order parts.

Glendinning Synchronizer Lubrication

  • Thread starter Thread starter eze2bme
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 12
  • Views Views 6,937

eze2bme

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
880
Hatteras Model
43' DOUBLE CABIN (1970 - 1984)
I have looked through my Glendinning Synchronizer manual and it says nothing about lubrication points. Is there any part of the unit that needs lubrication, and if so, where. Thanks.
 
I never have on any boat.
 
OK ... thanks guys ... just wanted to make certain that I wasn't missing a maintenance item!
 
I called the tech department recently because mine is stiff (no jokes) and they said to use a light oil like 3-in-one on the rods and some light abrasive pad if there is any corrosion. I haven't gotten around to it yet.
 
I called the tech department recently because mine is stiff (no jokes) and they said to use a light oil like 3-in-one on the rods and some light abrasive pad if there is any corrosion. I haven't gotten around to it yet.

What is the symptom that indicates to you that the synchronizer itself is stiff?
 
Must be the pull switch because there is no other way to actually feel anything that effects the syncronizer. My suggestion would be to check the throttle cables. They may be the thing you think is sticky.
 
I called the tech department recently because mine is stiff (no jokes) and they said to use a light oil like 3-in-one on the rods and some light abrasive pad if there is any corrosion. I haven't gotten around to it yet.

When you open up the operating case, you see that the whole interior is essentially loaded with heavy grease. The movement inside helps move the grease around to the operating parts. I would think light weight oil is of little use and it would be better to remove the cover and spread the grease around if it has settled.
 
By "stiff" I meant that the slave engine throttle takes too much strength to move. I know it is in the synchronizer because I took the throttle cables loose and they moved fine. I could also move the engine throttle by hand, so that cable is not the problem. I did loosen the throttle spring on the engine, and that helped, but it is still too stiff. I still haven't gotten around to trying the oil, but will post the results.
 
By "stiff" I meant that the slave engine throttle takes too much strength to move. I know it is in the synchronizer because I took the throttle cables loose and they moved fine. I could also move the engine throttle by hand, so that cable is not the problem. I did loosen the throttle spring on the engine, and that helped, but it is still too stiff. I still haven't gotten around to trying the oil, but will post the results.

I'd call Glendinning before I started messing with that. Are your controls hydraulic? If so the lockout block that mounts to the Glendinning can get funky. Replacing that cured me of the same issue.
 
FYI, a bad control cable with no load can feel just fine. Adding the load from the governor, synchronizer, or selector valve can significantly increase the drag. If the cables are old, replacement is in order. Glendinning has a great control cable available. I wouldn't buy the red ones.

Ross
 
Bob, really thought you were going to say the getting "stiff" part, not getting to the point where there's nothing left to maintain....................Pat
 

Forum statistics

Threads
38,156
Messages
448,729
Members
12,482
Latest member
UnaVida

Latest Posts

Trending content

Back
Top Bottom