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Glendenning Synchronizer

  • Thread starter Thread starter Karl
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Karl

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I've had so many problems with my Glendenning engine synchornizer that I'm ready to just disconnect it and never use it again. I'm curious how many of you have had problem free use of your synchronizer and would not do away with it? I own a 1985 32' Hatt w/flybridge w/new Yanmar diesels. Thanks.
 
My 1965 50'MY had one installed the year before I bought her, 11 years ago. I have never had ANY downtime with the unit. The only failure I had was a broken tach drive cable from the side feeding the unit.

I use it from the minute I back away from the dock until I'm ready to dock again.

K
 
Glendennings are extremely simple and, in my experience, practically bulletproof. Assuming the appropriate throttle and related adjustments are correct, good chance any problems are electrical-connection related. In fact anytime ANYthing using electricity on a boat is erratic or fails, suspect electrical connections.

You may already have this but complete info including set up and troubleshooting is available at their website:
http://www.glendinningprods.com/sync.html
 
I have use mine all the time for years and I've never had a single problem with it. Have you checked the backpressure on your slave engine throttle control box?

Doug
 
I had one on Gigabite and aside from lubricating the solenoid throw a couple of times, had zero trouble with it.

I consider them bombproof.
 
I've had two units on two different boats and wouldn't be without one.

Did have slipping clutches on an old model on a previuos boat. i called them, they were very helpful on the phone, and repaced the unit with a new one for much less than buying new.....

Bernie
 
Sounds like you should contact manufacturer for overhaul instructions.

On a slightly different note, I have never had synchronizers. I can pretty well synch the engines just by sound. When they are off there is a "beat," a pulsating sound wave. Adjust throttles until it disappears and you are within a few rpm of matched. (If you want to practice, just leave the engine room doors open. You will really notice the beat!) Or, using the digital tachometers of my recently installed FloScan meters in the salon I can do it immediately. Most of my running is offshore in legs of 10-100 miles, so I don't have to synch as often as if I was constantly speeding up and slowing down. Works for me.
 
I agree; bulletproof, use it from dock to stop; wouldn't be without it.
 
Thanks for the feedback.
 
I'M SCARED TO USE MINE :( FIRST THE RPM CABLE WENT BAD. MECH. FIXED IT THEN I'D BE CRUSEING FINE AND OUT OF THE BLUE THE BOAT WOULD SLAM LEFT ( LIKE THAT NEW CRUIES SHIP ) GOOD THING I WAS AT THE CONTROLS IT'S DONE IT TWICE NOW SOMETIME AFTER I'M GOING FOR 10-20 MINUTES LIKE SOMETHING HEATS UP AND POPS MAYBE A CYLINOID THE MECH. SAID ? :confused: YOU KNOW HOW THEY ARE KEEP REPLACING STUFF TILL THE PROBLEM GOES AWAY. :(
 
Does the boat turn left because the stb engine speeds up or is it the port engine slows down? Which is the slave engine ? Was the boat on AP? Sounds more like an autopilot problem to me.......................Pat
 
I like mine but it is a little 'funny' to work with. When I switch it on - nothing, then when I switch it back off, it comes on (indicated by the red light). It seems to keep both engines in synch - but doesn't always want to turn off when I switch it back on. It seems to be opposite the switch. I use it all day everyday once past the breakwalls, but it seems a little fickle. I suspect an adjustment of some sort (??? genius heh??). It's on my list for this winter.

Bear'
1984 61' MY Strategic Plan
 
Bear,

There should be 2 switches, one at the PH helm and one on the bridge. If one is pulled out, it is on. If both are pulled out, it is off. So, depending on whether or not the bridge switch is out, the lower helm switch could be on or off when it is pulled out. If it is just intermittent and the switches are set correctly, then it is probably a poor electrical connection to one of the switches.
 
The boat will normally yaw left/right if you increase/decrease the throttle because the slave engine lags the lead engine a bit. If the idle/WOT rpm is not set properly, the synchro will disconnect. Could that be the problem?

For example, at WOT if the slave engine cannot match the lead engine's RPM, the Sync will shut off. Then, if the slave engine's throttle boost spring tension is not properly set, the slave engine will drop to idle. If this happens, there would be a MAJOR yaw in the direction of the slave engine.

The throttle boost spring is supposed to be adjusted so that if the sync disconnects, the slave engine should not drop more than 200 RPM. Also the lead engine should have its idle set ABOVE the slave engine and its WOT below the slave engine.

My synchro used to disconnect at WOT or at idle because the engines were not properly set. It doesn't really matter if you don't use the sync at the extremes but I adjusted the idle so that the lead engine is 30 RPM higher than the slave and it's WOT is 25 RPM below it.
 
I never used the sync to attain cruise or anything like that - I sync by hand and then turn it on to hold.

That's the right way to do it unless you like bashing the lead engine (which is going to be overloaded badly until the slave catches up) a lot.
 
Yeah. I kind of agree. If I accelerate rapidly to cruise or WOT (OK, no jokes about the fact that a 53MY and "rapidly" don't belong in the same sentence), I do it manually.

But normally after I get out of the slip and have completed the diferential tranny maneuvering, I have the engines at idle (5 knots) and engage the sync. When I clear the (endless!) no wake zone, I throttle up to around 1400 RPM which gives me 10K in smooth water. The boat will yaw to the right until the slave (starboard) engine comes up to equal RPM. I've done it so many times that I automatically turn the wheel as the sync is engaged to compensate.

As I said, if I go to WOT, (make sure your seat belts are fastened, don't try this at home!) I don't use the sync to get there.
 
CARL GUZMAN said:
I'M SCARED TO USE MINE FIRST THE RPM CABLE WENT BAD. MECH. FIXED IT GOOD THING I WAS AT THE CONTROLS
YEA!!! Really good thing!;)
 
My Synchro works about with all of the flaws or designs described above.

At age 30, it also has a unique trait in that it will not work at all if the temperature is below 55. Fortunately that is about 5 days a year.

If I run it for 3 days straight it will work throughout the range of rpm's.

A week off and it will only work if I synch and then turn it on.

All of these things provide a delightful amount of entertainment that reminds me of trimming sails back when I didn't think about the price of diisel or that boats can actually get from point A to B in a predictable amount of time.

Bruce
 
I've had a couple of boats with Glendinning syncs and I must admit I have had little or no problems with them. Once about a doz yrs ago on one of my NJ to FL trips I had some sort of problem (I can't remember exactly what it was, but I remember it was minor) and I called Glendenning in SC. Paul G. took my call and offered to meet me at a marina in SC (Little River I think - I have made 29 trips up and down over many years and it's hard to remember everything). The next morning at 7AM, Paul arrived with a set of tools and parts and within a few minutes took care of it. I think he refused payment as well. Well, I never had another problem with it and the present owner of that boat still uses it all the time without failure.

My experience with the Glendenning company has been 100% positive and I will always recommend them. As a matter of fact I plan to have a set of their electronic control systems with remote installed this fall. Anyone have any experience with these controls? Let me know how you like or dislike them. Thanks......

Walt P
 

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