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glass repair

  • Thread starter Thread starter ageless
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ageless

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I have removed the factory bow rail after it was significantly bent on the port side. I want to repair the mounting areas on the toe rail and a few other small/moderate glass chips, then roll/tip. I have done research and feel like buying the $200 west epoxy kit (slow hardener)should get the job done. Are there any suggestions that may be a better choice?

Some of the chips are on the hull side step (as pictured), would epoxy be the best option for these repairs??

input on best roll/tip paint? I like what I've read about Alexseal, have a friend that insists I use awlgrip (which didn't have great reviews as a rolling paint).
 
Hull damage
 

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I have repaired similar areas successfully using Marinetex. Perfection is my paint of choice.
 
Marine-Tex for chips. It only comes in bright white or grey though. If you put too much on, it's a bitch to sand down without scratching up the area. So, it's delicate surgery...go light and add until you can smooth it just right.

133884_FUL.webpI'm not looking forward to about a dozen spots along the rub rail.
 
Marine-Tex for chips. It only comes in bright white or grey though. If you put too much on, it's a bitch to sand down without scratching up the area. So, it's delicate surgery...go light and add until you can smooth it just right.View attachment 50990I'm not looking forward to about a dozen spots along the rub rail.
That’s true, but a single edge razor blade will shave excess fairy well.
 
Marinetex is great and very strong but very hard to sand. For minor cracks, chips, etc you re much better off with a softer filler. I only use West System products. I d go with either 405 or 407 which will sand much more easily. Since the volume is very low, you can use either the 205 or 206 hardeners

You should use whatever paint you already have, likely Awlgrip.
 
How deep are they?

Alexseal has a filler that sands like a dream and is great in their process and others . it's used over primer and mixes 1 to 1.

I'd use a good epoxy primer sealer to start. Add the fairing compound then prime again before painting to match.

All brands use similar preparation. Painting is the final task and should be done with a matching product to Whats on there.
 
The thing about chips is they’re often on a radiused corner. Marintetex stays in place out of the box allowing you to sculpt. Since it’s water soluble, it’s simple to feather the product after 30-40 minutes. If you make a profile tool, keep it wet and observe the time, one can eliminate a lot of sanding. The use of wedge and/or radiused rubber sanding blocks makes final sanding go quickly. I recently completed de-chipping on my foredeck using this process.
 
West system 6/ten its caulking gun easy with the static mixing tip. tape off and use a plastic putty spreader. as with all west system products, it produces amine blush that must be washed off with water and a scrub pad before sanding. 'I put that s#!t on everything'
 
Pascul, we're pretty much West System all the time but if you don't have a lot of experience mixing up various putty formulations 3M's vinylester putty might be a good product to use in this case.
And you're also right about about having everything the same hardness because the softer parts will get gouged out while trying to sand the harder spots.

The day before we went in the water this spring we noticed a gouge on the hull side, maybe 14 inches long x 1/4" wide x 1/4- 1/8 deep, was hit in the yard after it was detailed. Anyway, no time for epoxy repair, 3M's putty, spot primed and top coated the same day, wet sanded and buffed it out while getting loaded up in the travel lift the next day.
 
I'm wondering if anyone has found a repair epoxy , filler or fairing compound that dries close to Hatteras White in color. I'd rather avoid painting if it's a really small chip or crack like the size of a dime or quarter.

Would be tempting to keep experimenting with a dye or coloring agent into Marine-Tex or West Systems Six-10 until you came up with the right mix....and be able to repeat it. However I tried that once with an old red Donzi I had and the tinted version of the Marine Tex never fully cured even after a year in the sun.

Suggestions ?
 
I think you have to cover epoxy from the sun however?
 
I have done repair of very small but noticeable chips by adding paint into the chip void with a toothpick. No paint outside the void. Works great and I’m amazed at how well the repair holds up. Don’t think it would work on something the size of a dime though.
 
I have done repair of very small but noticeable chips by adding paint into the chip void with a toothpick. No paint outside the void. Works great and I’m amazed at how well the repair holds up. Don’t think it would work on something the size of a dime though.
What paint do you use Awlgrip ? The problem I had with the Marinetex is by the time I added enough of the die to match the color the consistency was like soup. At that point I didn’t know if I needed to adjust the mix with more hardner or putty. If you add more putty the color is off again.
 
Marine tex is NOT UV stable. It has to be painted.
 
If you really don’t want to involve paint, buy gel coat and tint it to match the hatt off white The link here for spectrum will provide everything you would need. Only difference between a painted repair and yours would be the accuracy in filling the hole because you can’t use the typical sanding/polishing to blend. A little polishing but the surrounding paint is limiting factor. Spectrum is to the trade nominally, you’ll need to open a CC account. https://spectrumcolor.com/
 
If you really don’t want to involve paint, buy gel coat and tint it to match the hatt off white The link here for spectrum will provide everything you would need. Only difference between a painted repair and yours would be the accuracy in filling the hole because you can’t use the typical sanding/polishing to blend. A little polishing but the surrounding paint is limiting factor. Spectrum is to the trade nominally, you’ll need to open a CC account. https://spectrumcolor.com/
Thanks I’ll check this out
 

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