Glass over windshield

[schuter]

I would like to remove the windshield and glass them over this winter. They leak terrible and aren't worth saving. I would like to order the material before I remove the windows. I plan to use Coosa board to fill the window holes. Can anyone verify the thickness of the windshield structure? I assume its 3/4", but hate to order the wrong material.

Thanks
Schuter

 

[Eddieclemons]

You can't put a value on the view out the window of a boat. I guess it really depends on how you use the vessel.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Since they don't open, what about frameless windows and permanently mounted glass panels? I just looked for Lookout who advertise on the HOF- their site is under maintenance, but see if it comes back up. If you can substitute modern windows, that would be a good alternative.

 

[dsharp]

There are 2 ways to go about what you are wanting to do. You can put the coosa board in the existing hole and glass over until you have the proper build up. The down side is you will spend a great deal of time and effort getting the surface “fair” to where it can be primes and painted. The second way is lay up panels on a flat surface then grind the edges back 3-4 inches and glass the panels to the existing glass. You can then glass the back side and fill with coosa or 3/4” plywood then cover with a finish grade plywood to match the existing salon material. It will save you a lot of long board fairing. The panels can be laid up on a hollow core door with a layer of Formica or any flat surface

 

[Bob Bradley]

There are 2 ways to go about what you are wanting to do. You can put the coosa board in the existing hole and glass over until you have the proper build up. The down side is you will spend a great deal of time and effort getting the surface “fair” to where it can be primes and painted. The second way is lay up panels on a flat surface then grind the edges back 3-4 inches and glass the panels to the existing glass. You can then glass the back side and fill with coosa or 3/4” plywood then cover with a finish grade plywood to match the existing salon material. It will save you a lot of long board fairing. The panels can be laid up on a hollow core door with a layer of Formica or any flat surface

That's how I did my 43. In the inside I installed 3 panels from 1/2" ribbon cut teak veneer plywood with teak battens covering the seams. I also built a big cabinet up on the "dash" area under the windows. Great for duffel bag storage on offshore trips. I also mounted my TV there. I'll put up some pics later when I'm on my desktop.

 

[jim rosenthal]

There is another way to do this- buy preformed fiberglass panels from McMaster-Carr- I think they offer a 4x4 size in different thicknesses, or from Strongwell, and use them to fill in the openings left when you remove the frames. You still have to finish the inside, which I think would involve Coosa board and then veneered plywood, but it might make the exterior part a little easier.

 

[schuter]

Appreciate the responses. I have no desire to keep the windows, too retro looking. I appreciate the alternate methods of covering these, had not thought about prefabing the panels. I am going to look into that.

Thanks
Schuter

 

[Cricket]

Another premade panel option if you want to go a little exotic. Their panels are very straight, gelcoat work is tight.
https://www.carbon-core.com/store/
Merritt Marine Supply is good www to do material research.

I would frame out the interior opening to receive whatever premade panels you choose to be glued in from the outside.
Grind and glass all the seams. There's going to be a lot of grinding and fairing no matter your method.
There's a good chance you're going to find some surprises once you get the metal frames out so be ready to address whatever you find.
If your using plywood try to go with Okoume or Maranti or Bruynzelle, once you've used it you won't want to work with anything else.
Just make sure to dry fit everything before final install. Good luck and don't forget to post photos.