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generator wire size and type

  • Thread starter Thread starter MarioG
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MarioG

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
58' YACHT FISHERMAN (1970 - 1981)
I'm currently replacing the power wires from the new genny to the electrical panel. aside from from proper size and rating, is there a difference in wire strand and insulation between Dc and AC wire. what type of wire can I use?
 
What size generator? That and the length of run to the panel will determine the wire size (gauge). You'll want 4-conductor tinned marine grade wire.

GenuineDealz.com will probably have the best price.
 
Wire is graded by the number of strands and the thickness of those strands. Home Depot stranded wire, for example, has a smaller number of thick strands which is suitable for low vibration applications, like houses. Where you incur maximum vibration, like a generator and main engine starters, you likely want as flexible a wire type as possible. If no one has a specific recommendation here it might be a good idea to get some professional feedback say from a genny installer about what wire he prefers.

I know welding wire is very thin stranded and very soft and flexible and others have mentioned they have used it for battery cables, but I'm not positive enough about it to recommend it here.

One thing I did on my genny when I first bought my 1972 Hatt was to fold some (clean) absorbant oil pads under a place where friction was wearing on the main genny wire insulation. I tied the pad in place with some plastic cable ties and that soft "bed" remained so for the 11 years I ran the boat. You'll also want to be sure the rubber inserts in entry/exit holes at the genny are still in good shape..otherwise those metal edges, if exposed, will cut thru the wire.
 
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MARINE wire is different in a few basic ways.

1) the number of strands is higher making it more flexible and less succeptable to breakage.

2) the outer housing is Oil and solvent resistant.

3) The outer housing is "plenum" rated thereby not giving off poisonous gas if it burns.

4) It is better to have tinned than un tinned.

IT IS NOT CHEAP.

6 Ga 4 conductor cable is $6-700 per 100 foot spool. remember freight can be a bear too
 
You will want 4 ga for that gen, a 15kw will put out 64 amps per leg. Hatteras uses a cable for the gens and it was cheaper than buying a generic cable. I bet SAMS has it and you can buy it by the foot.
 
Straight from "The Good Book":

Welding cable is often used for battery cables on boats. However, the welding cable’s insulation must be oil and water-resistant. Cable that is not oil and water resistant may become impregnated with the water or oil and reduce the insulation’s effectiveness. ABYC E-9.15.2 covers the requirements for the construction of cables and conductors.
 
If I remember correctly SO and SOW are not good for marine applications.

Check before you buy.
 
Cable is not cable and jackets and insulation are not all the same.

The oil and water resistance is just one part of the marine spec.

I believe the outer jacket needs to be self extinguishing and if burned will not emit toxic smoke. There is a science to cable jackets for different types of uses.

marine rated cable meets the standard of both UL and ABYC and is consideres safe in the vessel. it would suck to drop a grand in cable and have a surveyor tell you to replace it before the insurance will kick in.

* UL Standard 1426: Electrical Cable for Boats
* SAE J378: Marine Propulsion Systems Wiring
* SAE J1127: Low-Voltage Battery Cables
* SAE J1128: Low-Voltage Primary Cables
* ABYC E-11-2008: Standard for AC and DC Electrical Systems on Boats
* ABYC E-10-2006: Storage Batteries
* USCG: Title 33, CFR 183 Subpart I, Section 183


If each wire is not covered by its code or section it may make the boat mensurable or if a fire were to occur you lose because something was not in spec.


This is not a place to cut corners or take chances.
 
I do not know of any new boats that do not use the properly rated cable. I also do not know of any available marine cable that is not plenum rated.

When I had my boat surveyed the inspection found a few non marine cables that had to be removed. We also found hoses that were not up to spec and some plastic fittings below the waterline. Upon the re inspection for the insurance company I showed all the changes and had the spool of remaining cable for the surveyor to see. It was clearly marked for marine use.

SO cable is for non permanent use in open areas. It has a soft jacket and is made to resist damage from being moved, coiled and uncoiled.

Machine and tool cable is made for limited movement applications where oil resistant coats are needed but the conductors are few and rigid. solid copper is for permanent installations where the cable will not be moved. That is why they use solid copper. Each application has a specific design.
 
This is why I spend lots of money on wire.

I have had to buy some stuff at $10+ a foot and it is not fun but it beats doing it twice when you buy it the second time.
 

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