Gel Batteries vs Wet

[jrmccoy]

Gentlemen I’m having some starting bank battery issues causing me to think about battery technology. Is there a general agreement or not yet on whether or not the gel batteries are the way to go? I suppose it might be hard to find an 8 volt gel battery. Also....while I’m at it I’ll revisit that concept I’ve heard guys on this forum doing, of using 3 x 12 batteries and running both starting banks and house at 36v. What are the pros and cons of doing that? I’d be worried to stress her 32v system too much.

 

[Pascal]

36v will not work because your alternators and chargers will not charge the batteries. The only way to make it work would be to use 36v chargers and alternators. Not worth it

AGMs are nice when access is difficult and adding water is a problem. Personally I ve never gotten longer lifetime with AGMs, on a number of boats with the proper chargers etc. seems like 4 to 5 years like flooded batteries is the real world life expectancy

Of course all these marinas and professional installers will pitch the more expensive stuff... on boats i run with AGMs I stick with them but see no benefits over flooded

 

[Boatsb]

Remember the starting batteries and deep cycle batteries are not made the same. Remember that chargers may not address different types the way they need to be.

32 volts is a orphan voltage and no new developments are expected in that arena.

Using smaller deep cycle batteries will not handle the starter draw well.

Using starter batteries will not he as effective with deep cycle uses.

Before going crazy on gel batteries think about splitting the house loads and other deep cycle requirements to a new 24 volt system and start the conversion.


Basically 32 volt systems are not the best thing since sliced bread but were developed around the same time.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Before you replace anything, I'd look at all the battery cables, all the connections, etc, to make sure that they are all in good shape. 32vdc systems are very old, but that system started your engines for years without problems- so what is different now? Also check all the battery cells with a hydrometer- you may have a bad cell or two.

I have never had a boat with a 32vdc system, but it seems to me that a lot of the problems are not from 32 volts itself, but the added complexity of having four 8v batteries to make up 32 volts, which they have at least two banks of, so eight 8v batteries. There are so many additional failure points. With all that, a healthy 32v system will do its job, but it will always be more complex.

I htink modern Hatteras yachts do have 24vdc systems, and they are probably less complex and better, but the expense to change it all over would not be trivial. I'd get what you have working as it's supposed to before you do anything else.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Changing the system that is there is going to be expensive. You can't just go to 36v because the batteries will be under charged. You can't go to 24v without changing everything that draws from that bank. Your best bet is to keep the 32v system and invest in good batteries and a good smart charger.

My Analytic 32v smart charger quit a couple of months ago. I was not happy, but I sent it back to Analytic and they fixed it for $185 including shipping even though it was almost 10 years old. You can't beat that.

If you have never had a unit that can perform an equalization charge, you are not getting the full life out of your batteries. The old Charles or Sentry chargers are ruining your batteries. Move on from 1950 technology and at least get 1990's tech

 

[whoover]

Hello,

My boat is 12 volt so I don't have the issues others have with 32 volts but I was only getting a reliable three seasons from my starting batteries. Even after having the alternators serviced and voltage regulators checked I was having starting issues. What made all the difference was new battery cables, night and day change. I did them myself and was able to neaten up the runs at the same time. I still have the Sentry charger I just keep an eye on it and water levels.

Walt Hoover

 

[Photolomy]

My batteries are AGM, but only two years old so far. They have been trouble free and I am pretty happy with them. They are mainly starting batteries, as I do not have an inverter and when I am out, the generator is running. I do like not having to check water levels.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

My batteries are AGM, but only two years old so far. They have been trouble free and I am pretty happy with them. They are mainly starting batteries, as I do not have an inverter and when I am out, the generator is running. I do like not having to check water levels.

My experience with AGM's is not good. Check back when you get ten years on them and let us know.

You can get 10 years on Rolls wet cells or with Gel Cells too, but AGM's will probably not last more than 5 or 6, in my experience. I have had gel cell batteries as an inverter bank in motorhomes since the early 90's. I always get just about 10 years out of them. In the boat, my Rolls have been 9-13 years. I'd like to hear from anyone that has gotten 10 years out of any AGM.

 

[jrmccoy]

Thanks for the kind input. So to some responses, I have an outback 3232 running a load of stuff, and have the mains alternators set to charge the banks while underway, so no intent to change voltage away from 32v.

Also, one thing I didn't mention, but a couple of you did....my battery banks are brutally difficult to service for water, so the gel options looking better all the time.

I'd love to get 10 years on my banks but have been running 3-4.

My question, there is someone on here that sells Rolls batteries or could tell me preferred outlet for a bank of Rolls...I may get up to 8 x 8v making two banks so need to get the price right.

 

[MadHatter53]

I also have a 32V system, my stbd bank has been giving me issues with slowly draining and not holding a full charge well. If and when I get in the water I'm gonna have a look and see what's what. I have the orig lamarshe battery charger and would like to also get something newer. I couldn't find any 8v Rolls batteries when I looked last year and not many choices in 32V chargers. I'm hoping my battery issue is an easy fix so I'm not dropping $4k on batteries.

 

[Scarlett]

Usually Rolls batteries are 2 volt you just wire them to get 32. John

 

[jrmccoy]

Dripless Water Seals

Gents I’m doing some budgeting for a haul out during which time I’m planning on getting some more involved things done. My proximity to and appreciation for Robert Clarkston and Aslan has given me “bilge envy” and I’d like to have dripless seals installed while she’s out. Any consensus on preferred brand and estimated price range for a 53my?Cheers

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

JR, most kind, thanks. Tides are what I have and they’re great. Suggest two spare seal carriers for each shaft. But in 5 years I’ve failed to need them. What yard are you using?

 

[Boatsb]

I just had to readjust a last drop system that was flooding the bilge. A other customer bounced off the bottom when a cooling line broke on a pyi. Tides has their issues too.


Any scoring or wear on a diet shaft is a problem. Hoses fail, fitting crack, lip seals dry out. A gortex packing will be better and more reliable long term. But what do I know. I'm an electronics guy.


Spend your money on something better. Add a new RADAR or satellite radio.

 

[Pascal]

I used Tides as well when I repowered two years ago. Don’t recall the cost but worth it. I ve put probably close to 10k hours on larger boats i run with them. Bullet proof.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

These guys have the best price on Rolls

https://www.epowerrail.com/

 

[krush]

Tides seals are lip seals that ride on the shaft. They also seem to be the most expensive. If I were to go dripless, I would do LasDrop Gen II (mechanical seal aka "face seal"). Well built (I inspected in person) and good design.

I removed a tides off my boat in good shape, 2inch shaft, 3" stern tube. Make me an offer if it fits. I went to standard packing boxes using GFO packing.....hopefully I won't regret it!

 

[jim rosenthal]

I have had PSS shaft seals for about 18 years. The original bellows, which were supposed to last 7-8 years, maybe not that long, lasted 15. They were still usable when they were taken out and replaced with updated ones which were even more robust.

Having said that, this: GoreTex packing etc did not exist when I made the changeover. If I were doing it now, I would most likely stick with standard shaft alleys or packing glands, whatever they're called, and use GoreTex packing material. I suspect it would work just as well.

Keeping the PSS units tightened on the shaft is essential. The one problem I had was caused by my inattention to exactly that.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

I have had PSS shaft seals for about 18 years. The original bellows, which were supposed to last 7-8 years, maybe not that long, lasted 15. They were still usable when they were taken out and replaced with updated ones which were even more robust. Having said that, this: GoreTex packing etc did not exist when I made the changeover. If I were doing it now, I would most likely stick with standard shaft alleys or packing glands, whatever they're called, and use GoreTex packing material. I suspect it would work just as well.Keeping the PSS units tightened on the shaft is essential. The one problem I had was caused by my inattention to exactly that.

I worked on a neighbors boat about every other year tightening his PSS seals. If they aren’t tight they can leak a surprising volume.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Just remember, there are set screws under the set screws on that ring. It took me a minute or two to figure that out. I backed them off and it wouldn't move. I kept backing one out until it was out all the way and looked in there and I saw another one.

PSS was already on my boat when I bought it so I wasn't really familiar with them. Now I know.