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GE appliances

  • Thread starter Thread starter cb48lrc
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cb48lrc

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Mar 7, 2011
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240
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
48' LRC (1976 - 1981)
We installed a GE cooktop this past August, and now it will not heat. I have confirmed that I have 240 volts to it. So the issue appears to be a bad cooktop. The concern is warranty since it is on a boat. Has anyone had any issues with warranty from GE on appliances. Please let me know, I have a GE service tech coming Tuesday that is if they will work on a boat.
 
It's a home appliance, that's your home. Why shouldn't they warranty it?
 
Sears honors their appliance warranty on Windsong.
 
Dito on the home concept! The is no different on board or land.

Make the representatives your friend with a starter tip.
it goes a long way.

JM
 
Shouldn't be an issue as long as they don't see Commercial use.

If there's signs of abuse they will not warranty it.
 
Right. Like if the boat was in commercial service or something like that. But as long as it's your home, they should be obligated to warranty it. They can't tell you where to live. Or where to cook.
 
First of all, read the warranty. Second of all, the local guy is going to want to get his reimbursement from GE, (who installed it by the way?) so it is not like he is going to cause any issues unless for some reason it is super difficult to get the thing out, another reason to know what is in the warranty.
Is the problem with the entire cooktop, that is, all the burners are out? If so, (unless it is some very fancy/complicated design) it is most likely a problem with a bad connection somewhere in the circuit, which may be at your panel. For instance, I had an issue with a microwave that I thought had gone bad, turned out to be a loose, as in not fully tight, connection at the panel.
 
Not sure what type you have, but some cooktops have an internal fuse or circuit breaker system. If you have access to beneath the surface, it's usually located in that area. Hopefully it is something simple.
 
I had the microwave/oven and cook top installed by a ABYC electrician. I have 240v at the breaker that feeds both units. The microwave/oven works, the cooktop electronic controls light up buy the burners do not get hot. The cooktop was working after the install on dock power and on my 9kw gen but not on the 15kw gen. (Found this out after we were on the hook and miles away from the yard) I have confirmed that I have 240v from both gens, now the thing will not work on dock, or ether gen. We have a GE service rep coming Tuesday and the unit is ready to be lifted out. I will let all know what the end result is.
 
Microwave does not use 240. You lost one leg of the 240 some where.
 
Microwave does not use 240. You lost one leg of the 240 some where.

Makes sense.

I bet the control board in the stovetop uses 1 leg and neutral.
 
The GE Advantiun we installed is a 240v unit. Per the installation manual "240 V Models: The wall outlet receptacle recommended for this appliance is NEMA #14–30R and accepts the four-prong grounded plug of this appliance." When the electrician wired both units(oven and cooktop) he added a junction box connecting the feed wires and cooktop and a wall outlet for the oven. He did this by crimping and soldering in the junction box. I can't see how the oven gets power but not the cooktop.
 
I've only had an issue once, and it arose when the guy got there and refused to come on board. The guy kept telling me "I don't work on boats. You need a marine person to do this." Understand that the broken appliance had nothing to do with how it was installed on the boat - it had something wrong with it internally that would not permit it to run - didn't matter whether it was plugged into the boat, or into an outlet in the house.

I escalated the issue up the food chain ladder and he was quickly sent back to the boat in full apology mode. So long as you are not asking them to work on anything beyond their appliance, it should not be an issue, and don't let them get away with trying to make it one. I never tell them upfront that it's a boat so they don't have time to think about it and start getting their panties in a wad - I live in a gated community as far as they are concerned and they can call me when they get to the parking lot.

As it turns out, my problem described above was a manufacturing defect and they took the dishwasher back and a replacement was ordered.
 
The plot thickens! GE service center could not find anyone that would come to the boat. We only had one choice here in Brunswick, GA. So I was going to pull the unit out and take it to them. Before I went to all the trouble I was confirming that I had 240v going to it. I opened the junction box, and pushed my meter leads into the heat shrink. Sure enough I had 240v going to the cook top. I then turned on the cook top and to my total surprise it worked. With the breaker off I pushed and pulled on the wires. No loose connection. I then cut off the heat shrink to do a visual inspection. The feed wires are connected to the cook top and oven using copper crimp sleeve and soldered then sealed with heat shrink. GE has confirmed that the warranty is good as long as the nit is installed correctly. I have confirmed with GE that if the problem shows up again that they will fix it.
Not knowing what is going on bothers the H out of me. I called the appliance store I purchased it from, my thought is that since it has electronic controls it may not like to be cycled on and off. They are going to talk to the tech and let me know, but for now we can fry the eggs.
 
This is good news all around. I'm glad that it's working again. I'm also pleased that the GE folks might cooperate. I just recently ordered and new refrigerator/freezer for my 41TC that is a GE product. I finally made the decision to replace the original 1966 Frigidaire - which still works fine. I just want a modern more efficient unit with better insulation and a separate freezer.
 
... I finally made the decision to replace the original 1966 Frigidaire - which still works fine...
I guess that's the definition of a durable good
 
To be fair - the owner before me had it completely rebuilt with a new compressor.
 
I would be really worried that you moved wires and it started working. Somewhere I remember soldering crimp terminals is a big no no!
 
This was the last guy that soldered crimp terminals
 

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Which GE unit, Eric? The original was in a lot of Hatteras yachts, it would be useful to know what the replacement is. Does it fit directly, or does the fridge opening have to be reworked to install it?
 

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