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gasketing & sealing

  • Thread starter Thread starter Paul45c
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Paul45c

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Hey, all. I was just curious what everyone uses for different kinds of gasket & thread sealants with their projects for the following:

- raw water threaded fittings
- threaded oil/fuel fittings (where necessary - i.e. turbocharger)
- sealants around gaskets (i.e. heat exchanger or impeller flanges)

or just about anywhere else.
 
- raw water threaded fittings
- threaded oil/fuel fittings (where necessary - i.e. turbocharger)
- sealants around gaskets (i.e. heat exchanger or impeller flanges)

I use Perfect Seal for all three of the above

I use Anti Seize on any bolt threading into aluminum (and many other bolts, depending on their application - specifically any used in attaching engine RW or FW Coolant components)

IF two gasket mating surfaces are not true and I feel that the surface is sufficiently poor that a gasket/Perfect Seal might not work, AND for some reason I decided not to true up the surfaces (though I can't think of why I wouldn't other than an emergency repair) I would wipe a VERY thin film of silicone sealer on both sides of the gasket rather than using Perfect Seal. I use silicone very rarely.
 
Interesting. What is Perfect Seal, exactly? I don't recall ever seeing it.
 
http://www.mercstuff.com/perfectseal.htm

It's nothing more than a standard old shellac-(alcohol) based gasket sealer. It's very old tech but it works very well. It never hardens completely and doesn't turn into "glue" like silicone does when used as a gasket or gasket sealer. Also no worries about Squeeze-out.

It's good stuff - coupled with good mating surfaces and proper torque, our 71TIs are essentially leak-free.

As an aside, many leaks are caused by overtightening which distorts the flanges/mating surfaces. Once they are distorted, the only thing that will stop them from leaking is gobs of silicone which creates a whole 'nother set of problems.
 
It is similar to Permatex #2 aviation gasket sealer.
 
Hey Paul! Meant to say hi last night but Ive been catching HE double hockey sticks here lately!
A note on gasketing... Permanent and non-permanent
If theres ever a chance of taking something apart, I spray glue the gasket on one side and never sieze the other; instant re-use. Also provides a third hand to hold a gasket while bolting.
NS on both sides if you re-need the gasket.
PTFE pipe dope on fittings. Tighten loosely! The stuff will set up and may need heat to help dis-assemble. Teflon tape is for the "Bob Vilas" out there!
For a permanent gasket or problem job, Loctite anaerobic sealant in a tube. Looks like grape jelly! Stays soft until clamped, then w/o air sets up to a plastic gasket. Very forgiving on problem leaks.
Hope all is well with your new adventure! Its 27F here and windy... I need Florida! ws
 
#2 Permatex is classic old style which stays soft...and gets over everything...I like hi temp silicone gasket sealer...the red stuff...It's supposed to be ok as a gasket itself, but a thin film on either side of real gaskets helps stick it in place during assembly....I've used teflon tape but I like the silicone gasket sealer a bit more even though it can,too, be messy if you're not careful. I use antiseize...the silver stuff...on every stud I take off my engines or gennys.

I recently replaced a an engine heat exchanger gasket after about nine years and the bolts came off and the gasket removed without difficulty..
Likely it's a good idea to retighten bolts/studs after installing new gaskets during the first season of use...they always seem to compress so when you go back to retighten, they seem almost loose.
 
Although it's a personal preference, I'm not much of a fan of "permanent" assembly, especially for our old-tech engines. IMHO anything that will make future disassembly difficult or in any way non-standard (for me or someone else) should be avoided if possible.

Teflon tape: As mentioned, not only is teflon tape inappropriate, it can cause SERIOUS problems in engines and fuel systems. When the assy is tightened, the tape will tear/flake, leaving loose fragments to find their way into areas that they shouldn't be, possibly clogging passages. TERRIBLE STUFF around engines/fuel systems!

I haven't found much need for locktite on the boat but old British twins (motorcycles - not elderly English persons who happen to be twins) are a different matter. In their case the two primary compounds are locktight blue and antiseize. Without the first you will be scattering parts all along the road; without the second you will never get some of the aluminum assemblies apart without destroying the threads...of course, that's why they make helicoils! I will even admit to using locktite RED(!) on my Norton Commando. It's the only thing that will keep the rear view mirrors from unscrewing themselves as I ride! Lock washers, double nutting, etc don't work.
 
The truth is that there is an appropriate use for every fore mentioned product.Actually with the new fiber composite gaskets that have silicone outlines "all the diesel engine manufacturers us them'" sometimes only a bit of Permatex hightack is necessary, just to hold them in place for assembly.RTV silicone is a necessity in some cases but must be used sparingly and only where it can't cause damage by migrating to an area causing a problem.The good lord only knows how many gasoline engines are nearly gasket free because of the stuff,to say nothing of heavy duty gear drivelines in trucks,loaders etc.The same holds true for teflon tape,used properly by a professional it is fine for most applications, air,water,vacuum,etc, not involving lube oil. The trick with teflon tape is to NEVER use it on the first two lead threads when assembling,if you do... expect contamination.

When sealing pipe threads involving fuel or motor oil,I have found Rector Seal pipe dope to be impervious.On most seawater applications,"pump covers,gear coolers, heat exchangers,"I use vellumoid gaskets and #2 Permatex or 2 coats of Permatex hightack,otherwise a year or two later you will see the salt leaking by.For sealing bolt threads that enter waterways on engine blocks RTV is the ticket,also a very good substitute for locktite in areas prone to vibration.Once again,when assembling a transmission companion flange,apply it evenly and lightly to the splined area,preventing passive oil migration behind the nut and flat washer,the same goes for the intersecting angles between blocks and oil pans.

There aren't many bad sealants,just bad use of them.
 
Last edited:
Once again,when assembling a transmission companion flange,apply it evenly and lightly to the splined area,preventing passive oil migration behind the nut and flat washer...

I like that point! Its on that no one ever thinks of! ws
 

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