Galley Maid Head Pump Re-Plumination

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Some may recall I've mentioned the need to replace the aging 3/4" sea strainer to head pump hoses on Aslan. I wanted to also accomplish the eventual elimination of 2 of the three head intakes through this consolidation. Initially, my design called for a manifold and valves set-up. While that offers certain advantages, the space required is just too valuable to lose. My bow thruster limits access now to the younger and more flexible types.

So, I've come up with more of a daisy chain plan which I've posted for your target practicing enjoyment. Here goes:



One 3/4" line (blue) will run from a sea strainer to head pump #1 (master stateroom head) where it will be tee'd and continue forward and around the bow compartment to head pump #2 (Fwd. cabin head). Along the way, check valve #1 (red) will be installed to prevent the flushing of #1 from draining heads #'s 2 and 3.

The line continues and tee's into head pump #2 before terminating at #3. Again, a check valve, #2, (red) will be installed before reaching #3 to prevent #2 from flush draining #3.

Since the entire blue supply line will remain below the waterline as originally designed, all the head pumps should have an ample supply of water to maintain prime through the check valve operation.

The lack of isolation valves will not be an issue. Water to all toilets can be shut-off at the seacock. When it comes time to service a head pump, I can plug the fill line at #3 or simply connect #'s 1 and 3 with a double barb, thereby, isolating #2 for service, as an example. At present, I always insert a plug in the line when pulling a pump for service--below the waterline safety.

So in going in this direction, I've eliminated a lot of the cost with a minimal loss of convenience. This is more than made up by the space savings. I'll also gain some access by removing existing hoses. I have no plans to convert to freshwater flushing. But if Aslan's next owner does, the new set-up shouldn't offer any obstacles.

OK, there it is all tee'd up for you. Fire away. But, remember our forum's unofficial motto before posting:

This is not a place for folks with sensitive feelings​

Thx, Robert

 

[Cricket]

Couple of thoughts.
Is it possible to make the main supply hose a larger ID?
It might be better if the check valves are located between the main supply line and the pump, so on the pump side of the "T", to lower the restriction in the main supply line.
This would add 1 additional check valve.
What type and or material for the valves are you think about?

Essentially this is what we did except we have a manifold with check valves and then home runs to the pumps pulling out of the water tank.
Our original plan was to add another valve at the manifold to be able to use seawater but never did it since the freshwater worked so well.

 

[KPTIM]

Hi Robert,
Maybe I am missing something but I think you will need 3 check valves one at the input to each pump?

Pump #2 will still try to draw on pump #1 if there is any restriction on the sea strainer or pick up?
Pump #3 will still try to draw on pump #2 and pump #1?

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Hi Robert,
Maybe I am missing something but I think you will need 3 check valves one at the input to each pump?

Pump #2 will still try to draw on pump #1 if there is any restriction on the sea strainer or pick up?
Pump #3 will still try to draw on pump #2 and pump #1?

Exactly right, thanks.

Cricket, using Watts ACV1 1" check valves. Could go to 1" hose, but the input source is 3/4" and has always supplies generous flow.

 

[oscarvan]

Second having an unrestricted "stand pipe" from through hull to end, and putting the check valves on the pump side of the "laterals".....

In fact.... not sure how the layout is... but if you make the stand pipe larger diameter, could you supply the AC pump with it and cut out some more plumbing/through hull?

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Second having an unrestricted "stand pipe" from through hull to end, and putting the check valves on the pump side of the "laterals".....

In fact.... not sure how the layout is... but if you make the stand pipe larger diameter, could you supply the AC pump with it and cut out some more plumbing/through hull?

Nope. AC pump requires much larger source of water.

 

[Cricket]

That's a nice looking spring loaded non-metallic check valve, except for the 316 SS spring.
Thinking it will be hard for the 2nd and 3rd units to pull water thru multiple check valves if they're in the main supply line.
Does blue hose = silicone hose? haha.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

That's a nice looking spring loaded non-metallic check valve, except for the 316 SS spring.
Thinking it will be hard for the 2nd and 3rd units to pull water thru multiple check valves if they're in the main supply line.
Does blue hose = silicone hose? haha.

Well it claims 1/2 psi to overcome. I've used it before with nothing other than a foot or so of head in a 1" drain hose and it opens. Blue = water in exhaust hose with wire.

 

[Briankinley2004]

Let us know how it works. I may do mine if it does. My only concern would be one of the upstream pumps pulling enough water out of the downstream pumps to cause it to lose prime. I understand water will flow back in there but mine seem to get air locked easily. When I close the seacock to add Bromine tabs to the strainer and re-open I have one that usually needs to be bled to flush just in that process. Perhaps the suggestion of a larger supply hose with smaller ones at the T would help prevent any draw out of a pump. Definitely less friction loss in the larger hoses.

 

[davidwigler]

Put a ball valve next to each check valve for easy maintenance and troubleshooting.

 

[cenger]

I have the same head configuation as Robert. My #3 guest head needs a new stator. Naturally #3 is the hardest one to get to. Looking for some tips/suggestions on the best way to remove the hoses so I can get the pump out. I'd imagine they are are welded on there.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

I have the same head configuation as Robert. My #3 guest head needs a new stator. Naturally #3 is the hardest one to get to. Looking for some tips/suggestions on the best way to remove the hoses so I can get the pump out. I'd imagine they are are welded on there.

While it is possible to unbolt cone and pull the pump, a stuck waste hose may be indicative of a larger problem. There could be a damn of hardened material building up in the nipple. Nothing easy about this; it’ll require chipping. So you might unbolt to make pulling the waste end a little easier.

 

[jmooney]

I put one check valve in my bow head GM system, this is because it would loose prime when running the boat , GM recommends this. It was a pain to get it to work. I had to reduce the spring size to get it to open easily. It now works okay. A gate valve type might work better, although GM recommends the spring type. Good luck , with enough effort , anything can be overcome.

 

[Westfield 11]

I use a heat gun to soften the bond between hose and nipple.

 

[cenger]

I bought a Raz GM Reman Pump so I'm going to pull the old pump out and keep it as a spare. Looking forward to a S#*tty weekend. Pun intended.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

I bought a Raz GM Reman Pump so I'm going to pull the old pump out and keep it as a spare. Looking forward to a S#*tty weekend. Pun intended.

Fill it up with white vinegar overnight. That’ll help dissolve some of your concrete.

 

[cenger]

New pump is in toilet will flush but not refill with water. Both stators are new. Any thoughts 0n the problem?

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

New pump is in toilet will flush but not refill with water. Both stators are new. Any thoughts 0n the problem?

Have you loosened the priming plug and verified water at the pump?Did you lube the stator so it wouldn’t run dry?

 

[cenger]

I did silicon the stator and prime the pump. Return hose is not clogged

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

I did silicon the stator and prime the pump. Return hose is not clogged

Can’t think of any reason it isn’t filling if water flows freely at the priming plug. Worn out rotor? Was the stator/rotor fit snug? Tried it with a stub hose on the output?