Fuel/water senders

[skater]

Does anyone know what size socket is required to remove the fuel/water level indicators from the top of the tanks? Thanks

 

[MikeP]

2 3/8" Good Luck!

I have a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar and have never been able to remove the one on the aft fuel tank. Since the gauge works fine I just decided to let the boat win that particular battle. The other three (one fuel, two water) came out with hardly any effort.

Yes, I tried all the highly touted penetrants. Hopefully yours won't be quite so "permanently installed."

 

[jim rosenthal]

My water tank sender was welded in by corrosion and we had to cut it out with a cutoff wheel to get it out. The fuel tank senders tend to be easier esp with diesels- maybe less corrosion? We took it out because it no longer worked. You may end up having to do what we did. We broke up the inside of the gauge in order to cut it from inside the gauge, leaving the ring threads intact, cleaned them up and greased them, and put the new sender in. No combination of penetrants, heat, and muscle worked, even when we had a good grip on the hex part of the gauge.

 

[skater]

Thanks for the replys. I have the proper socket and will give it a try this weekend

 

[bobk]

Soak in Kroil, PB etc, heat then use an impact tool. Might help.

Bobk

 

[MikeP]

Let us know the results/what you ended up doing to get it off.

It seems they run the gamut from able to unscrew with hand pressure alone on the socket (one of mine) to Dr Jim having to cut it out with a saw!

 

[Angela]

It seems to me that one stuck tank gauge is standard equipment on these old Hatts. Mine is the aft water tank - NOTHING will get that unscrewed for me, so I let it be. The rest are a piece of cake to open.

 

[MikeP]

"Mine is the aft water tank - NOTHING will get that unscrewed for me, so I let it be."

That was the one on our boat that unscrewed by hand with the socket on it! But if it's not causing a problem, I totally agree with the "Let it Be" philosophy. Hey, worked well for the Beatles!

 

[GJH]

Water tank senders are a complete waste of time, energy and money. Get a Watercounter and know exactly how much water has come out of the tank.

 

[Angela]

Water tank senders are a complete waste of time, energy and money. Get a Watercounter and know exactly how much water has come out of the tank.

Amen. You are oh so right!

 

[magnawake]

My holding tank nut (3/4 light w/ the tube) is stuck. Tried every thing short of a grinder. The water tank gage came out with channel locks, real easy. Win some, lose some. It would be nice to know for sure what was in the holding tank though. Makes life interesting...the bad kinda way.

 

[Angela]

It would be nice to know for sure what was in the holding tank though.

Why? Do you have a problem with the tank? If not, why open it? Why do that unless you absolutely have to? Unfortunately, I know what's in there. I chose to (had to) open mine on a calm day (Christmas Day, 2008) when the fuel dock was closed (a "no wake/no sloshing" day) because I had just learned the that the dip tube was broken off at the top of the full, overflowing tank. Be careful wishing you want to "know what's in there" - nothing good is in there - pee, crap and tank baffles - there, mystery solved - it's a Pandora's Box. Mine was stuck some - Pascal came over and put some muscle on the pipe wrench that I couldn't budge and broke it free. Thank you, Pascal! But boy, did that put an awful stench throughout the boat! Suggestion - have a PVC pipe plug handy. That's what I did to cap that off until I finished rebuilding the dip tube and tank guts. After all, that hatch was in my stateroom and I had to sleep in there with that mess. Yick!

 

[magnawake]

I should have clarified "HOW much is in there". When I bought the boat almost two years ago, I was over whellemed with all the owners manuals and books. The 3/4 light was overlooked. Not for long. We overflowed the tank. The vent hose was blocked 100% so it cracked the brass plate on top of the tank. Stuff was coming out and running everywhere. Also I couldnt pump out because it wouldnt maintain a suction. I had to hand pump the water level down till I could dry the flange, then 5200 the flange back down. I cleared the vent hose. I dont want that to happen again. Your RIGHT, who cares whats in there. HOW MUCH, well that is important. I usually pump out everytime we leave the dock just to be sure.

 

[MikeP]

Did you correct the issue with the 3/4 full lights? I know a "real gauge" is better but I have found the 3/4 lights to be perfectly adequate for us and it's already there and fairly bulletproof.

 

[magnawake]

Did you correct the issue with the 3/4 full lights? I know a "real gauge" is better but I have found the 3/4 lights to be perfectly adequate for us and it's already there and fairly bulletproof.

No, I didnt. I like living on the edge. Just kidding ya know. The 3/4 actuator was totally rusted to pieces. I was going to buy a whole new actuator, tube and all but heck, I cant even remove the plug that the tubes goes through. It's stuck real good. I wish I had any kind of indication to show tank level. As for now, I just pump out when ever I get the chance.

 

[bobk]

Pate, if the tank is fiberglass and you can access one side, you can install a gauge on the outside with a self stick tape and it reads to a gauge with lights for different levels. Had it on the trawler and it worked fine. Snake River used to make these and recently I heard there is another source.

Bob

 

[magnawake]

Pate, if the tank is fiberglass and you can access one side, you can install a gauge on the outside with a self stick tape and it reads to a gauge with lights for different levels. Had it on the trawler and it worked fine. Snake River used to make these and recently I heard there is another source.

Bob

I dont think I can get to the sides of the tank. It seems to be built in between two stringers. Then a big fresh water pump sitting in the front. Maybe some other 43 people will chime in. I was thinking of going that route. It would be nice.

 

[Beckytek]

Magnawake, is it just the actuator that is bad? If so I have a pressure sensor that will replace it.
My actuator was unstable and I was never sure of the fluid level of my tank. I installed the sensor and now all's well again. I have extra ones on hand and you can have one if you like, (no charge). It is very sensitive and blinks at every pulse of the pump, and will stay on permanently once the tank is 3/4 full. Let me know if you want it. Ron

 

[Maynard Rupp]

You guys should stop trying to muscle those gage fittings. The old mechanics trick is what you need. Put the 2 3/8" socket and breaker bar on the gage sender. Do not blow a blood vessel trying to force your wrench to comply. Get either a good sized "ded blow " hammer or a 4 lb. hand sledge. Now put some medium heavy force on the breaker bar and hit the bar with the hammer. Several of those and you will own the gage unit. The hammer blow puts far more force on the wrench than just pulling. Actually if you have a helper, or grew an extra arm, you can put some heavy force on the bar then ask the helper to strike the bar. Wear gloves as the striking action may hurt your hands. Remember the old mechanics saying..."don't force it, just get a bigger hammer"

 

[magnawake]

Magnawake, is it just the actuator that is bad? If so I have a pressure sensor that will replace it.
My actuator was unstable and I was never sure of the fluid level of my tank. I installed the sensor and now all's well again. I have extra ones on hand and you can have one if you like, (no charge). It is very sensitive and blinks at every pulse of the pump, and will stay on permanently once the tank is 3/4 full. Let me know if you want it. Ron

My actuator was and is completely rusted off. It was just hanging there in a rusted up mess. I was going to replace it, then thought maybe the little tube that goes into the tank (through the nut) might be rusted off as well. Then the light wouldnt come on at the correct time. This is assuming the tube goes down into the tank 3/4 way down. I just wanted to remove the nut and inspect the tube before I spend the money on a new actuator. However, now with your offer I think i will move forward to try to fix this problem. Hopefully the tube will still work.