Freshwater Pump

[Capt Chad]

The wife called me into the boat the other night and said the galley sink wouldn't work. I went into the ER and hit the prime switch on the Galleymaid pump. I opened a few faucets and let it run. No problems. I did find a small leak on one hose coming off the pump. No problem, tightened a hose clamp and it was resolved. I went back to the boat 4 days later and had to repeat the process. When I go into the ER and check the pressure gauge it reads 20psi or so before I push the primer switch. I cant find any leaks and the tank is full. You guys have any idea what's going on?

 

[SEVEN]

Check the screens on the faucets to make sure they are not clogged. Run them without the screens and see if that resolves the issue.

 

[Capt Chad]

Seven, thanks I will check that tonight. But I am doubtful that's going to be it. I didn't have flow from any of the 4. I didn't try the showers. The pump (12v) has always made the DC lights flicker on the boat when it runs. Is that normal? I have seen it on many smaller boats with shurflo pumps and group 27 batteries but didn't know with 4 8d's and the galleymaid pump.

 

[SEVEN]

You should not have lights that dim when the pump kicks on. I wanted to start at the easiest point first. Do you have a direct hose hook up on the outside of the boat? If so you can try turning off the pump and running direct. If you get good flow then it's in the motor. Let me know.

 

[Capt Chad]

I do Seven, I'll check it out and let you know. Thanks for the help.

 

[PeterK]

Galley maid pumps do draw some serious amps. My head pumps (24 volt) dim my lights even with new batteries and a new charger. Had one of my pumps rebuilt while I waited at Raz a while back. Drew 9.8 amps at 24 volts. They had a record of the last time the pump had been serviced in 1998 and amp draw was the same. Well built pumps...

 

[Boatsb]

Maybe you need a bigger line for the head pumps. That's a lot of amperage but if a good sized bank and chargers is wired right shouldn't dim the lights much if at all.

 

[Reefgeorge]

Don't know about your pump but a Headhunter can be very fussy once it runs dry trying to complete purge the air. I have to open every faucet on the boat and repeat before I'm good to go.

What happens if you open a valve or relief right at the pump, does it flow? Does the pump run? Does the pump only run if you let the pressure drop?

George

 

[Capt Chad]

Seven, e erything flows fine with the dockside water hooked up. The pump will sometimes run fine and not draw down the lights. Then it will begin to cycle and draw the lights down while the pressure bounces up and down. I had my hand on the pump when it started to cycle. It never built any heat. Electrical connections are clean and tight. Pump? Pressure switch?

 

[ageless]

After priming the system did you monitor the gauge to see if the system was bleeding down?

 

[Capt Chad]

I did sit in the ER and watch the gauge for a few minutes. It appears to bobble a little but I never did really see it bleed down. I do from time to time hear the pump cycle 1 time and stop as if the pressure slowly bled down. Thinking back on the 2 times that I had no water from the faucets I can say this. 1. No water would come from the faucets. 2. I ASSUMED the pump had lost prime and pushed the lever on the pressure switch to the START position to re-prime. I then had water. 3. I never had to remove the primer plug and add water to the pump to have water flow again. 4. I really don't remember what the reading was on the gauge when I didn't have flow I just remember that the needle was not at the 25 PSI mark that it normally stays at. At this point I am thinking the pressure switch is going bad. What do you guys think?

 

[SEVEN]

Seven, e erything flows fine with the dockside water hooked up. The pump will sometimes run fine and not draw down the lights. Then it will begin to cycle and draw the lights down while the pressure bounces up and down. I had my hand on the pump when it started to cycle. It never built any heat. Electrical connections are clean and tight. Pump? Pressure switch?

Try the pressure switch first, it's less expensive and easy to switch out. If not send it to Raz Marine for a rebuild. Hope it's the switch.

 

[Reefgeorge]

Can you jump the switch to see if the pump starts?

George

 

[Capt Chad]

1 year later and I got the switch changed out. My lights don't flicker when the pump runs. If it holds prime all the time we're in good shape. If only I had got to it last year... Would have saved me 2 trips into the ER wearing a towel and covered in soap.

 

[SEVEN]

After priming the system did you monitor the gauge to see if the system was bleeding down?

X2. Is your pressure tank cycling at the same high and low pressure reading?

 

[SEVEN]

If you’re handy you can rebuild the pump. If not remove and send to Raz Marine. Great people to work with. They can either rebuild your pump or replace it with a rebuilt pump. They with also check out the pressure tank electrical.

 

[Capt Chad]

Everything seems to be fine after the install. Time will tell. No, I didn't see any bleed down and like I said the DC lights flickering while the water was running is gone. I will also add this, that system should never be used in the ER on a gas boat. I watched the system run without the square D cover on. The flash every time it made a connection was impressive.

 

[Capt Chad]

Well, it made it for 3 months... Its kicking the breaker and making a squealing noise. I didn't have time to look at it closely. It will pump water but it keeps running and squealing until it heats up. Bearings or stator?

 

[SEVEN]

Bearings

 

[carolinacoast]

adding a 110v shallow well pump reduces risk that admiral does not have water. we use that 99% of the time.