I put them in my boat.
Here's the basic deal:
1. You have to figure out how to mount the senders. They're BIG. My forward ones are on the crossbraces in front of the engines; the reverse are just forward on the gear mount, aft of the fuel filters. The mechanical on this - and getting the flow right so you don't trap air - are the big deal.
2. Electrically its not too bad. You need new tach senders if you have a glendinning, as you can't have any cable whip. Xintex makes some that work ok. Run a wire to the existing jumper block in the ER electrical panel, and leave the old senders in place.
3. At the bridge you will need to mount terminal blocks to terminate all of the wiring. You need two pushbutton resets and one switch to swap between flow and mpg for one instrument. Power is taken from the ignition side of each keyswitch on the bridge. The wiring up to the bridge is best handled with a SINGLE RUN of the Ancor shielded signal wire - it usually has to be ordered. Terminate the sender wiring in the engine room; I did it to terminal blocks mounted on the forward ER bulkhead.
I mounted the resets inside the flybridge cabinet doors and the mpg/flow switch is a pull style like the original Hatt switches for things like Nav lights and the blowers - that one just went into a hole I drilled in an appropriate place.
The instructions say its 20 man-hours of work. They're right - it is. If you pay someone its expensive and they may do a crap job of it. I did it right and it did take the whole 20 hours.
I'll shoot some pics if you'd like. I love mine now that they are installed, but I won't tell you it was trivial to do - it wasn't.
It is, however, definitely within the realm of being able to be done by a reasonably-technical owner, provided you pay attention to good marine practices.