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Flow Meters

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sadey
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Sadey

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
60' MOTOR YACHT (1987 - 1989)
Is it possible to install flow meters on these old DDs? I have 892s and would love to have them, very valuable info as Pascal has mentioned on another thread.
 
I have them on my 1979 DD 6-71N's - work great!
 
You can install them on anything, but it’s not an inexpensive proposition. You can find your sweet spots easily enough by running measured distances and refueling.

Not as cool as on demand numbers, but it is what it is.
 
Now that flo-scan is gone who makes flow meters now? All the electronic engines have as standard equipment.
 
Maretron, flow scans seemed to always be a problem.
 
You can install them on anything, but it’s not an inexpensive proposition. You can find your sweet spots easily enough by running measured distances and refueling.

Not as cool as on demand numbers, but it is what it is.

I feel that they are a requirement if you head offshore a lot. So far, my 12 yr old flowscans are still working. I hope they continue to do so.
 
I feel that they are a requirement if you head offshore a lot. So far, my 12 yr old flowscans are still working. I hope they continue to do so.
What does running offshore a lot have to do with GPH/MPG @ X RPM that you can calculate the old fashioned way as in before these newfangled contraptions showed up?

If anything, calculating fuel burn with full tanks and then refilling will yield worse numbers than you'll get when you're about to run out of fuel. I suppose if you develop some sort of problem that results in your using/losing fuel beyond the norm, it would alert you that you need to get back to shore quicker than you had planned. I would think that's where the standard 20% reserve would come into play, but it's a no-brainer for you since you already have them.
 
Talked with Lauderdale Speedometer and Compass yesterday. They said the company that took over FlowScan (they only left the marine market never the aviation market) thought they would have the old or as he put it the cheaper 8500 series available late april. Received a quote from FloScan inc. for $2450 per motor plus cost of fuel lines if needed for a NMEA2000 set up to use on my Garmin 7600s. Wonder how much the cheaper version is. Nice to have on the navs but I would prefer a separate dedicated gauge. I prefer two different scales of nav charts displayed.
 
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How much fuel would you have to save over the fill/run/measure/repeat method to break even with that $5K investment to let a computer do it for you?
 
Does anyone know of a technician that can dial-in my existing FloScan system? Even if only to verify that it is currently accurate. This would be from Ft Lauderdale going north as far as Annapolis.
 
Lauderdale Speedometer and Compass installs FlowScans my guess is they might calibrate. 954-522-4885
 
My guess is I’d recoup the cost in two seasons. Seeing how much I’m burning will keep me from lengthy hi-revs joy rides.
 
What does running offshore a lot have to do with GPH/MPG @ X RPM that you can calculate the old fashioned way as in before these newfangled contraptions showed up?

If anything, calculating fuel burn with full tanks and then refilling will yield worse numbers than you'll get when you're about to run out of fuel. I suppose if you develop some sort of problem that results in your using/losing fuel beyond the norm, it would alert you that you need to get back to shore quicker than you had planned. I would think that's where the standard 20% reserve would come into play, but it's a no-brainer for you since you already have them.

We run offshore 3 days at a time. We spend twice as much time trolling as running hard, so the gph varies quite a bit. I always have a pretty good idea of consumption, but it is very reassuring to be able to glance down and confirm the burn. They're also a good indicator of certain problems, like the time I had a fuel line break at the injector and my gph went from 20 to around 70 on that engine as fuel poured into the crankcase.

We also carry a 300 gal bladder, and they come in very handy in determining when I have enough space in my tanks to do the transfer. I feel that they are essential to the way I boat.
 
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I think I mentioned that contingency.

Point is, would you pay $5K for them if you didn’t already have them?

No wrong answer, just curious.
 
That’s the $5000 question.
 
What does running offshore a lot have to do with GPH/MPG @ X RPM that you can calculate the old fashioned way as in before these newfangled contraptions showed up?

If anything, calculating fuel burn with full tanks and then refilling will yield worse numbers than you'll get when you're about to run out of fuel. I suppose if you develop some sort of problem that results in your using/losing fuel beyond the norm, it would alert you that you need to get back to shore quicker than you had planned. I would think that's where the standard 20% reserve would come into play, but it's a no-brainer for you since you already have them.

Ain’t no gas stations at the canyons and it’s a long way home. When your laying offshore for a few days it’s easy to lose track of fuel usage. I’ve never had operation gauges their worthless anyway. I have ports and I stick the tanks with a graduated rod. Most accurate way to do it.
 
I understand what Randy is saying but there is so much more to it than that.

Everything from fuel load to water tank load, number of passengers and even minor trim tab adjustments effects your fuel burn.

Especially with Detroits, a 100 to RPM difference sometimes makes a 15 gallon per hour difference.

If Floscans were reasonably priced, say around 1K I think we would all have them. Diesel ain't cheap.
 
We run offshore 3 days at a time. We spend twice as much time trolling as running hard, so the gph varies quite a bit. I always have a pretty good idea of consumption, but it is very reassuring to be able to glance down and confirm the burn. They're also a good indicator of certain problems, like the time I had a fuel line break at the injector and my gph went from 20 to around 70 on that engine as fuel poured into the crankcase.

We also carry a 300 gal bladder, and they come in very handy in determining when I have enough space in my tanks to do the transfer. I feel that they are essential to the way I boat.

I had the same problem on a brand new 46HP apparently the jumper line was bad right from the factory. Filled the engine with fuel until the diluted mixture got sucked into the turbos and caught fire. Fortunately I learned from the one we lost and shut down the running engine and didn’t open the hatches before I pulled the Halon system. I don’t know wether the halon was better than the CO2 on the one that burned but it worked and we didn’t go swimming that day.
 
I don’t find load (passengers etc) affect fuel burn much based on running boats with flow meters. Full tanks a little bit not that much either unless the boat is poorly balanced

What does affect fuel burn/speed is depth and sea conditions even very mild. At planning speed there is roughly a 10% difference between running say on Biscayne bay or on the bank in the Bahamas vs running in open water even with just 2 to 3 footers. That’s no No current, same load on board, same wind.

5 GPH is roughly $13 an hour these days so if you even save just that then 350/400 hours will make the $5000 costs.

I agree about calibrating a dip stick, assuming they tanks are easy to reach. That’s fine on our boats with keel tanks but no option on boats where the tanks are say outboard of the engines. Another good tool for high tank are sight gauges.

Next refuel on my boat I m going to calibrate sticks for each tank by bringing them low and calibrating every 25 gallons.

Guessing fuel burn by topping off sound ls good but nowadays spilling a drop is a capital offense. How can you be sure your tank is full? I guess you can rig something to catch spills. Not ideal.
 

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