Female hone.....

[oscarvan]

So I got 4 nice SS swivel wheels for my Marquipt boarding stairs, alas the shaft of them is 7/8 and the tubes on the stairs are 13/16. They are worbled out a little at the end which is where I THOUGHT i had 7/8. So the new ones go in 1/4" and that's it.

I have three choices.

1 Buy the correct wheel$$$$
2 Make the tube larger by 1/16" Don't really want to do that as it is already not the thickest wall aluminium (hence the worbling).
3 Reduce the shaft size. Problem here is that it's peened on to the wheel assembly and there is no way I'm chucking it up in a lathe.

So what I am looking for is the female version of a honing tool. You know, the one we used to use to clean out brake cylinders.....

Anyone have and idea for something I can chuck up in a drill to cut down a SS shaft a hair?

 

[Jims43DC]

So I got 4 nice SS swivel wheels for my Marquipt boarding stairs, alas the shaft of them is 7/8 and the tubes on the stairs are 13/16. They are worbled out a little at the end which is where I THOUGHT i had 7/8. So the new ones go in 1/4" and that's it.

I have three choices.

1 Buy the correct wheel$$$$
2 Make the tube larger by 1/16" Don't really want to do that as it is already not the thickest wall aluminium (hence the worbling).
3 Reduce the shaft size. Problem here is that it's peened on to the wheel assembly and there is no way I'm chucking it up in a lathe.

So what I am looking for is the female version of a honing tool. You know, the one we used to use to clean out brake cylinders.....

Anyone have and idea for something I can chuck up in a drill to cut down a SS shaft a hair?

If the original holes are already oversize for a 1/4 inch in or more I would get a reamer or drill and take them to the 7/8 all the way thru. I think you would have less wobble that way, I would guess that both top and bottom are wallowed out equal amounts giving you an hourglass shape inside diameter. and aluminum is going to be much easier to drill out or ream then taking down SS a bit and you end up with a better fit. my .02

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

If the original holes are already oversize for a 1/4 inch in or more I would get a reamer or drill and take them to the 7/8 all the way thru. I think you would have less wobble that way, I would guess that both top and bottom are wallowed out equal amounts giving you an hourglass shape inside diameter. and aluminum is going to be much easier to drill out or ream then taking down SS a bit and you end up with a better fit. my .02

I've got some shotgun chamber hones that chuck up fine. A 12 gauge chamber hone would be under and inch.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Is there a O clip on the shaft that holds in the wheel assembly?
If so, get the correct parts.

If you have to move forward with what you have;
Vice down the new wheels and whittle down the shafts.
Long strips of grinding paper is what I would try first. I think you can taper the shaft to fit the expanded tube end.

There are hand held tools that could be used like a belt sander for a course grind but wrapping those strips and sanding the shaft like shinning shoes is what I'd try.
You got </=1/16" surface to finish off.

I don't think you want to remove any material from the alloy tubes.
Also, on final assembly, teflon gel for grease.


Oh, your going to need a few beers also. Not for you, wet sanding the final fit and to keep the peanut gallery quiet.

 

[oscarvan]

There is an O clip that holds the shaft in the tube. There is no final assembly..... The wheels go in when the stairs are in use, they are stowed away when the stairs are not.

Thank you all for your ideas.....

 

[Briankinley2004]

Rat tail file and a 12 pack of Natural Light

 

[Captain Ralph]

There is an O clip that holds the shaft in the tube. There is no final assembly..... The wheels go in when the stairs are in use, they are stowed away when the stairs are not.

Thank you all for your ideas.....

Get the correct parts.
I used to odder bread cart wheels / coasters.
Stainless, soft rubber wheels but cheap.

 

[oscarvan]

Get the correct parts.
I used to odder bread cart wheels / coasters.
Stainless, soft rubber wheels but cheap.

That's what these are. 7/8" though, not a hair less.

 

[Captain Ralph]

That's what these are. 7/8" though, not a hair less.

Wait, You have the correct size, then your tubes are distorted, not smaller.
You do not want to grind them out, press them out.
A correct sized drift or maul should help, with proper backing not to damage the welds.

There used to be proper fab shops that could expand tubes and pipes. My last witness was at an old fashion radiator shop (age showing again). Sadly, long ago and history.
Still I hope to be a metal fab shop somewhere that could straighten or replace your alloy tubes/pipes?

 

[Photolomy]

An external lapping tool, like shown in this link, is what I use.

https://www.americanlap.com/External Laps.htm

I understand that you can't cut the shaft in the lathe (because it isn't attached well enough to the wheel chassis). But if you think it can withstand a honing with a drill, then it should withstand a honing/lapping the other way around, in a lathe. But lapping or honing or filing will only take off a thousandth or so. It would be a lot of work. I think I would use a grinder. It doesn't sound like it has to be perfect.

 

[oscarvan]

Wait, You have the correct size, then your tubes are distorted, not smaller.
You do not want to grind them out, press them out.
A correct sized drift or maul should help, with proper backing not to damage the welds.

There used to be proper fab shops that could expand tubes and pipes. My last witness was at an old fashion radiator shop (age showing again). Sadly, long ago and history.
Still I hope to be a metal fab shop somewhere that could straighten or replace your alloy tubes/pipes?

I like the idea of stretching the tube. I can get some solid rod in the right size, put a slight bevel on it to help it down and give the tube some heat to make it more cooperative. I have a press I can use for this instead of the BFH. I like this idea a lot. Thanks for putting me on the right track.

 

[oscarvan]

An external lapping tool, like shown in this link, is what I use.

https://www.americanlap.com/External Laps.htm

I understand that you can't cut the shaft in the lathe (because it isn't attached well enough to the wheel chassis). But if you think it can withstand a honing with a drill, then it should withstand a honing/lapping the other way around, in a lathe. But lapping or honing or filing will only take off a thousandth or so. It would be a lot of work. I think I would use a grinder. It doesn't sound like it has to be perfect.

I can't take the shaft off the wheel, it is VERY well attached but appears peened over so I don't see a way to remove it. I was looking at the outside lapping tool, but I would have to do it by hand and you're right, it would take forever.

 

[SeaEric]

This seems like a case study for biting the bullet $$-wise and just buying the correct wheels to start with, no?

 

[SEVEN]

I took one wheel Assembly to Granger. They found the exact match. Less than 1/2 the cost. Perfect fit with no issues in 6 years.