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Exterior Brite work

Brian Degulis

Legendary Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2006
Messages
2,886
Hatteras Model
61' MOTOR YACHT (1980 - 1985)
Hello All

Does anyone have experience with Awlgrip Awlbrite plus Or interlux Interthane Plus

Any experience or tips would be apreciated

Brian Palmetto FL
 
I used Interlux Interthane. I had good conditions to do the work and 5 months to kill, so I really did it right, per Interluz's instructions. It required sanding to bare teak, Interlux Sealer, dry one day, Interlux Stain, dry one day and then 6 coats of finish, each drying one day in dry conditions and sanding with 260 sandpaper in between each coat plus wiping the sanding dust with a tack cloth made with Interlux #333 Brushing Liquid. (whew!) It made a beautiful deep finish on my teak handrails. It lasted 2 seasons in a fresh water environment. At the end of the first season it looked perfect. Then 5 months in heated dry storage and still perfect. Then, by September of the second season, every area exposed to direct sunlight on a daily basis had cracked, chipped, peeled or looked bad. The areas not exposed to direct sunlight still looked perfect.

I sanded it all off again and went with the 2 part "Bristol Finish". The 2 part stuff is not hard to use because of a 3 or 4 hour pot life. It went on easy, can be used over other old finishes if they're still good, can be recoated over itself without sanding in 3 hours and looks great, just like the Interlux did at first. I only have one month on it, so I can't tell yet.

My advice is to go with Bristol Finish.

Doug Shuman
 
I had a long time live aboard sailor tell me about Bristol and said it was the best he found over the years. That is what I am using on the fighting chair for this go around.
 
I also, am a Bristol Finish fan. They want 4 coats 2 hours apart. You can then sand after 24 hours and put on a final finish coat. I am told that the megayacht captains use 4 coats plus 4 more sanding between. They then top the whole thing with a coat of Awlgrip clear using brushing catalyst. The Awlgrip,(same stuff as the paint only clear), is very hard and resists scratches and dings. The Bristol has the correct amber varnish like color and the necessary UV inhibitors. I am sure that is a beautiful combination that should last as long as a good Awlgrip paint job on the hull.
 
Or....just use a good varnish and apply two maintenance coats every year. It doesn't take long and looks, well, just like varnish. :)
 
Varnish, Varnish, Varnish!!! It's WAY easier to deal with and looks better than anything. A couple of refresher coats every season and that's it. It's actually much easier to maintain ONCE IT"S correctly applied the first time than anything else. I like Epifanes but it probably doesn't matter at all.

I made the mistake initially of NOT using varnish and got the education that accompanies stripping off the other cr@p.
 
6 yrs ago I stripped the handrails to bare wood, put 2 coats of sealer on then 12 coats of varnish on over a 2 week period.

Since then I put two coats on in early May and two coats on in Oct. Can put the two coats on in one morning due to the heat we have here.

I use Interlux Schooner # 96, but my reason is a bit different. The PO had 4 unopen cans of it onboard when I bought the boat. :D

Washing the wood with soap and water once a week also helps maintain it.
 
I plan on using Awlspar varnish, one part varish, dries fast and builds up nice. You can do 3 or 4 coats a day.
JW
 
Depending upon where you are, I like regular varnish best. Prep and maintainance coats are the key. Sometimes simple really is better. I have yet to see any of the two part or other types of finishes last much longer or take less upkeep in our area.

The only brightwork left on my boat are the railings. They are orginal 1965 and have way too many seams where the varnish eventually fails, but I don't see me working any harder than those who are trying all of the more "advanced" types of finishes.

K
 
SKYCHENEY said:
Or....just use a good varnish and apply two maintenance coats every year. It doesn't take long and looks, well, just like varnish. :)

Dumb question of the day....What "varnish" would you recommend.

I've not done much (tried the Silkens stuff and hated it)...but spoke with Release on a recommendation to refinish our seat-back launcher and he said "send it to us to get it perfect ($$$)" so I figured I'd give it a shot and screw it up and then send it to them.

Rick
 
Any good varnish will do. I am currently using Captains Varnish by Petit, but others prefer the Epiphanes or the Interlux Schooner. I don't see much difference in the three. I do, however, like to heat the varnish a little up here in Michigan before I apply it. It lays down smoother and dries quicker that way. But it all depends on where you are, the outside temp, and humidity. You'll have to experiment a bit to see what works for you.
 
I am usually an Interlux guy, but I prefer the Petit Captains Varnish, too.

K
 
Re: Exterior Brite work/ Awlbrite Plus

Re: Awlbrite Plus, here is a decent URL for Jamestown Dist. One of many links but to the point

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co....do?pid=869&familyName=Awl-Brite+Plus+Varnish

I went crazy on re-varnishing my wood swim platform and posted earlier on this re: techniques and materials. In short, full sand to wood, rebuild wood (nicks, worn areas) as needed, two coats sealer, filler, then 8-10 coats Schooner varnish and finally 4-5 coats Awlbrite Plus. Much sanding (probably too much) between for perfect finish.

Comments: Awlbrite plus is a three part coating and is very hazardous...you absolutely must purchase the exactly correct masks and filters....you must not breath its fumes. However, a little goes a very long way compared to regular varnish and it sets up very rapidly and creates a durable, shiny finish. Their application instructions are very precise.

The U.S. Paint people that make/sell the Awlbrite promote/recommend first coating with many coats of Awlspar, a "normal", i.e. single part varnish. Then top coat with the Alwbrite Plus.

On some web sites, esp. Interlux they are adamantly opposed topping a single part varnish with multiple (2 or 3) part varnishes. Your choice, but although the multi-part varnish seems to "strike in" a little to the single part, the results are excellent.

In short I had good experience, but you must varnish in a fairly open area. I was varnishing inside during the winter and had considerable trouble with bubbling, fish-eye. Moving to a more airy, less humid area improved the results...i.e. outside or nearly so is best.
 
I have Awlbright over epoxy on my nameboards. After 2 years in the FL sun they look like new. After the epoxy, sprayed 7 coats of Awlbright. Dave
 

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