exhaust hose

[omecojh]

I'm concerned about the age of a rubber exhaust hose on my 1976 42-foot convertible.
Is there a rubber hose from the back of the muffler to the fiberglass exhaust tube?
It would be between the fuel tank and the hull, so maybe I need to cut the deck to change it.
Anyone encounter this issue? Thanks.

 

[Fish Tales]

I had a 41c. My exhaust left the muffler, laid in 2 plywood cradles between the fuel tank and the hull. Sagged a little between the cradles, but not too much to trap water, then double clamped on the exhaust pipes going though the transom. My exhaust flanges were brass, not fiberglass.

I could lay across the steering rams, behind the aft of the fuel tank, above the rudder posts and do a visual inspection with a flash light. Now these hoses never receive hot exhaust gases unless you blow a water pump and receive exhaust only. I never had an issue, but a friend did.

He had a backfire, and the force blew the port hose off of his exhaust flange. He had an older Egg Harbor with similar exhausts. But his were at the water line, so water started pouring in immediately. Almost sunk until I jumped over and shoved shop towels in the flange. That was a 4 inch hole pouring in water.

After that I learned how to inspect with a flashlight. I do the inspection on all of my boats.

Ironically, this is the same friend I lost years later when his Egg broke up off of Hatteras. I have written about this before here, so I will not go on.

Good luck,

Hope this helps.

Tim

 

[whoover]

Hello, on my 42 the only hose is in the engine room I believe. The pipe to the transom is fiberglass. You can crawl behind the fuel tanks to look at them, one of those smart phone cameras would be useful too.

Walt Hoover

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Hello, on my 42 the only hose is in the engine room I believe. The pipe to the transom is fiberglass. You can crawl behind the fuel tanks to look at them, one of those smart phone cameras would be useful too.

Walt Hoover

I'll bet there's a short hose between the transom and the muffler pipe to deal with stress cracking--could be wrong.

A 50 something went down at the dock a couple of years back. They backed her down hard going in and the water pressure blew the hose at the transom. They never knew it until the list began and by then it was way too late. It's hard to check those hoses and clamps for corrosion all the way around, but it's worth the effort.

 

[Pascal]

I m not familiar with the boat but i doubt th muffler is attached directly without a section of hose. Part of my repower we are uograding the exhaust to 8" and we are putting a section of nose there.

In any case, anyone with original 70s or even 80s vintage hose really should inspect them. Mines were completly collapsed.

 

[Fish Tales]

I replaced my engines in the 41c, twice, many years ago. There was rubber hose leaving the riser through the aft engine room bulkhead, into a cigar shaped muffler, rubber hose leaving the muffler supported by 2 plywood cradles, then clamped onto the exhaust passing through the transom. They were sandwiched pretty good between the tank and boat side, but we could get hands on above the rudder posts and assy.

Around the hose going through the engine room bulkhead, there was a 2 piece aluminum fairing to support the hose, and reduced the size of the hole to create a seal which was screwed into the aft bulkhead.

When time to remove all, we removed the hose clamps from the transom exhaust, and off of the engine risers, and the aluminum fairings. A sawsall helped enlarge the pass through on the engine room bulkhead for the larger diameter muffler, and the entire assembly passed forward into the engine room. After breaking down all components, we could pass them out of the engine room hatch.

When time for the new engines, we repeated the process but in reverse, and a AC company made me new fairings to cover the larger holes we introduced.

Now my exhaust hoses were wire reinforced, so a collapse was never visible.

However, after Russ' boat almost sank after his blew off, I check mine all of the time. That includes all hoses.

Hope this helps

Tim

 

[jim rosenthal]

What Tim said. It's not easy, but it's easier from the engine room.

 

[omecojh]

Thanks for all the comments. Mine are probably original 1976 so it's time to change out.
I was just wondering how to go about it.

 

[Cricket]

Don't forget changing to new hose clamps, they're 42 years old too. Make sure to get the good all SS ones.

 

[Frivakt]

I have a 38FBDC from 1974. Both hoses was changed in 1999. Last year I saw water dripping in the middle of one hose. Outside they looked wery good but the inside was a mess and was soon going to colapse. Im glad I choose to buy new hoses. 20 years is to long time.

 

[jrbrein]

Check for cracks in the fiberglass under where the hose clamps are. I found one that must have been leaking intermittently!

The hose and clamps appeared to have been changed but I have no records of this when I bought the boat a year and a half ago. Apparently it is easy to crack the fiberglass tubes from over zealous tightening of the hose clamps as has been discussed on this forum before.

Jon

 

[Pascal]

Ideally there should be a stainless steel sleeve inside the fiberglass tube where the hose is clamped. This is what we re doing in mine

 

[bigbill]

mr. johnny, centek makes the stainless sleeves and i do highly recommend them. i replaced my hoses and they did not have sleeves in the original setup. i couldn't get the leaks stopped because the fiberglass tubes were starting to crush. i installed the sleeves and have had no problem since. i used the trident silicone hose, more expensive but much easier to work with

 

[jrbrein]

mr. johnny, centek makes the stainless sleeves and i do highly recommend them. i replaced my hoses and they did not have sleeves in the original setup. i couldn't get the leaks stopped because the fiberglass tubes were starting to crush. i installed the sleeves and have had no problem since. i used the trident silicone hose, more expensive but much easier to work with

Big Bill,

Do you mean these:

http://www.centekindustries.com/product-category/fittings-connections/crush-sleeves/

According to the installation guide, they are inserted inside the fiberglass tube using 5200.

On my boat, the gap between the fiberglass tubes was only an 1" or so which leads me to believe that this was done in the factory 36 years ago. The rubber boot was in surprisingly good condition. I had to cut out a small section of fiberglass where the crack was and then I installed the new rubber boot. I tightened the hose clamps a little bit at a time...carefully! It hasn't leaked since.

I plan on replacing the 3 other joints that I found on my boat with silicone hose as well with these sleeves!

Thanks for the information Big Bill!

Jon

 

[Pascal]

The taiwan built boat i used run didnt have the crush sleeves in the collectors just past the risers where the 12" silicon joint were clamped. All 4 (2 per engine) always leaked, had to repair the cracked glass on tow of them at some point.

 

[omecojh]

Thanks for the info on the sleeves.
I do plan to use silicone hose.

 

[jrbrein]

The taiwan built boat i used run didnt have the crush sleeves in the collectors just past the risers where the 12" silicon joint were clamped. All 4 (2 per engine) always leaked, had to repair the cracked glass on tow of them at some point.

Pascal,

I never knew about what a crush sleeve was until you mentioned them.

Before that I would have figured they were something my teenage daughters were all excited about some boy and his shirt!

Jon

 

[Pascal]

I didn't used the name till somebody mentioned it. . I called them inserts.

 

[krush]

On the 41c there is plenty of room to get outside of the fuel tanks and inspect the exhaust.....if one is flexible and under 200lbs lol.

On thing I will never understand on any boat is having the exhaust in the transom exist at or below the water line. Think of all the boats that wouldn't have sunk if the exhaust discharge was just a few inches higher.

These "mufflers" have a built in swing check valve, but they don't muffle as much as I'd like. Maybe one day I'll replace them. Any ideas?

 

[barebone]

I replaced my engines in the 41c, twice, many years ago. There was rubber hose leaving the riser through the aft engine room bulkhead, into a cigar shaped muffler, rubber hose leaving the muffler supported by 2 plywood cradles, then clamped onto the exhaust passing through the transom. They were sandwiched pretty good between the tank and boat side, but we could get hands on above the rudder posts and assy.

Around the hose going through the engine room bulkhead, there was a 2 piece aluminum fairing to support the hose, and reduced the size of the hole to create a seal which was screwed into the aft bulkhead.

When time to remove all, we removed the hose clamps from the transom exhaust, and off of the engine risers, and the aluminum fairings. A sawsall helped enlarge the pass through on the engine room bulkhead for the larger diameter muffler, and the entire assembly passed forward into the engine room. After breaking down all components, we could pass them out of the engine room hatch.

When time for the new engines, we repeated the process but in reverse, and a AC company made me new fairings to cover the larger holes we introduced.

Now my exhaust hoses were wire reinforced, so a collapse was never visible.

However, after Russ' boat almost sank after his blew off, I check mine all of the time. That includes all hoses.

Hope this helps

Tim

Tim, What type off mufflers did you put on on your 41C. I need to replace my originals as one is cracking. I still am running the 8V53Ns so I don't need an upgrade but a bit quieter would be nice.

Jim
1968 41' Mermaid